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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

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  1. Saenek

    Saenek Well-Known Member

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  2. mogili222

    mogili222 Well-Known Member

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    @Saenek That is actually a very good deal. Just know that the leather is chromexcel and not dress leather and the boots are also unlined.
     
    Last edited: Nov 21, 2014
  3. spurs61

    spurs61 Well-Known Member

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    @jrosenthal and @linafelt - I think I may give the 269 sole a whirl on this pair. I like the look of it and, since this pair won't be a chore boot, I think the flatter vibram will be OK.
     
  4. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    They seem to make the whole lower a slimmer unit which makes it far easier to break in (same day). Plus the 269 seems to wear like iron. My mini lugs look like I've been wearing them for years just after a few weeks/months, and the 269 if washed off would look practically new.

    James
     
  5. aaronjared

    aaronjared Active Member

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    The 269 sole is the one I'm going to have put on my natural CXL bounty hunters when I take off the commando mini lug.
     
  6. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    I don't know how easy or $$ that retro fit would be. The mini lug is set Into a second midsole so they would need to rip the whole second sole off to do the single 269, but anything can be done at a price.
    The 269 is deceptive looking in pics. It looks like a plain smooth sole but it actually has little micro-ridges running horizontally which are flexy when you push on them. It actually gives some cushion when you walk and they really grip on highly polished or wet floors (I look ridiculous trying to pull a cart of equipment wearing my leather soled 1k's on a marble floor but the 269 grips like a running shoe). I haven't had them for the winter yet so can't speak to their abilities in light snow but I'm eager to see how those little micro-ridges do on ice...they will either be incredible or an immediate trip to the emergency room.

    James
     
    Last edited: Nov 22, 2014
  7. spurs61

    spurs61 Well-Known Member

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    Tried to get some better photos:

    My black CXL semi dress after 10 months or so ...

    [​IMG]

    My natural CXL Bounty Hunters after about a month ...

    [​IMG]
     
  8. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    Both aging beautifully-glad to see them kept tidy. Those CXL's are really taking on a nice patina, still would be sharp with jacket and trousers. :) James
     
  9. tmchow

    tmchow Well-Known Member

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    The amount of leathers is absolutely staggering and still shocked at how little information there is on White's and Bakers site comparing them.

    I'm still in research mode on these so you'll see more questions from me. I'm trying to read as much as I can but I cant promise to not ask a questions that's been answered 1028 posts back :)

    I'm planning on wearing these completely for non-work... Just casually with jeans.

    As such, I want an easy to break in boot and a reasonably light weight, flexible leather. I know leather will break in over time but hey, if it's easier from the start that's a plus in my book ;)

    I'm likely looking for a black pair with natural or brown sole since I already have a brown pair of wolverines.

    Are any of the leathers offered lighter weight, softer and thus easier to break in? The ones I've read about are the CXL, horsehide, distressed and black dress. The bull hide seems like it's super glossy/shiny and if that's the case, it's not in contention.

    Anyway as, enlighten me :)
     
  10. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    My water buffalo is very thin and flexible with great graining and subtle texture (bull hide is very pronounces texture). No break in time on those, they were comfortable out or the box and I am a big sissy when it come to foot/leg pain. The dress leathers are also fairly pliable but are stiffer, so more break in. Haven't felt the French calf but I hear that is also very soft.

    James
     
  11. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys, need advise from the collective so please bear with me as you have all heard some of this whining before:

    I have been living with my 2 pairs of SD's for over 2 months on the black pair which were 1/2 size too large and sent back for the heel liner, and 3 weeks on my tan boots. Both pairs "fit" my feet fine for last shape and toe room (albeit the black ones are roomy so thicker socks are in order but the tan ones are very snug so thin socks only in those) and I have logged over 50-75 miles in each pair (according to my iPhone pedometer). I have worked over 1/2 dozen 12-16 hour days in each pair so I'm not doing hour at a time.
    Unlike my retro oxfords which are a perfect fit and don't slip in the heel (due to the cup at the top of the counter to hold the heel down) these boots are very stiff in the midsole and ankles and because the counter is strait sided and not cupped like the oxfords, which allows my heels to slip up significantly due to the stiff midsole, they are aggravating my Achilles tendinitis and plantar fasciitis whereas neither of my retro oxfords do (those in fact quell my issues to non existence). Lacing them tighter to keep the heels down only causes other problems at the shins and front of my ankles where the top trim rings grind into my flesh through the tongue all day and the front laces cut at the top of my ankles as the leather flexes- every step becomes more aggravating (like Chinese water torture) and by the end of the day I am hobbling.

    I don't want to cut bait on these boots and want to give them their time to break in and form to my feet, but the experience has been agonizing by days end, and I find myself avoiding them when I get dressed in the morning.
    What are the tricks for breaking these in faster other than just wearing them and sucking it up? I have a jar of obernaufs which I know will soften leather but I don't want to change the color of the tan boots (the Brit tan is stunning) and I don't want to make either pair greasy (will it make dress leather greasy after it's wiped off??) as I want to keep them polished with a sateen shine.

    I know with hiking boots we used to soak them and wear them wet to quicken the break in, oil, ball and string for baseball gloves-what are the tricks for these? The midsole is the biggest hurdle I think. I have been tempted to just put the toe to the floor and cram down on them from the heel to bend the shit out of them but don't know if that will damage the uppers or arch support system as there will be no form in the shoe to keep things aligned (like a foot while it's flexing).

    Help please!! I am too old and cranky for foot/ankle pain, but young for ugly orthopedic Velcro shoes and my line of work is not kind to slipper socks.

    James
     
  12. misterjuiceman

    misterjuiceman Well-Known Member

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    Shoes should never be agonizing to break in (yes, I know about Red Wings, and no, I don't care). It sounds like you're forcing a square peg in a round hole. White's isn' doing bespoke boots—you send in a trace, and they do their best to fit you to one of their lasts. Sometimes it just won't work for you. I'd get rid of them.

    With that said, you could probably dunk the whole shoe in water and hasten the process, but that could do more harm to the boot than not.
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2014
  13. spurs61

    spurs61 Well-Known Member

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    My distressed smooth BH after a few wears but in some challenging conditions - standing in water and mud watching a rain-swept football game, a day of trudging around cold, damp soccer fields, and doing some lawn clean up. The smooth distressed leather is tough as nails but a bit hard to break in - still I'm liking these a lot.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. spurs61

    spurs61 Well-Known Member

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  15. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    I used the boot oil (I have both the LP and oil) on the black ones and it seemed to sit on the surface and not soak in. Perhaps I need to strip them of whatever wax coat they used at the factory or Baker's before they were shipped. The did stressed leathers I believe are an oil tanned so would take more oil I would think.
    James
     
  16. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    On the stripping of wax, I asked someone who does shoe/boots repair and they said to use clear ammonia to strip the wax off before conditioning. That seemed a bit harsh to me so I looked it up and everything on the web so no ammonia ever-ever-ever!!!

    Of course I can order the very expensive Saphir Reno-mat and people on this forum have said saddle soap, but some say saddle soap won't take all the wax off. Too many theories and practices to actually ever get a "correct" answer.

    James
     
  17. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    @misterjuiceman, I thought the same thing at first but the "fit" is perfect everywhere but the loose heel, and I am assuming that when the midsole becomes more compliant and the uppers get more flexible, the slip won't be as extreme at all and lacing tighter to minimize won't hurt or cut in as much, I'm just trying the hasten the process a little more and dunking in water brings to mind midsoles swelling and warping and all kinds horrific images.

    I have no objection to using LP on my black boots as long as I can get them to not be greasy (I used it on oil tanned boots before and they were always greasy thereafter regardless of how much heat or time or wiping I did). If anyone here has a pic of British tan after Obernaufs LP when the color mellowed back, in good sun lighting, I would love to see the effects. When I used it in those oil tanned Thorogood's I had, it turned them from a lovely blonde to a dark tobacco....several days after the poo brown color it originally turned them started to dissipate. I was so upset when I first did them and they looked like shit...literally!

    James
     
  18. CityofChamps

    CityofChamps Well-Known Member

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    @jrosenthal
    All of this stuff seems so subjective,and sometimes people are looking for affermation and not information, but here is what worked for me.

    The break in on my brown oil tan farmer ranchers was about 100 hrs before they felt great. I used Bick 4 from Bickmore to condition and soften the leather and it did help. Bick 4 will not darken the color, leaves no residue, and I applied it to both outside and inside of the boots on the tongue and hot spots.

    I also loosened the laces instead of tighten them; not sloppy lose, but tightened normal then backed off a bit. It helped lessen the ankle bite and the natural flex of my foot throughout the day broke them in where needed.

    I'm sure more experienced guys have there own methods, but that was what worked for me.
     
  19. spurs61

    spurs61 Well-Known Member

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  20. spurs61

    spurs61 Well-Known Member

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