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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

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  1. chicken1616

    chicken1616 Well-Known Member

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    Sep 28, 2014
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    Colorado
    Here are some really gratuitous pictures of my Hathorn by White's Bullhide Rancher Pull ons in Red Dog and B width, and my SJ #38 Swing Last in Red Dog, lowered block heel and black lining. Both have 700 soles. The pics are gratuitous so I can post this link to my new boots listings on e-bay.[​IMG]

    http://www.ebay.com/sch/bigj_16/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_ipg=&_from=

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  2. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    Love that red dog swing lasted! I keep coming back to that color despite not wanting "red" shoes but it so reminds me of my Doc oxblood 1460's I loved back in the day...I always got compliments on the color for those even from the most conservatively dressed people. Folks do love bold colored shoes. James
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  3. ericlp

    ericlp Member

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    Definitely.

    Haven't ordered yet, but yeah, I plan to go through Baker's and do the whole sizing back-and-forth. Seems like it'll be worth it to get the perfect fit. That'll be a painful wait though!
     
  4. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    Totally worth it, and as I mentioned earlier, don't talk size or lasts until he has your tracings and measurements in front of him, then discuss where "normal" boots cause issues for you if any (like heel slip or pinky toe rub or arch pain or top of foot lace rubbing, etc), and he can steer you towards the right lasts for your feet.

    James
     
  5. chicken1616

    chicken1616 Well-Known Member

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    Colorado
    White's is having an Oxford bloodbath on thier e-bay site
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  6. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    Must have been all the one that I rejected-lol!!

    They are all smaller sizes, so I assume they were made for an Asian dealer and the order fell through. There were a few 8.5'a and 9's in there which is 9,5-10's on the Brannock so someone needs to jump on some of these. Best dress shoes you will ever own!

    James
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  7. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    So never discount the benefits of a thick sock.

    I got my modified 11E black SD's back yesterday with the heel liner. I wore them around immediately after wearing my perfectly fitting 10.5E retro oxfords with my argyle Smartwool dress socks and they were still loose and sloppy. I was very disheartened and put them back in the box.
    This morning the temp snapped down into the 20's so I put on my mid-weight Smartwool hiking socks and my still not broken in Brit tan 10.5E SD's and they tight as hell, so off the hiking socks went and back to dress socks.
    Tonight I came home, put the mid-weight hiking socks back on with my black 11E SD's and what do you know, they fit very well, still roomy but not sloppy now. Still more heel slip than I want but if I used an even thicker sock (like the Smartwool heavy trecking or snowboarding socks) these would probably snug up fine.
    So since I do need a decent cold weather boot, these may just get relegated to a treatment of Obernaufs and be used for winter duty considering they do have the mini-lug sole and the heavy smartwool's are like a boot liner.
    A silver lining I guess.

    James
     
  8. chicken1616

    chicken1616 Well-Known Member

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    Colorado
    That is why I am intrigued when people say thief boots are too big. I can understand too small. You can make a big difference with socks and in-soles. Kyle told me he in-soles his boots too. If you lace them super tight with the RIGHT in-sole, there's nothing like it. As it says on Nick's website, there's no such thing as too tight.
     
  9. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    When your feet go numb, that's too tight.

    James
     
  10. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    I agree that sometimes an insole or heavier sock can make all the difference, but I have found that many times those are just band-aids for an improper fit, that's what I've done my whole life. I have a shelf full of heel cups, orthodic insoles, tongue and heel pads, half insole, full Insoles, you name it. My retro oxfords are the first shoes I have ever worn that are an absolute perfect fit-no need for anything at all. The SD on swing last is a close fit but still loose in the heel for me (so the old tricks come out, I have Pedag heel liners in both above the heel below the ankle to hold the heel down and it sort of works). It does all come down to the shape of the last.
    Back in the day shoe stores used to stock not only different widths, but true combination lasts. I have seen vintage Hanvover's and Florsheim's with E/B combi last or D/AA...those days are gone.

    James
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2014
  11. climbinglife

    climbinglife Well-Known Member

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    LMAO, this is SO true!
     
  12. meso

    meso Well-Known Member

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    Those retro oxfords are nice. I wouldn't mind a second pair. Sadly none in my size.
     
  13. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, best fit for my foot (wide front-narrow heel) of any white's. Wish they did a split/ Norwegian toe and a brogue on that last, then I would have all of my favorite dress shoes back. Redwing does a great moc toe oxford and Norwegian toed tank boot but unfortunately, fit like redwing heritage.

    James
     
  14. spurs61

    spurs61 Well-Known Member

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    So, Mrs. Spurs61 has intimated that she might consider getting me a xmas gift of boots "if that's what I really want." Well, of course it is ...

    So, to round out my collection, I'm considering a brown horsehide SD or perhaps a brown dress SD to be a more "dress up" (thought not formal) work shoe that would work with a variety of khakis but also go well with jeans. From photos on this site and elsewhere, I like the aesthetics of the brown horsehide. The brown dress is nice too, but I wonder if it might be too close in hue to my black CXL SD (which as they age look nicer and nicer). As well, I'm debating the single celastic vs. noncelastic toe issue (I have both and like them for different reasons). I'm also wondering if a Vibram half comp sole might look a little dressier than my favored Vibram 430 sole, while providing some increased protection against the elements. I also am debating the color of the eyes - I like brass but also antique. Anyone want to venture an opinion?
     
  15. Gio87

    Gio87 New Member

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    Aug 23, 2014
    If you want a delivery from Santa you might want to hustle on picking the build. Just put my "Wife approved" order in with Kyle at Bakers. He told me they were getting jammed up and could be 6 weeks or so on SDs...
     
  16. spurs61

    spurs61 Well-Known Member

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  17. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    If it were me, and wanted a boot that could go either way (dress up or down), which is my life, I would opt for dress brown (which is a rich brown with slight reddish undertone) lined in cream, close trim, celastic toe to keep the shape, medallion cap toe (touch of class), standard height block heel, antique eyes, and full vibram 700 with dark brown trim color....just happens to be the exact make up of the oxford I am wearing as I write this ;/).

    James
     
  18. broken_oracle

    broken_oracle Well-Known Member

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    Great Lakes
    FYI, I'll be at 9 weeks this Friday; Baker's said "Maybe next week" before they get the boots from the factory, inspect them & ship. Six weeks sounds optimistic to me
     
  19. chicken1616

    chicken1616 Well-Known Member

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    Colorado
    I know what you're saying, Jimbo, but this is my point(which I probably made a poor job of getting across):

    I was trying, like yourself, to make modern shoes work by using different inserts, to varying degrees of satisfaction. The problem is that most modern shoe manufacturers have tried to make shoes to "fit" a lot different kinds of feet with one type of last. They did away with any arch support from the shoe itself, and add "support" by putting in a cheap cushioned insert. Because this insert is not rigid, it kind of conforms to almost anything. The problem is, it is just basically going along for the ride. I have a pair of older Tony Lama boots I got for Christmas in the '80's, that were built with peg and nail construction, and have a very supportive leather arch. A lot of quality older shoes are built like this. Take a look at all these modern production shoes. Even the Iron Rangers I just sold. Completely flat inside. So I was trying to add arch support, even with rigid type insoles, but for someone that's pushing 260, that's not optimal.
    What I am doing with the White's Arch-Ease(TM), is supplementing that serious, rigid arch support with non-rigid insoles. The support is done by the Arch-Ease(TM) (I like typing that!), the insole is filling everything in. Your foot shape and size changes throughout the day, and also from day to day, depending on temperature, socks, weight bearing, etc. There is no way the same shoe inside is going to completely adapt to that. If you take an 8" high, high arch boot, throw in the right kind of insert, lock that motherf'r down, like it tells you to on Nick's website FAQ, and you'll know what I mean. With the 5" SD's(which I own), and probably your oxfords, also, you can't lock them down as much, which diminishes the support a little. So, we're probably saying the same thing, just in a different way.
     
    Last edited: Nov 20, 2014
  20. linafelt

    linafelt Well-Known Member

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    I vote dress brown with brass eyelets, and maybe the 269 sole. Toe cap optional.
     

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