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Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by Whacky, Jan 15, 2011.

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  1. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    Ordering a custom build and returning them doesn't seem right to me, but Kyle said they would "work with me" if that arose. I guess I'm just used to being screwed once I've worn them......$1.25k lesson learned from my last Alden purchases. I appreciate you all humoring me with this.

    James
     
  2. climbinglife

    climbinglife Well-Known Member

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    This is where ordering from Bakers is key. They guarantee fit and Kyle is awesome so they WILL take care of you if there is problem, trust me.
     
  3. LouieBailie

    LouieBailie Well-Known Member

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    "I am trying on for fit now fit snugly across the vamp and middle of the foot, but not too tight, and the toe box is perfect when walking"

    There is an attachment made for the Ultra 80 machines that attaches to the top of the front last for that exact problem and using it cures the "snugness".
     
  4. LouieBailie

    LouieBailie Well-Known Member

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    Take them to Phillip.
     
  5. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    The first pair of Alden's (Norweigan toe bluchers) I was able to sell to my boss for exactly what I paid as he has a "normal" shaped foot and loved them, so I didn't lose anything. On the 975's, unless Philp can whack and inch of length off the front, then reshape the toe box, they're just an occasional shoe or I'll sell them at a huge loss. I sadly have to come to terms that a pair of shell long wing Alden's are just not going to be in my life.
     
  6. Midguardian

    Midguardian Member

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    Thanks Daizawaguy. That may help answer my question. I may have to switch leather combos, but I dig that look on the toe.
     
  7. CityofChamps

    CityofChamps Well-Known Member

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    Well, I have about 100 hours or so on my ranchers and I think I've come to some conclusions. I knew going in that I was buying a boot that was about a 1/2 size too big (I think now maybe a full size), but for the price I was paying I couldn't pass them up.

    One of the things I wasn't counting on was how long they would take to break in and until that, you really can't judge their fit. Secondly, I underestimated the quality, thinking that the boot would give more.

    My problem is that my foot sits too far back in the boot and that it puts pressure on the outside of my foot where it tapers from the ball to the heel. Is been said here that the boot won't fit if your foot doesn't sit right in the boot and this is true. The arch doesn't bother me, it's the sides of my feet that hurt. Since the boots are 8", there is no loose or sloppy feel.

    My point, what are my options? Sell them (size 8), take a small hit, and try again? Put them on a stretching machine? Any helpful advice is appreciated. Thanks
     
  8. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    I can't speak with authority and am new to this group, but my most recent education in fit with the help of Kyle at baker's made me realize that I never knew my fit. I always assumed I was a D width, and in some shoes I am, but in the white's I was fitted in an E-in a very generous last. It sounds like your issue isn't the length but the width of the boot. That said, yes they can be "stretched" but you probably will only gain 1/8" or less IME, and I always hate the way shoes that have been stretched took, they lose their shape a bit, and the sides of the foot bugle out over the sole.

    I would sell them and start fresh with a correct fitting pair, and I would do the process with Baker's and just choke down the cost of new. After years of trying to save a few pennies buying on eBay or getting a "deal" that is close in size, I realize I have thrown away thousands of dollars on shoes that I no longer own, or are sitting in a pile waiting to be put on eBay.

    James
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
  9. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Well-Known Member

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    Hear hear! One good pair is worth ten bad ones. Isn't it the same with all things - shoes, jeans, shirts - one or two get 80% of the wear, and the others just lie there...or am I the odd one out?
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
  10. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    ....or suits and sport coats.....I finally realized several years ago I had been buying too long and too large. I finally had a proper fitting and was shocked at how well a proper fitting suit fits, perfect drape, no bunching, absolute freedom of movement, feels like wearing pajamas. I buy vintage sport coats all the time (have for 30 years) but now know my exact measurement for perfect fit so can be very discriminating.
    James
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
  11. chiliinabowl

    chiliinabowl Member

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    I have a question about the retro oxfords (not related to your questions). I'm trying to order a pair SD that will have a similar look, only in a boot of course. I want something a little more formal to wear with a suit but I can't justify paying the extra $$ just to have it in shoe form. With that in mind, I was thinking if I lowered and blocked the heel, selected a close trim, and added a medallion toe cap, I would have something close to the look of the retro oxford or even closer to an Alden Edmonds type boot. Does that sound reasonable to anyone or am I way off? I wear a custom size combo in White's (10 E left, 9 EE right) and I know they fit me so I would prefer to stick with them.
     
  12. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    That is exactly what I am going after as well. I am not looking to go logging in my White's or make a fashion statement, for me it's about fit and they seem to have the last for my foot.
    Since I go between work site and office all day and wear wool trousers and sport jacket for work, I need a shoe/boot that can do double duty.
    The configuration I was thinking about for this purpose, and have discussed with Kyle is basically what you are thinking. What makes the oxford that I am trying dressier is the block heel (which I would lower) and the black edge trim. I personally like dark brown edge trim on black oxford (my wolverines are that), but black trim would give it a more formal look. I am planning to go with black dress leather as it should keep a nice shine and not "patina" like Chromexcel does...a stunning look as it ages, but not with trousers and coat.

    James
     
  13. daizawaguy

    daizawaguy Well-Known Member

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    Tokyo
    Check out post 1453 on page 97 before ordering - make sure you want the lowered block heel look. I thought about it several times, but somehow the balance is lost. The lowered slant heel though keeps the Whites-look. Very much a personal taste, but I imagine the regret factor is high.
     
  14. chiliinabowl

    chiliinabowl Member

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    Thanks for the feedback. You might be right about the color. I was hoping to get the burgundy chromexcel but perhaps they won't "shine up" very well.

    I'm still undecided about the heel too, I'll check out the referenced post. I have a slant heel on my bounty hunters and they just seem so bootish. Granted a lowered heel on a SD would be quite a bit lower.
     
  15. meso

    meso Well-Known Member

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    Long Beach, CA
    

    I have a pair of white's oxfords coming with a block heel, can take pics. Don't really like the slant heel on the oxfords -- looks odd to me. Second the opinion about not getting them lowered. I'm 6'3 so the large-ish heel doesn't seem out of scale or anything.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
  16. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    The Chromexcel ages like a rub-off boot and takes on a lovely patina, great with jeans but makes for a more casual appearance as it ages (I have 2 pairs of Wolverine 1k's in Chromexcel). The pics of burgundy #8 are stunning but I know from personal experience that even with regular care they don't stay that "pretty". I too am looking at at burgundy (need a black and earth tone pair) and the burgundy French calf looks very appealing and would take regular polish and shine, but pics I have seen are all over the map for color between bright red and dark plumb. Would love to see a pair in the burgundy calf with a Pantone chart (or 18% grey card) so we could color balance the photo and actually see true color.

    I do love the look of the white's heel but agree it does look "bootish" which is fine for a semi-dressy pair of shoes. The block heel would make it look more formal. My problem with the block heel (as can be seen in the pics I posted of said oxford) is not so much he hight (which is too tall for that oxford when you see them in the flesh) but the shelf. When I mentioned it to Kyle he immediately knew what I was talking about and said they have a great in house guy who can shave it down to be more in shape with the shoe/boot.

    James
     
  17. jrosenthal

    jrosenthal Well-Known Member

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    And I read a post way back in this thread where someone said "work" boots are not for dress and actually made some nasty comments about it. I have worn boots for years (although I'll fitting) with sport coat and trousers and have always garnered compliments.
    The retro oxford is really a shortened semi-dress on a different last, and as can be seen in my pics, went very well with wool trousers.
    James
     
  18. chiliinabowl

    chiliinabowl Member

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    Yes my BHs are a british tan/classic brown combo (both Chromexcel leathers) and they look very casual - the standard trim plays a part in the casual nature as well. Looking over old posts I found that Bl@ster posted many SD boots, all with lowered heels, in both blocked and curved. At one point he had the exact boots I am describing in burgundy, but he sold them. Does that french calf need a liner? I'm in South Carolina so I'm looking for the most breathable option.
     
  19. LouieBailie

    LouieBailie Well-Known Member

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    Jul 28, 2013
    two things:

    "I buy vintage sport coats all the time (have for 30 years) but now know my exact measurement for perfect fit so can be very discriminating."

    That is the key for buying anything 'KNOW' what fits and know what you can alter to fit. I bought a tool to alter shoes boots to 1/8th of an inch or 1/16 on each side and that is a little more than the thickness of the leather on each side. It takes a real critical eye to even "see" they have been altered.

    The Ultra 80 pays for itself by allowing me the opportunity to get high end items for very low pricing and altering them to fit me, just like altering a suite or jacket.

    Just one pair of ultra high end shoes or boots purchased at 10-15% of cost and it pays for itself. A person with 2 different size feet could use this tool on every purchase.

    I buy professional tools to save me money, by using them properly, and they do...

    Next:

    The heel height on White's, Nicks, or Wesco boots/shoes is dictated by the high arch supports built into them, they are made to have the ball of the foot fall forward like you feet naturally do. Try walking around with the ball of your foot over your heel, then raise your heel over the ball. That is the principle behind "high arch supports" and lowering the heels would throw off the balance and be real uncomfortable.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2014
  20. chiliinabowl

    chiliinabowl Member

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    I can appreciate your forsight in purchasing a tool that will allow you to adjust shoe sizes as an investement. However, the exchange between me and my wife would be comical as I explained why I needed a $1000 shoe stretcher.

    I do share your general take on the heel height. I do still think it might be worth the trade off for a dressier look. I don't recall seeing any real complaints from people who got the lower heel, then again I haven't looked for that specifically.
     

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