Custom White's Boots ... Thoughts?

[linafelt]

I am meeting with Nicks later this week to place a stock order and go over future projects. Let me know if you have any questions or if you would like me to run anything by Nicks as far as specific build needs.
Dustin

The two Nick's boots you have on your site now really look great, and very different from other Nick's boots that I've seen, which seem much more Western and pointy toed. I am sure you could get some interest here for more boots along those lines. Two questions I would say for your meeting with Nick's: 1. Any chance of getting Horsehide? 2. How about a sprung toe?

Thanks for all this info!

 

[intheround]

could you ask nicks if they could do a soft toe oxford?
http://www.porhomme.com/2011/10/superdenim-x-viberg-145-oxford/

 

[2eleven]

Fedex delivered a box from Baker's yesterday.

New bounty hunters on the left, not so new SJs on the right:


A few more of the new ones:








And the build:

Custom White's Smoke Jumper
Counter Leather Natural Chrome Excel by Horween, Hardware Antique Eyes & Hooks, Celastic Toe Box Single Celastic Toe, Height 8", Last Semi Dress (Bounty Hunter), Steel Toe No Thanks, Upper (Shaft) Leather Natural Chrome Excel by Horween, Toe Cap No Thanks, Toe Vamp Leather Natural Chrome Excel by Horween, Top Cut Top (standard), Midsole Single, Leather Liner Cream, Size - Width D (medium), Lace Design Plain Toe, Sole Vibram 430 Mini Vib, Toe Cap Leather Color Does not apply, Edge Brown, Size - Length 9, Sole Trim Close Trim

 

[aaronjared]



do you have more pics of the sole? Looks like double leather /Cuban heel /then the mini lug sole. Do they automatically add another layer of leather when adding the lug sole? I know whites add another layer when they do commando soles so wondering if they do the same with half soles. Post your spec

Sorry for just getting to respond to this. Pretty much all of White's soles are the same thickness if I'm not mistaken, so for the mini lug half sole they add a second piece of leather to make up the difference. It gives the appearance of a double leather with the half sole beneath it. Here is a better picture of it in action.

I am waiting for a brown edge dressing I ordered from AE (thanks to those who suggested it) so I will retouch them shortly.

 

[linafelt]

FINALLY!!!
Just got my black Horse Hide SD delivered!

All black Horse Hide
Lowered block heel
Close trim
Sole 269 vibram
Brown egde
Antique hooks and eyelets
Single celastic


I'll post some pics soon if someone is interested in this configuration.

 

[revrend]

I'd love to see pics. I'm really interested in horsehide for my next pair.

 

[andy b.]



The radius of the stitching for each row is different, so I think this would account for the difference in stitch lengths between the two rows. As far as I know, you could avoid this by single needle stitching each row.

Believe me, it is not just along the toe radius where the stitch length is different. I don't think there is a single place along the entire sole where the two rows match. They are definitely sewn separately. But I do agree the stitch length on the outer row in a radius will be longer just due to geometry.

 

[andy b.]



This is my first post on SF.  When Nicks sews the soles on these, they use a Rapid E 317 long stitch cam sole stitcher.  Each row is sewn individually.  The first row, closest to the vamp or upper, contacts the the awl guard on the stitcher which is in place to keep the awl from damaging the boot upper as its pushed in to the machine.  The guard creates a little bit of resistance, hence the tad bit smaller stitches right close to the vamp.  The boots I'm doing with Nicks are a stitch down construction, where the upper or vamp is pulled over the last then cemented to the mid sole followed by the stitching which will go through the vamp, mid sole, and out sole.  Nicks, Whites, Wesco, Viberg, Hawthorn all use their own take on the Stitch Down boot, the main difference being how they attach the insole board.  

Whites and Nicks also make boots using a rolled Norwegian Welt where a thin piece of leather is HAND sewn through the vamp and into the insole board at about a 40deg angle to attach the vamp to the insole.  The thin piece of leather is then folded over the vamp/insole stitch to cover it and protect it from water and dirt.  This construction gives the best fit, but it comes with a price... High $ from the hand sewing and they are WAY stiff for casual wear.  

I am meeting with Nicks later this week to place a stock order and go over future projects.  Let me know if you have any questions or if you would like me to run anything by Nicks as far as specific build needs.
Dustin

Dustin,

Thanks for the info! The three pairs of White's I have all have the rolled Norwegian welt, as you refer to it. I really like the look of it.

And as others have mentioned, please feel free to start a NIck's thread!!!! When I bought my first pair of White's I had narrowed my choices down to either White's or Nick's, and I was probably leaning 55% towards Nick's, but couldn't find any detailed info about them from people who bought them. I think it would be great to have some reviews and information in a Nick's thread for reference. I can definitely see myself picking up a pair at some point if I get more info on them (including photos, you know, we love photos ).

Andy B.

 

[Quack Attack]

SF - custom Nick's Build here - see photos.
Build spec:
Oxford
Hardware All Antique Eyes
Lineman/Side Patch Yes Please
Outsole Stitching color White
Edge Natural
Thread Color (upper) Green
Counter Leather Natural Chrome Excel Rough Out
Toe Vamp Leather Natural Chrome Excel Rough Out
Upper (Shaft) Leather Natural Chrome Excel by Horween
Midsole Double
Pull Loops
Lace Design Lace to Toe
Sole Vibram 2021 Sand
Height 3"



-Kyle

 

[ben2t]

i want one in 4" lace to toe oxford! somebody @ ebay beats me with auto bid on this one!

 

[joekix]

My White's SD came in today. Took exactly 4 weeks! Baker's quoted 6-8 so it was a real surprise when I got an email on Monday saying they shipped.

White's Semi Dress with Water Buffalo Leather Sole Vibram 269, Size - Length 10, Edge Brown, Upper (Shaft) Leather Black Cherry Water Buffalo, Midsole Double, Pull Loops No Thanks, Leather Liner Black, Sole Trim Standard Trim, Toe Vamp Leather Black Cherry Water Buffalo, Size - Width D (medium), Hardware Antique Eyes & Hooks, Celastic Toe Box Single Celastic Toe, Heel Base Standard

 

[rutabaga]

Apologies if this has been asked before, but what option is selected to have the heel outsole slant in towards the toe like that, and can that option be unselected or is it on all White's makes?

 

[anrobit]

Apologies if this has been asked before, but what option is selected to have the heel outsole slant in towards the toe like that, and can that option be unselected or is it on all White's makes?

That's a cuban heel. They offer standard block heels.

 

[misterjuiceman]

Off-topic slightly—does anyone want to make a Nick's thread?

 

[cathpah]

Off-topic slightly—does anyone want to make a Nick's thread?

I just did. Figured it was time.

Here's the thread.