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Custom suits question

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by JLA, Aug 29, 2002.

  1. JLA

    JLA Active Member

    Messages:
    42
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2002
    I just bought three custom suits and the lining is different
    than off the rack suits. Is this right or am I getting screwed?
    Thanks.
     
  2. ulf

    ulf Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    83
    Joined:
    Aug 27, 2002
    Location:
    Milan
    Different in what way?
     
  3. Joe G

    Joe G Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    404
    Joined:
    May 22, 2002
    Location:
    Brussels
    Linings are usually made of some form of rayon (cupro bemberg is the Italian term that's often used), or occasionally silk. (I've only seen that in the Escorial suits by Brioni, though.) How are the linings different from OTR suits you own? Colour? Texture? Hand? As for the broader question about custom suits, custom is just that. You tell the tailor what you want. S/he makes it happen. If you want the lining made out of petrified wood, that's what you'll get. Won't be very comfortable, though [​IMG] That said, often really good custom suitmakers will encourage a customer to specify an unlined suit. These are actually more expensive to produce, because the seams that would be hidden by the lining must be picture-perfect instead of simply functional.
     
  4. Joe G

    Joe G Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    404
    Joined:
    May 22, 2002
    Location:
    Brussels
    Edit. Double post. Sorry.
     
  5. JLA

    JLA Active Member

    Messages:
    42
    Joined:
    Mar 19, 2002
    When I tried them on I thought I noticed no lining. I called yesterday and he told me all of their suits are lined. I don't know if he means a full lining like OTR suits or just on the sides in the front. I will pick them up next friday and will find out. Should I insist on a full lining?
    Thanks...
     
  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,441
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2002
    Location:
    London, UK
    It is easier and cheaper to produce a lined coat (jacket) than an unlined or ¾ lined one (i.e. front and shoulder blades). If your tailor says his coats are lined, that will almost definitely mean full lined; otherwise he would have asked you what you preferred and shown you samples. Anyhow, it might be too late now, to opt for a partial lined coat. Another advantage of a bespoke suit, which is hidden by the lining, is you can keep quite generous seam allowances and the coat can be let out at some later date (should you gain more "seniority").
     
  7. Bic Pentameter

    Bic Pentameter Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    796
    Joined:
    May 1, 2002
    Location:
    Seattle
    I think the notion that "custom is what you ask for" is spot on. Putting aside the question of whether it is better to have a lined or an unlined suit, I find that I am frustrated when I order a made to measure or custom suit and find something just isn't as I had wanted. The lapel is a little too wide, no flap on the back trouser pocket, buttons not as smart on the fabric as they seemed in the tailor's sample book. . .etc. The idea that the seems on an unlined suit have to be cleaner seems to have some intuitive merit.

    In Japan, when you are asked if you'd like your custom/made to measure suit lined, the reason is because unlined suits are cooler in the sultry summers. Lined=spring, fall, winter; unlined=summer. I have seen Japanese businessmen wearing navy or charcoal unlined summer suits that were so thin the white of their shirts showed through their jackets. That is one reason I always ask for a lining.

    Given that those who order suits often ask for side vents, in the brief moments in your day that the flap blows up in the wind, or you open the jacket to slip your billfold into the pocket, would you rather have someone glimpse the back of the outer suit fabric, or a slinky lining? I think I would rather have the lining showing. Other thoughts?


    Bic
     

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