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Critique this bespoke suit from Baron Lee

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by hgcrpd, May 18, 2011.

  1. hgcrpd

    hgcrpd Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    May 18, 2011
    Specifically, is it something about the tailoring of this suit jacket that makes it look blocky, or is it just my body shape? Past suits that I have worn have had more padded shoulders, I think, so this is my first experience with a jacket that shows the significant sloping that I have. Is this how it is supposed to look? Is it possible to get a slimmer look out of it?

    Just had this made from Baron Lee in Hong Kong. Overall I find the fit to be good and comfortable. With one button buttoned, I can just fit my hand into the front of the suit, and it hugs the body pretty well along the waist. No problems with moving the arms. Normally, the front doesn't crease, making the X near the button; it's just doing that because I tilted my arms out a bit so that you could see the edges of the jacket.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. yeeth

    yeeth Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Manhattan
    the unstructured shoulder is a design choice i believe.
    i'm no expert, but i'd prefer a higher armhole and lower button stance...
     
  3. mlongano

    mlongano Well-Known Member

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    Feb 9, 2010
    Coat appears to be tight, and the sleeves appear to be a 1/4" to 3/8" too long. Also, the balance appears to be off..shorter in the back than the front.

    I'd head back to the tailor for some adjustments.
     
  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    It looks to me that it has a number of issues. The shoulders fit ok, however the buttonstance is high and a bit too taught. It looks like you could have gone higher with the armholes, shorter with the sleeves, and the overall length looks short. Maybe the front balance being a bit longer is a stylistic choice of the cutter, or your yourself, but the back of the jacket looks very short and even in the front it could come down 1"-2".
     
  5. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    Sleeves look very long and the body a little short. Try to get lighting from the front instead of the back for your photos, it will make it easier to judge.
     
  6. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Way too short, buttoning point way too high. That's why you look so blocky.
     
  7. JG000

    JG000 Well-Known Member

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    May 14, 2010
    Terrible for Bespoke, looks like marginally acceptable OTR.
     
  8. Trompe le Monde

    Trompe le Monde Well-Known Member

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    too short and too tight which exaggerates your width..hence the blockiness
     
  9. Benjamin E.

    Benjamin E. Well-Known Member

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    Jun 1, 2010
    It's way too short, for one. The sleeves need to come up a bit and also the your right shoulder is lower than the left.
     
  10. Superfluous

    Superfluous Well-Known Member

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    Terrible for Bespoke, looks like marginally acceptable OTR.


    No need to make mean comments like this. Remember, he did pay money for it. You could have said: "I think you could have done better with an off-the-rack suit instead."
     
  11. a tailor

    a tailor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,852
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    Jul 22, 2006
    Location:
    chicago suburbs
    Specifically, is it something about the tailoring of this suit jacket that makes it look blocky, or is it just my body shape? Past suits that I have worn have had more padded shoulders, I think, so this is my first experience with a jacket that shows the significant sloping that I have. Is this how it is supposed to look? Is it possible to get a slimmer look out of it?

    Just had this made from Baron Lee in Hong Kong. Overall I find the fit to be good and comfortable. With one button buttoned, I can just fit my hand into the front of the suit, and it hugs the body pretty well along the waist. No problems with moving the arms. Normally, the front doesn't crease, making the X near the button; it's just doing that because I tilted my arms out a bit so that you could see the edges of the jacket.


    most of the replies are right on.
    the shoulders are a fine shape except that you have a right low shoulder.
    the balance is off. that results in the uneven bottom and wide open lower front.
    to learn more go to the search function, ask for the following.
    "do you have one low shoulder". dated 1-5-11
    "how do they cut a low shoulder" dated 1-5-11
    "balance explained" dated 4-7-11

    may i ask how many fittings you had? do not count initial measuring or finished suit check up.
     
  12. hgcrpd

    hgcrpd Member

    Messages:
    5
    Joined:
    May 18, 2011
    How can you tell that the jacket is too short? When I checked for length, it goes right into the palm of my hand when I cup my hands, which is what I have heard as a rough guide for length.

    Same for the sleeves - should the cuff of the shirt be showing all the time?

    The low right shoulder is due to a slight angle in my stance in this photo. I do have a low shoulder, but it's actually my left shoulder (I used to carry a messenger pack, which was slung on my right shoulder). I checked for this at the tailor, so it should be balanced, but I will double check.

    On tightness, should I have the tailor release the waist a bit? Is that where it is too tight? And how do you tell? I think this may be my fault, since I asked for something slim fitting.

    I had two fittings before picking up, but I didn't know what adjustments to make after the second fitting. I plan on taking it back for additional adjustments after I figure out what exactly is wrong.
     
  13. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    More like Baron Greenback.
     
  14. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Hmmm...definitely not their best work unfortunately. Some parts look good (shoulders and lapel shape for example), but others could use some work. Here are some points to mention to Peter if you decide to do another commission:

    1) lower button stance 1 inch
    2) lower length 1 inch
    3) shorten sleeves 1/2 inch

    I think when you mentioned you wanted a slim fitting suit he thought the high button stance and shorter jacket would fit in with what you wanted. Just a mis-communication it seems which can certainly be rectified in the future.

    One thing I notice as well is that the fabric doesn't look great, at least from these photos. Is it a worsted material from his house fabrics? While generally acceptable, those aren't great (the in-house linens are his strong point) and I'd try and bring in something from Harrison's, Minnis, etc next time you go.
     
  15. JTA

    JTA Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    855
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    Apr 26, 2008
    My experiences with him were always pleasant.

    When I visited him for the first time, we spent quite a bit of time on the details (missed some of them though) since I'm not 100% sure of what would fit me but Peter nailed them. I developed my style from there on (and trapped into the realm of bespoke *sigh, point of no return I'm afraid).

    Agree with David on the suggestions. Slightly lower button stance, longer jacket (back should just cover your bum and front should not be too long), shorter sleeve and maybe open the waist slightly.
     
  16. Maccimus

    Maccimus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    978
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    Aug 6, 2008
    Location:
    Shanghai
    We need pictures with sufficient light. Then we can judge whether the jacket is too short or not. Is that a black suit?
     
  17. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,059
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    Jul 2, 2006
    Location:
    Cambridge, England
    How can you tell that the jacket is too short? When I checked for length, it goes right into the palm of my hand when I cup my hands, which is what I have heard as a rough guide for length.

    Comparison with the hand is only a rough approximation, if you have shorter/longer arms than average it will not be the best length. We need full length pictures including your legs to properly judge the length though.
     
  18. Ohnistun

    Ohnistun Member

    Messages:
    19
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2011
    Funny, I was just at Baron Lee's last week and made some of the exact same comments with regards to the button hole and prominant barrel shape of the body. The suit seemed to wear comfortably - but the shape just looked very off
     
  19. gj555

    gj555 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    297
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2005
    Location:
    Toronto
    Comparison with the hand is only a rough approximation, if you have shorter/longer arms than average it will not be the best length. We need full length pictures including your legs to properly judge the length though.

    Not to hijack this thread, but does camera angle and positioning also impact how clearly people can comment on the fit? Most people snap photos at eye level. But, when taking photos of suits for comment, it seems like people simply set their cameras on a delayed autoshoot timer and place it on a table. This results in a photo that focuses in on the waist, which is not how we typically look at things. Also, when placing a camera on a table, it is possible that it is not straight or is slightly tilted and it is also more difficult to line up to the camera properly. Unless you have someone taking the photo for you or you use a tripod, getting perfect feedback from a photo is difficult.

    I know I have this very problem. In the photo of my suit below, notice how one side of the suit looks like it is hanging lower than the left. This is solely a stance, angle and camera issue. Any tips for getting the best shots?

    Again, sorry to hijack the thread.

    [​IMG]
     
  20. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    New York City
    In all honesty a photo is just a brief snapshot in time and not much can really be assessed by it. Clothing moves. If two photos are taken one second from each other the garment will look different. This has been explored over time with certain members posting pictures of the same garments.
     

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