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"Critique my suit" -- my turn...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Twotone, Aug 31, 2012.

  1. Twotone

    Twotone Well-Known Member

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    I've seen a lot, and commented on a few, "critique my suit posts." Now, it's my turn.

    Hickey Freeman Collection Barrett Glen Plaid suit with a faint rust over check
    Mytailor.com MTM shirt
    Zegna tie
    Lorenzo Banfi walnut cap toe shoes

    I broke my left leg and collar bone skiing many years ago, so I have a few posture issues.

    I know this is a tough crowd, so have at it.

    Thanks!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  2. KObalto

    KObalto Well-Known Member

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    Okay, I'll start with the obvious. Quarters are too closed. Pants have way too much break which I think may be creating the rippling in the pants legs.
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
  3. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

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    Indeed quarters too closed and trousers plain too long, not simply break which is a lesser measure. I would also suggest that they are too big - look a the baggy thighs/seat. The vent of the coat is also pulling and if you look at the lower button, hole and button do not line up.

    I am glad you like the cloth.
     
  4. RDiaz

    RDiaz Well-Known Member

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    Most obvious to me (besides trouser length) is that balance is a bit off. The back looks almost OK, perhaps just a tad long as it seems to rest on your butt, and front is short. That's most likely the cause of the closed quarters, slight collar gap and gaping vent. It doesn't look terrible anyways. Trousers are perhaps the worst visual offender. They are too long, and the back also looks rumpled, maybe wearing them a little higher in the back or shortening them from the top back might help. Rise seems a little long too, or you are wearing them too low. If you can pull them up that will obviously help with length too.

    I'm no tailor but that's what I can see based on previous experience with my own garments [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012
  5. imanewbie

    imanewbie Well-Known Member

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    looks big overall on you...need to taper it in at all place...
     
  6. AlexE

    AlexE Well-Known Member

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    Trousers much too long

    Quarters too closed

    Vent is opening, which it should not

    In general the trousers look really huge ... but than we talk about Hickey Freeman, which has a more generous, boxy cut
     
  7. StumpjumperE

    StumpjumperE Well-Known Member

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    Hi, I'm a new guy here... what does 'quarters too closed' mean??
     
  8. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Well-Known Member

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    As many have pointed out, the pooling fabric around your ankles probably indicates that the slacks are much too long. However, it could also mean that you're not wearing them high enough on your waist. With the jacket closed, there's no way for us to tell, but since...ahem...your crotch is hanging low, the problem is probably the latter. You might need suspenders, rather than a belt, in order to keep your slacks at the proper height. In addition, the slacks are too full through the legs.

    To my eye, another problem is that both your shirt and jacket sleeves are too short. You're showing some cuff, which is good, but the jacket sleeve ought to be hitting the break in your wrist, and your shirt sleeve ought to be going just a little beyond that. In the above pic, your shirt cuff is hitting your wrist where your jacket should be.

    P.S. Your PS is out of control. Also, I hate that tie. :D Seriously, though. Hate it.
     
  9. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Well-Known Member

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  10. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    collapsing under right sleeve in chest are probably a posture issue. A pad or differently cut shoulder would sort it out.

    Shorten left sleeve 1/4" so it matches the right.

    You need more room in the seat of the coat.

    Blades need cleaning up at the back.

    Your sleeves look odd, may be a sleeve pitch issue or has someone altered them badly? I would make sure the pitch is right and clean up those lines.

    Trousers too long.

    Balance on trousers is off.

    Are they too big in the waist? Did you put them on straight? Picture of just the trousers would be good.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    Is this an old suit you are thinking of altering or a new suit?

    The jacket balance is off and causes the fronts to cross over in front and makes the center vent fall open. Because it is a plaid you can only adjust for this by shortening the back from the top shoulders. Doubtful it would be 100% correct.

    Trousers are too full and too long and the way they hang creates an unattractive disparity between the jacket and the trouser.
     
  12. StumpjumperE

    StumpjumperE Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Sep 2, 2012
  13. Ebichuman

    Ebichuman Well-Known Member

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    Wow, Stumpy, cool your heels.
     
  14. StumpjumperE

    StumpjumperE Well-Known Member

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    Why have discussion at all? Can't everything simply be searched? It's all been discussed before, right?

    I really hate that response.
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Stump - No, everything has not been discussed before. Also, you're not starting a discussion, you're just asking for information. Even if you don't know how to use the SF search function, there's always this other one you can use:

    http://lmgtfy.com/?q=jacket+quarters

    You're new here, there's no reason any members should bend over backwards to welcome you and help you. TB gave you the answer, and added a suggestion, if a snarky one, for you to find answers to your questions in the future. Don't be a dick about it.
     
  16. StumpjumperE

    StumpjumperE Well-Known Member

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    Responding is not 'bending over backwards'--if you think it is, you're RUDE, as was the other poster. If he didn't want to bend over backwards, how about not responding at all?

    Sheez...
     
  17. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

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    +1
     
  18. Yika

    Yika Well-Known Member

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    Lets all start a thread to welcome you.
     
  19. Threadbearer

    Threadbearer Well-Known Member

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    I owe you an apology.. When you said you were new, I thought you meant you were new to StyleForum, but I see now that you're also new to the Internet. Welcome.
     
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    But then how would you 1) get the answer to your question 2) figure out how to search for question answers in the future? TB's answer to you was actually very informative.

    If nobody responds at all, are you going to spend the 15 seconds to go find the answer for yourself? Or are you going to ask your question again and keep shitting up the thread? Look, I know it seems like not a big deal to just ask a question and have somebody tell you the answer. But for people who post on the board a lot, it gets really annoying and tiresome to answer the same questions again and again, which are readily available if you just spend a little bit of your time searching. After you've been around for a while, you'll see what I mean.

    The board is very welcoming of new members who are willing to read a bit first, or at least are willing to take a hint when it's given to them. For instance if you had responded to TB and just said, "Ah silly me, should have searched first!" then nobody really cares about the whole thing. But this attitude that we're here to answer all the questions you have at your beck and call (although there is an entire thread devoting to asking questions and getting answers, and if you asked there you probably would get an answer to this question and any similar ones...but you might have to search to find it) is kind of insulting.
     

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