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Critique my first bespoke suit, what do you think?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by madjbs, Feb 21, 2011.

  1. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    No, it isn't that bad. A few issues aside, it's not beyond help. I've seen far, far worse on this forum alone.
     
  2. Kiwi Man

    Kiwi Man Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, I know some people like overly short jackets.....Thom Browne has made a living off of it. However, it is not a look that has long term viability.

    Mike


    Would you please clarify what "long term viability" is? Are you talking about the quality of the suits?
     
  3. Redwoood

    Redwoood Well-Known Member

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    Would you please clarify what "long term viability" is? Are you talking about the quality of the suits?

    He means it will look dated very soon
     
  4. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Well-Known Member

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    That's what all the fuss was about???? That doesn't look bad at all! I've seen so MUCH worse on this forum from lots of members who think they look good but only look like shapeless horrible blobs of awful.

    Anyway, if the jacket can be lengthened you're in business. Other than that wear it in good health.
     
  5. upwards416

    upwards416 Active Member

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    Almost all the criticism was based on the head on, full length front and back views, which have been curiously omitted this time around. These cropped, slightly side angle shots are much more flattering.
     
  6. madjbs

    madjbs Well-Known Member

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    Almost all the criticism was based on the head on, full length front and back views, which have been curiously omitted this time around. These cropped, slightly side angle shots are much more flattering.

    These shots are better because they were taken by someone else from the proper height and angle. The first phitos were not so good because I was having to run across the room while the camera was on (a short!) self timer.
     
  7. Gent

    Gent Well-Known Member

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    Almost all the criticism was based on the head on, full length front and back views, which have been curiously omitted this time around. These cropped, slightly side angle shots are much more flattering.

    Indeed, these pics don't show the major issues. They look relatively clean, as the only real issues with the fron were the length and the right underarm area, which can't be seen in these pictures. Even the second set of pictures was more clean than the first, though it still showed the actual issues.

    I don't want to get into this again, for two reasons. 1) I've had my say regarding the original pictures, and it led nowhere. 2) Someone who - unlike me - actually knows what they're talking about has given a thorough analysis after seeing the full shots. There really is nothing to add.

    However, I would like to point out that this thread should not be judged by the latest pics with the myspace angles. The issues were always in the rear, and the criticism given, while harsh, was fairly justified.

    From the front it looked fairly ok, but side and rear photos show that [the sleeves] have big issues
     
  8. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Well-Known Member

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    I swore I would avoid this thread but its so frustrating to see it constantly at the top of the first page. This is a terrible argument. Nobody MADE the OP post up pictures. At the end of the day, according to SF it wasn't a good fit, and he didn't like what he heard. So he took them down.

    He Chose to post the pictures and ASKED for input. Why would anyone that was asked by the OP be required to post a picture of themselves?


    How is this a terrible argument? Yes nobody asked the OP to post up pictures, but he wanted feedback not bashing. And if you go by "according to SF" there is not a correct fit, some prefer the shorter neoplitan jacket, some the longer English steed type jacket. Again some like that structured Roman, huntsman look ,some the soft A&S, neoploitian look. Yes i agree with you that he should not have taken the pictures down because of some negative comments, but even you have to admit some of the replies in this thread are way out of line.
     
  9. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Well-Known Member

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    And if you are gonna go bashing on someone, at least give him some visuals to see what is "correct fit"
     
  10. madjbs

    madjbs Well-Known Member

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    Jeff is right.

    It's funny to see that some of them still can't help themselves, they just won't let it go will they. How silly.

    Some people should take note of the way Despos's delivers his advice, he obviously knows the meaning of the word "critique" and has some class to go with it.
     
  11. Kiwi Man

    Kiwi Man Well-Known Member

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    Hey,

    I hate to get personel with you, but I don't know if you mind me asking. With all of the countries in the world, why would you choose Thailand over the US or some developed countries.

    Unless you are one of those manager who is sent to be in Thailand in order to do a job that pays you extremely well, I can understand that.

    As a Thai native, I felt like a bastard for hating living in my home country this much. I have lived in the US for almost seven years and I felt in love with the country. I see that Americans are nice because the way they take care of their country, the way people drive their cars over in the US is much different than the way Thais drive. The weather that you get to enjoy in all four seasons and so many other reasons.

    Couple of weeks before I know for certain that I had to leave the US for Thailand permanently, I started to get really depressed and sometime I cried uncontrolably for not wanting to come back. It got a little bit pathetic, but there is the reason why some people would call US "the greatest country in the world." Personally, it is really true based on my experience living there.


    I'm assuming you're an expat? Enjoying it? My brother is on his third year in China and has no intention of returning to the States permanently. I manage to visit Asia a few weeks each year.


    I've never been to China so I cannot tell you what it is like over there, but I would get confused if your brother were to be in Bangkok and really have no intention in going back to the US.

    Well, US is a really big country so I don't know where your brother used to live, but my experience in the US, I have moved to several parts of the countries such as Suburb of Cleveland, OH; Charlotte, NC; suburb of Chicago, IL, and Orlando, FL. I have also traveled to places such as Evansville, IN; Memphis, TN; Nashville, TN; Milwaukee, WI; Almost every city that is located 50 miles within Los Angeles, CA radius; Almost every city that is located with 100 miles within Chicago, IL radius; Pittsburg, PA;Boston, MA; San Francisco, CA; Las Vegas, NV, and Indianapolis, IN. I dare to say that I would not mind living in any of those cities over Bangkok.
     
  12. pvrhye

    pvrhye Well-Known Member

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    화곡동 - Seoul
    enjoy in all four seasons and so many other reasons.

    ? Thailand is warm and sunny. Fuck winter. I would never miss it. Winter is the best indication that we have a god... and he's a cruel one.
     
  13. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    Location:
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    Hey,

    I hate to get personel with you, but I don't know if you mind me asking. With all of the countries in the world, why would you choose Thailand over the US or some developed countries.

    Unless you are one of those manager who is sent to be in Thailand in order to do a job that pays you extremely well, I can understand that.

    As a Thai native, I felt like a bastard for hating living in my home country this much. I have lived in the US for almost seven years and I felt in love with the country. I see that Americans are nice because the way they take care of their country, the way people drive their cars over in the US is much different than the way Thais drive. The weather that you get to enjoy in all four seasons and so many other reasons.

    Couple of weeks before I know for certain that I had to leave the US for Thailand permanently, I started to get really depressed and sometime I cried uncontrolably for not wanting to come back. It got a little bit pathetic, but there is the reason why some people would call US "the greatest country in the world." Personally, it is really true based on my experience living there.


    If you had ever lived in Australia, you wouldn't think that of America [​IMG]
     
  14. Metlin

    Metlin Well-Known Member

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    3,043
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    Feb 25, 2008
    If you had ever lived in Australia, you wouldn't think that of America [​IMG]

    Cause he'd be dead, killed by the Dundee?
     
  15. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    hahahaha No. Because we're so much better here [​IMG]
     
  16. woody3691

    woody3691 Member

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  17. woody3691

    woody3691 Member

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    [​IMG] MADJBS:
    Can't see your suit, pix removed. I too live in Thailand, BKK to be precise and after living here for 4 years, I have recently embarked on a suit buying spree. I visited many tailors and asked tons of questions, checked out loads of fabrics and have come to certain conclusions.

    It is possible to get a bespoke suit made in Thailand, fully canvassed, impeccably tailored, with luxurious fabrics. But it's a lot of work. I was originally going to try one tailor, have a suit made and take it from there. But the tailor I chose, tailor A with an impeccable reputation has had problems getting the fabric I chose, a 130 grey POW. I had to change fabrics 3 times before they said they could get what I chose. One month later, I'm still waiting.

    Meantime, I went to another tailor I had been considering and in 2 weeks got two SB suits. They were tailored exactly as I asked, SB 2 button, notched lapels, no vents, slightly fitted with natural shoulders and I only had to have them make a few adjustments. They are really surprisingly beautifully tailored. I looked hard to find flaws and I couldn't.

    While waiting for these two suits from tailor B, I visited Siam Paragon and found a really classy Dormeuil fabric. So I bought 3.5 meters and went looking for a tailor that would do a fully canvassed suit. I found tailor C, spent several visits in his shop discussing what I was expecting from his work and after being satisfied brought my fabric to him. Several days later I went for my first fitting. Pants were done and I had brought the pants from tailor B because the button-fly, adjustable elastic waist band, double pleats inverted to the fly, cuffs and heel guards were exactly as ordered and I wanted him to see what I was expecting. Well, no need because the pants at tailor C were tailored exactly as the pair I brought. Looked hard to find fault and couldn't. Actually, I was first able to appreciate how beautiful and silky the Dormeuil fabric was now that they were made into slacks, a 160 wool, cashmere, extremely light weight. The jacket I'm having tailored as a SB one button with high peaked lapels, 3" wide, as I envision this as a really dressy suit for special occasions. Needless to say, very happy with results thus far as my expectations with this tailor were not especially high having no prior experience and I was preparing for disappointment.

    Flashback, after I left the fabric with tailor C and before the first fitting, I stopped at another tailor D and spent several hours with him, looking at his finished products and watching him do a fitting on another client and looking at his fabrics. Well, no shock but I am having him make two suits, 160 lightweight wool/cashmere, one SB 2 button high peaked 3" wide lapel and another SB one button high peaked 3" wide lapel.

    Now I'm in hiatus and will wait for my other 4 suits to be finished and see if I need anything after that. I did my due diligence and whittled down the competent tailors and I'm sure there are others out there that are fine. So what did I learn:

    1. you need to know exactly what you want and have a written list of desired features to leave with the tailor. If you don't know what you want, that's why they developed the internet.
    2. pictures are also good.
    3. all selvedge in Thailand says wool/cashmere. Doesn't mean anything. You are better off asking for an all wool suit with no synthetics as it will last longer, look better and hold up under cleaning. All wool suit will start at 10,000 baht.
    4. most tailors fuse. Some will do a fully canvassed suit for a premium of 5,000 to 10,000 baht.
    5. fabric in Thailand is the killer. All imported fabric has huge duty. Most shops have a selection of no name wools and some Vitale Barberis Canonico. For which they charge a premium. The VBC is a very nice looking but on the lower-middle end of premium wools. For Zegna/Loro Piana/Scabal/Dormeuil expect to pay the equivalent of a business class airline ticket US to Asia.
    6. BUT, the catch is, a well tailored, beautifully designed army blanket is not going to turn heads. You really need to use a quality fabric. Otherwise you are wasting money. Purchasing fabric out of country at a reasonable price and finding a tailor who will work with your fabric is a really smart alternative.
    7. there are thousands of tailor shops in Bangkok. Most simply sell fabric and take measurements and then farm out the tailoring. The 24 hour turn-around is a fools errand. Quality work takes time. Even in a sweat shop. You must allow 3 fittings and perhaps two weeks or more assuming the tailor has the fabric in stock.
    8. without getting racist, I feel that the local Thai or Thai-Chinese afford the best bet towards getting a really high quality suit. Although I will say that tailor C was an Indian-Thai and I wouldn't hesitate having him make a suit for me because I see that his tailors have the expertise, design sense, style and expertise to produce a high quality product and I met another Indian, tailor E who told me he would prefer to make shirts and I had him make one for me and he redid the collar twice to my specifications and comfort and now I have an Egyptian cotton work of art.
    9. what I'm getting at is to avoid the tailors that proliferate in the tourist areas and have touts standing outside or use tuk or cab drivers to bring customers in.
    10. if you want the thrill of having a suit made from scratch in 24 hours and delight in paying only $100 for the suit, shirt and tie and aren't particular in fabric or quality and aren't expecting SR then go for it. But if you want quality, you'll pay for it and it will take time and perseverance but you'll save a fortune compared to SR or NY.
    11. finally, for $835 you can get a really well designed, well tailored, brand name wool/cashmere fully canvassed suit with all the frills, but like I said, it takes work.
     

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