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Critique custom dress shirt (tailorstore)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by stephen, Mar 12, 2011.

  1. stephen

    stephen Well-Known Member

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    Sep 26, 2006
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    Atlanta
    Would appreciate any sizing suggestions... It doesn't look bad in these photos, but I'm thinking about extending the sleeve length an additional 1" and the shirt length an additional 1". Seems like some of my recent shirts have been pulling up on the sleeves and coming untucked when seated a bit more than I'd like.

    Also -- didn't notice this until just now, but maybe I'll add an inch to the waist area... doesn't look bad tucked in, but the taper's a bit extreme when untucked.

    Any thoughts / suggestions? Thanks! [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  2. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Well-Known Member

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    Yoke appears to be slightly too large, but that could be because the shirt is unbuttoned. Or needs to shrink. I would go with more waist suppression. Its the hip measurement that gives the taper you complain about, but I think its fine. Your not going to wear it untucked anyway. Somehow the sleeves look slightly baggy in relation to the body. But that could be misperception.

    Other than that, looks good.
     
  3. saiyar1

    saiyar1 Well-Known Member

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    I dont think you need any of those changes. However, you are very slim. There's really no need to be getting a center box pleat. It creates a puff in the lower back. Side pleats are preferable, ideally no pleats at all though.
     
  4. Blackhood

    Blackhood Well-Known Member

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    I Agree with whats been said. The shirt fits fine now, but as its custom you might as well get it perfect. With that in mind I would:

    1. Slim the sleeves down considerably. This is where shirts look most "tailored", get the sleeves right and even a layman knows how well your shirts fit.

    2. Swap the box-pleat for side pleats, much nicer shape all over.

    3. Consider making the cuffs smaller in diameter, they look a little gaping atm. If you want to be able to wear a watch, make relevant cuff a little wider.

    4. Add an inch or so to the body to solve your tucking issues

    5. I would keep the taper, it is slimming, and the shirts are too long to be worn un-tucked anyway.

    As I said, its a nice fitting shirt, but the above would make is a great fitting shirt. Would you mind sharing the maker?
     
  5. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

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    As it appears to be a button down, why is the collar not buttoned?
     
  6. CYstyle

    CYstyle Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't extend the sleeves another inch they'd be way too long. It's probably getting caught somewhere on the jacket you wear, ie armholes, and take a look at blackhoods suggestions and phxlawstudent.

    instead of adding to the waist, you can take an inch off the chest, there's still alot of fabric there, although that depends how fitted of a shirt you want.
     
  7. stephen

    stephen Well-Known Member

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    Sep 26, 2006
    Location:
    Atlanta
    Thanks for all the suggestions, everyone! Very helpful... I haven't been able to make to the gym as much lately, so my body type has changed quite a bit (smaller arms + chest). I'll have to make a tough decision on whether to give-in to the new 70hr/wk work lifestyle or hope-against-hope that I'll have gym time.

    I'll definitely:

    a) switch to side pleats
    b) cuff: -1/2"
    c) length: +1"
    d) sleeves: -1" (maybe)

    Any other thoughts? It's always tough to judge in these static poses. I'll have to do some exciting action shots of me in front of an excel model sometime.

    (By the way -- the shirt is from tailorstore.com. Haven't been super-satisfied with the fabric quality lately, but it's so difficult to switch to someone else when you have your sizing relatively down. It's a good business model -- high switching costs.)
     
  8. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    NYC
    first.
    wash the shirt press the shirt
    then try on with the button down buttons buttoned.

    in general the fit is really off. the chest is too big. too much fullness in the upper back.
    sleeves are rather full cuffs look very stiffly fused as does the button down collar.
     
  9. stephen

    stephen Well-Known Member

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    Atlanta
    Yeah, the back does look that way to me as well... lost quite a bit of musculature in the shoulders / upper-back (used to rock climb more extensively).

    One more change:

    e) -1" from upper back / yoke

    Thanks! Any other suggestions?
     
  10. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the back does look that way to me as well... lost quite a bit of musculature in the shoulders / upper-back (used to rock climb more extensively).

    One more change:

    e) -1" from upper back / yoke

    Thanks! Any other suggestions?


    The back is part of the chest measurement actually. The yoke is your shoulders. The yoke should end at your collar bone. If you feel your shoulder, you can tell where the bone ends, that's the general rule of thumb as to where the yoke should end.

    But yeah, I would personally slim down the chest and go with side pleats. I like side pleats because if I don't use side pleats, my range of movement is reduced, or I have to increase the chest measurement, which sort of defeats the point. Plus, I'm wearing a jacket anyway...

    As for makers, I have yet to be disappointed with propercloth's fabrics, however they aren't the cheapest maker, and certainly aren't the best. Modern Tailor is hit or miss and I've had issues with their manufacturing process (which may or may not be the case for others); but they are really cheap and I've gotten some nice feeling fabrics from them.

    I mention these two over others because both offer a fit guarantee. PC offers it on every fabric. MT offers it only on their $20 shirts. Just another option if you feel like changing.
     
  11. spitfirees20

    spitfirees20 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Dec 10, 2008
    Thanks! Any other suggestions?
    This shirt doesn't look like it fits, at all, in any area except maybe the waist. The collar looks a bit big (also, why is it unbuttoned?), the shoulders look too big, the chest has too much cloth... it just doesn't look like it's worth putting any money into.
     
  12. acecow

    acecow Well-Known Member

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    Dec 18, 2009
    Location:
    Not Manhattan, unfortunately
    The fit is baaaad, especially for a custom made. Here's what I'd change: 1. decrease the chest measurement. 2. decrease the armhole measurement. 3. decrease the forearm measurement. 4. decrease the yoke/shoulder measurement by about half-an-inch to an inch. 5. decrease the waist measurement a little. 6. decrease the cuff measurement. 7. decrease the length of the shirt. 8. get rid of the back pleat. 9. seems like the collar may be too large, but I cannot say for sure. EDIT: For reference, here's how a shirt should fit (in my opinion): [​IMG]
     
  13. bringusingoodale

    bringusingoodale Well-Known Member

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    ^some would say that is too tight.

    But if you are as slim as the OP, a shirt that fits like that wouldn't raise any concerns.
     
  14. rioni

    rioni Well-Known Member

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    ^^ that shirt is way too tight
     
  15. TheWraith

    TheWraith Well-Known Member

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    Australia
    A lot of bad responses in this thread, IMO. The sizing is only slightly off, not as bad as some people here claim. One of the reasons why you really shouldn't ask for size opinions on this, or any other forum, really. You get some really bad responses from people who (for the most part) are confusing opinion with fact, and don't really have the knowledge (barring the odd exception) to be making a proper, informed opinion anyway.
     
  16. bringusingoodale

    bringusingoodale Well-Known Member

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    ^Style lives and plays in the gap between opinion and fact.
     
  17. acecow

    acecow Well-Known Member

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    Not Manhattan, unfortunately
    ^some would say that is too tight. But if you are as slim as the OP, a shirt that fits like that wouldn't raise any concerns.
    That's my point. He's fit, why hide it?
    ^^ that shirt is way too tight
    I respectfully disagree. It may be too tight for your tastes, but it's not objectively too tight. It's not pulling anywhere, it's unbelievably comfortable and at the same time conforms to the aesthetics of my style.
    A lot of bad responses in this thread, IMO. The sizing is only slightly off, not as bad as some people here claim. One of the reasons why you really shouldn't ask for size opinions on this, or any other forum, really. You get some really bad responses from people who (for the most part) are confusing opinion with fact, and don't really have the knowledge (barring the odd exception) to be making a proper, informed opinion anyway.
    I think most people were identifying some or most problems correctly. I'm sorry, but in picture #4 it looks like the OP has some kind of misshaped, deformed chest. In others, there's pulling and bunching of fabric. It's far from an ideal fit. However, I mostly agree. Most of us here have no experience cutting and making shirts ourselves. But it doesn't mean we can't identify some of the problems. And anyway, after giving my opinion I posted a picture of what I think is a good fit (on me). If he likes it, he can follow my advice. If not, he can ignore it. His choice.
     
  18. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Well-Known Member

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    @acecow's shirt
    First, at least you have the bravery to post yourself. I applaud you for that.

    However, while you like the fit, its not what is universally agreed upon as a good fit. I personally think your chest and waist is okay, but I don't think your going to get very much freedom of movement unless you have side pleats in the back. You may not want such movement, its up to you. I do wonder how well the shirt stays in place during much body movement. I guess if you just sit at a desk all day none of this matters.

    That said, the sleeves are really really tight. You can just see them wrinkling everywhere. Very unprofessional looking. You can keep the jacket on and hide it, but thats just covering up the problem. So on your sleeves, I completely disagree with your tastes. But again, your shirt, your fit, not my problem.

    I'm just saying the above for the benefit of other readers. This is in no way a personal attack against acecow or his shirt fit.
     
  19. acecow

    acecow Well-Known Member

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    Not Manhattan, unfortunately
    @acecow's shirt
    First, at least you have the bravery to post yourself. I applaud you for that.

    However, while you like the fit, its not what is universally agreed upon as a good fit. I personally think your chest and waist is okay, but I don't think your going to get very much freedom of movement unless you have side pleats in the back. You may not want such movement, its up to you. I do wonder how well the shirt stays in place during much body movement. I guess if you just sit at a desk all day none of this matters.

    That said, the sleeves are really really tight. You can just see them wrinkling everywhere. Very unprofessional looking. You can keep the jacket on and hide it, but thats just covering up the problem. So on your sleeves, I completely disagree with your tastes. But again, your shirt, your fit, not my problem.

    I'm just saying the above for the benefit of other readers. This is in no way a personal attack against acecow or his shirt fit.


    The photo was taken after making and consuming breakfast in that shirt. It actually stays in place and I've lots of freedom to move due to very high armholes. Yes, the sleeves are too slim, the MTM maker f*****d up big time on that order. It's still wearable and, being a shirt with french cuffs, will always be under a jacket. Catastrophe avoided just barely, whew. But boy was I pissed when I first tried it on. My point was not about the sleeves, though.
     
  20. phxlawstudent

    phxlawstudent Well-Known Member

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    The photo was taken after making and consuming breakfast in that shirt. It actually stays in place and I've lots of freedom to move due to very high armholes. Yes, the sleeves are too slim, the MTM maker f*****d up big time on that order. It's still wearable and, being a shirt with french cuffs, will always be under a jacket. Catastrophe avoided just barely, whew. But boy was I pissed when I first tried it on. My point was not about the sleeves, though.

    Well, in that case, we're mostly agreed. I'd have to see how the shirt performs in a video to be absolutely sure, as right now I still don't buy it that you can move your arms all around without pulling at the chest. But! That is a personal preference, and I will readily admit that several of my shirts are that tight in the chest, but I still wear them.
     

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