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Crepe/rubber soles. Properly welted?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by BrogueTrooper, Apr 26, 2013.

  1. BrogueTrooper

    BrogueTrooper Member

    Apr 26, 2013
    Firstly, hello to one and all. I'm a long-time lurker but first-time poster.

    I want to add a pair of suede desert boots to my collection. However, I have seen plenty of crepe or rubber soled boots from the likes of Grenson, Cheaney, Church etc that appear to have a welted construction, but no stitching is visible on the underside of the sole.

    Is this a standard construction for desert boots? Is the welt just for show, with the sole being glued in place, or do crepe soles have some sort of hidden stitching? I don't want to spend several hundred £ on a boot with glued soles, so any advice on this would be most appreciated.
  2. Dnslater

    Dnslater Well-Known Member

    Oct 26, 2012
    I have a pair of Clarks desert boots. Appears that there is a leather sole that is stitched/welted to the upper and footbed and then the Crepe is glued to the leather sole. They are a minimalist design with little structure but very comfortable.

    I would save your money and buy the Clarks if the more expensive brands make them the same way. I've seen a few people resole the Clarks DB with new Vibram soles and they look terrific.
  3. decogeo

    decogeo Active Member

    Apr 14, 2013
    New York
    I have a pair of chukka boots with a crepe rubber sole. The stitching is visible underfoot. Not sure the stitching could be hidden in a crepe sole though.
  4. Nick V.

    Nick V. Well-Known Member

    Nov 12, 2007
    If you can see the stitching from the top but not the bottom it's likely they were constructed using a "mid" or "slip" sole.
    The welt is stitched to the upper, the mid-sole is stitched to the welt, the sole is cemented to the mid-sole.

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