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Comparison of 6 BADLY Fitted Jackets

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by stephen, Sep 26, 2006.

  1. Ivan Kipling

    Ivan Kipling Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,114
    Joined:
    Aug 19, 2006
    I've said many times, that I stick with Giorgio Armani, in part because he is the ONLY couturier out of Milan, who understand even an approximation of the flou technique. It is NOT, easy to do. Only three coutuiers have mastered, flou: Vionnet, Balenciaga, and Saint Laurent. Nobody else. Givenchy came close, but his fits and designs couldn't compare to YSL'S. Far, far less complex or sophisticated. No contest between the two.

    I remember Slimane mostly for his skinny suits, which became KL'S obsession. Tom Ford did everything in his power, to destroy the fit at Saint Laurent. He showed spray on tight, clothes . . . hideous, impossible to sell, and cheap. My sources told me that at 80 percent off, they couldn't move Ford's merchandise. During the twenty odd years that I collected Saint Laurent, I had often to call locations all over the United States, to get the piece I wanted, in my sister's size. Half price, was the best I ever, could do.

    But, times change. Saint Laurent was tired. He was disillusioned. It was time for him to go.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. LabelKing

    LabelKing Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,745
    Joined:
    May 24, 2002
    Location:
    Constantinople
    In addition to Balenciaga's cut, the American Charles James was another absolutely superb couturier: [​IMG] He used to spend two months on each sleeve. He died in the Chelsea Hotel destitute, divorced, and obsessively reworking details on his past gowns, "borrowed" from his clients. James also found most female models to have hideous, protruding hips so he would source out young men to model the garments for him while he worked on them.
     

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