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Commissioning My First Bespoke Suit This Week

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by LokStock, Jul 8, 2012.

  1. LokStock

    LokStock Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 8, 2012
    So as you can tell (<<<<), I am new to this forum. I've been lurking some threads for the past few weeks and now I think I am knowledgeable enough to intelligently commission a suit (I freaking wish I came on here to learn all these things before I bought a couple of OTR suits back in Canada, since now I can see how horribly they fit me)

    I am currently in Hong Kong for a few months and as suggested by many, including many SFers, it is worth getting a bespoke suit while you're in town.

    I think I've settled for Peter Lee as my tailor, as he appears to have the best balance between price and quality (I am unlikely to be able to afford the likes of Chan or Sam or YWY)

    I am looking for a particular look. Something modern and slimmer looking, but not super skinny hipsterish. Although I may get criticized for this, I am going to go for the half canvas. I made that decision because of the price difference given that Peter wants HK$2000 (~$300US) more for canvased vs half-canvas for any given fabric.

    I think I am going to try to have peter attempt the following fit/shape in a navy color (I have not picked a fabric yet):

    http://www.ralphlauren.com/product/...2877459&ab=ln_men_cs2_suits&parentPage=family

    My biggest worry is making the jacket too short, since that seems to be the number one indicator of a clubby/hipsterish suit. What length should be aiming for to get the above mentioned look without it looking too fashion forward.

    Also, I'd appreciate any other instructions I could give Peter, specifically in terms of shoulder shape/construction as I do not want to boxy of a look.

    Any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Especially, if you could suggest another fit/shape similar to the one I posted that you think looks better.

    I also have two questions:

    1) Do you think the cut of the trouser (and the suit in general for that matter) is appropriate for law interviews, as in, is it not too skinny?

    2) Would Peter be able to do (some pretty major) alterations to two existing suits I have? If not, can you recommend a knowledgeable tailor in HK that could help me out.

    Anyways, I will try to update you guys on the progress and provide a critique once the process is underway.

    Cheers!
     
  2. LokStock

    LokStock Member

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  3. Maccimus

    Maccimus Well-Known Member

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    Shanghai
    You should raise your questions directly to the tailor himself. Tailoring is a flexible business.
     
  4. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    Lee does alternation, give him a shout and he will cast you the price list.

    The styling of the RL suit is absolutely fine for any industry.

    Are you a local Chinese?
     
  5. LokStock

    LokStock Member

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    No I am from Canada
     
  6. LokStock

    LokStock Member

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    What do you think about the button stance? do you think it should be lower? or will that throw off the balance of the suit?
     
  7. rlx

    rlx Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 14, 2006
    If you have the build of a model, the cut of that suit would work in a law firm environment. Otherwise, no.
     
  8. dorolf07

    dorolf07 Well-Known Member

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    New York
    The button stance of the suit in the picture is just right, conservative enough for a corporate environment.
     
  9. boyle3000

    boyle3000 Member

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    Jul 11, 2012
    Location:
    Dallas
    The picture of the man in a suit looks good as it is, the question is will it look good on you?
     
  10. LokStock

    LokStock Member

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    Well I am in my 20s, 6 feet tall and fairly skinny, so I dont see why it shouldnt.
     
  11. Rizzy

    Rizzy Member

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    The Great White North
    If you're particularly skinny, anything with a strong shoulder like the RL suit you posted is going to look boxy, trust me, I'm the same shape.
     
  12. LokStock

    LokStock Member

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    Jul 8, 2012
    Yeah, I also thought the shoulders on that RLBL jacket didn't look so good, that why I asked my tailor to do softer shoulders. I am trying to avoid the boxy look.
     
  13. LokStock

    LokStock Member

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    Going for my first fitting today. Pretty excited. I hope everything runs smoothly.
     
    Last edited: Jul 17, 2012
  14. Lord Mulberry

    Lord Mulberry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    May 20, 2012
    Location:
    Sheffield / UK
    Ok, this is the more crucial fitting. Make sure the length of the sleeves and the overall length of the jacket are ok. Also make sure you get the placing of the top button correct as this may affect the fold of the lapel, collar and how the jacket hangs.
     
  15. jon54

    jon54 Member

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    The gabardiine suit seems ok and the button stance's height is perfect.
     
  16. LokStock

    LokStock Member

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    [​IMG]

    So I finally got my suit yesterday. There are a couple of things I didn't catch while I was at the tailors so I will have to go back to have some alterations done.

    What I caught with my novice eyes are the diagonal lines on my right back shoulder blade. I think that's from uneven shoulder heights, but I may be wrong.

    I also noticed that the pants are bunching up/wrinkling up too much as you can see in most of the pictures. What is the cause of that?

    Anyways...I am looking for some suggestions as to what should be altered as I have another week here in HK and would like to put the finishing touches on the suit before I leave.

    Any help would be apprecaited. Thanks!

    BTW, dont mind the shoes, I know they have to go. Also, I know the sleeve length of the shirt is a bit long.
     
  17. atila

    atila Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 5, 2010
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    The shirt sleeve length is not long, your jacket sleeves are way too short.

    edit: I'm no tailor, or pro, but the jacket looks a bit sloppy around the waist from the front view, is it you or is it too roomy in the front?
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012
  18. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

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    Not very good at all - I am surprised this was allowed out of the shop.

    Sleeves too short, back of jacket not clean, trousers just not a good fit through thigh and leg.

    Disappointing but maybe typical of Leem, may be he sensed a novice and did not pay attention at the forward fitting at which all this should have been picked up at the latest.
     
    Last edited: Jul 28, 2012
  19. LokStock

    LokStock Member

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    what needs to be done to fix the trousers?
     
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Washington, DC
    The sleeves look ok to me. The trousers just have the wrong balance or something, don't know what can be done to fix that. The jacket quarters/skirt is cut closed and square, which has given some people the willies. I don't think it's "wrong" necessarily, it's just not something that's particularly popular right now. The jacket might have short front balance too though, hard to tell from photos.
     

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