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Clothes for the Short Guy - Stores, Brands/Lines, Websites

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Jun 20, 2008.

  1. pseudonym

    pseudonym Well-Known Member

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    This is a good topic. Thanks for all the links and advice in here.

    Are there any pics of shorter guys wearing suits in MC? I'm looking around for a "how suits should fit" topic, but I can't find any. Thanks!
     
    1 person likes this.
  2. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Well-Known Member

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    ??? http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=174273


    as a short guy, there are a few areas I pay particular attention to. Armhole should be high to lengthen the body line, any pockets (breast, jacket) should be on the higher side (shorter torso visually makes longer leg line), maybe avoid ticket pockets since they another horizontal line, high gorge (notch or peak placement) plus lower button stance (bottom button just below or at the level of the pockets) to make a longer V shape, shorter jacket (just cover butt, depending on arm length IMO should hit at thumb joint instead of end of thumb), then sleeves should be on the shorter side to make it look like your arms are long. Pants - I don't like high rise, particularly when worn at the waist since you want a long inseam visually, so I say medium to short rise, in theory avoid cuffs but if it's dark fabric I don't think it matters as much, stick to proportionally sized cuffs (1.5+/-0.25) and minimal break, and pleats are a matter of body type.
    I suppose there might be other ideas like roped shoulders for vertical lines, capped sleeves to draw the eye upwards...

    dunno, that's all I can think of for now. anyone got other tips?
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Well-Known Member

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  4. GentlemanJohnny

    GentlemanJohnny Well-Known Member

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    Just finished perusing this forum topic and checked out a bunch of the links...thanks to everyone that contributed!

    2 things:

    I always chuckle on the inside when someone comments on being short and then reveals they are 5'6 or 5'8 or something like that...being 5'2 I'd give anything to be above 5'5 [​IMG]...not to disparage you guys...I just always assumed that when people said short they meant under 5'5.

    Also...for the guys on SF around my size plus or minus 2 inches (perhaps we fall into a sub-category of our own): there are lots of good descriptions of sizes and measurements but I never see any pictures of suits/formal shirts/dress pants/jeans/etc. being modeled by guys of our diminutive stature....do any of you guys know any sites that do this? I've checked out most of the links in this forum topic and others that cater to shorter gentlemen unfortunately those websites always have photos of guys who appear to be 5'6 or 5'8 or more so I can never really tell what the [product] would look like on me.

    So does anybody in the X-Short category know of any sites that have clothes or models targeting our demographic? Or does anybody with a well-established wardrobe have any pictures or self-shots that they could post? I've made do through high school and college and the last couple of years with XS department store OTR items that were tailored or larger childrens' sizes and am now starting to build a more mature wardrobe with high quality apparel tailored for guys our size.

    Thanks for the feedback!

    ~Johnny
     
  5. holymoly

    holymoly Well-Known Member

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    1 person likes this.
  6. GentlemanJohnny

    GentlemanJohnny Well-Known Member

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    5'3 huh? Close enough! Thanks...I'll give it a shot after Thanksgiving

    ~Johnny
     
  7. commonppl

    commonppl Member

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    This topic is great! As someone who is a novice at these things, material seems to be something that I haven't quite figured out yet. 34s are a nuisance to find, but boys 18 or 20 are easier to find. Ralph Lauren claims that the same wool fabric is used for both of these suits, while Brooks Brothers says they're using different.

    How steep is the drop off in quality from men's and boys generally? And in terms of cut, it sounds like most boys sizes are more boxy, traditional. If I wanted a more modern, slim cut, could a tailor fix that right up?
     
  8. themodestman

    themodestman Well-Known Member

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    Washington, DC
    Hey,

    I have tried Peter Manning's chinos, weekend shirt (button down) and polo, and I love them! I've heard the jeans are great too, but haven't tried those yet.

    I actually interviews Peter on my blog (see signature). Check it out if you'd like. There aren't many clothiers who focus on us shorter gents besides Manning and Jimmy Au (and his son, Alan), so make sure to send some business their way!

    -Brock
     
  9. devo666

    devo666 Member

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    Apr 19, 2012
    These are some great tips. Think a book I read, maybe Alan Flusser's Dressing the Man, covered a lot of these.

    Also, maybe besom pockets instead of flapped. Helps preserve the vertical lines and trimmer silhouette.
     
  10. devo666

    devo666 Member

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    How does his stuff fit widthwise? I've looked and was worried that it might be kind of boxy on me...or just not tapered the right way for my build. I'm 5' 6/7" (depending on the day) and weigh ~155. Have a fairly athletic build - usually wear a 38s jacket and have a 29/30 waist. I typically buy trim/slim fit clothes but a lot of times they're longer than I like for shirts and jackets.

    By the way guys, if anyone has a similar build, I really like Levi's 513 slim fit jeans (or 514 if you prefer something straighter-legged/less tapered). I used to buy Earnest Sewn but got tired of spending that much on jeans. Levi's are cheap, fit well and have a fair amount of style/color options. They can be kind of tight in the thighs on me, but not unwearable (as long as I don't machine dry them and don't go too crazy on the squat rack. I like my clothes pretty slim, anyway). Docker's Alpha Khakis are also great for the same reason.
     
  11. charliebrown2

    charliebrown2 Well-Known Member

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    May 16, 2012
    Looking for pants sized 31x28ish. Most department store retailers only offer length as low as 31x30 and then I have to get 'em cut, which is a little annoying (waste of time and the extra cost).

    I looked at the petermanning link above and although they do offer more sizes, seems out of my comfortable budget. Looking for other sources that are more "economical". Thanks.
     
  12. Bonggoy

    Bonggoy Well-Known Member

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  13. irgendwas

    irgendwas Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Austria
    Tucking in the pocket flaps makes flapped pockets look similar to besom pockets.

    I am 5'4" with a 34" chest and a 29" waist. Shortening sleeves or trouser legs is nearly always necessary.
    As I can't find good-looking and affordable trousers that fit my waist (I mostly wear chinos/corduroys/moleskins/...), I look for trousers with a split waistband.
    Knitwear is my biggest problem as alterations are difficult.
    Small socks are available from Calze Vitrano (http://www.calzevitrano.com). Their smallest size equates to EU37-38/UK5/US6, which would even be too small for my feet.
    Short people should avoid anything pre-distressed as the distressing will be on the wrong position. I would still avoid anything pre-distressed even if it fits because I don't like pre-distressing.

    Finding clothes that fit me is my only major problem with being short as most other things have a unisex design and I am not ashamed of my stature.
     
  14. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

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    Suits and shirts can provide problems. Luckily for us, shoes are not that difficult.
     
  15. cfwu

    cfwu Member

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    Jun 13, 2013
    Location:
    Rome, Italy
    Very interesting thread.

    I'm 170cm. I usually buy shirts sized S or 39 15/half. I tried some shirts from Camicissima (being an Italian brand, we have a lot of their shops here in Italy), and the Slim and also Extra Slim shirts seems to be too much long. Same problem with the sleeves too much long and loose-fitting.
     
  16. coloRLOw

    coloRLOw Well-Known Member

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    about the sleeves and fit, take them to a tailor, shirts can be altered easily.
    i'm also 170cm, but don't suffer the shirts length yet
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. cfwu

    cfwu Member

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    Thank you for the suggestion :)
     
  18. youngcy

    youngcy Member

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    Oct 30, 2012
    Location:
    Fairfax, VA
    A heads up Peter Manning has some stuff on sale for 30% off. Shirts and chinos.

    About to pull the trigger on the oxfords but has anyone have any experience with his stuff?

    I am 5'5" 120lb. thinking size 1 will fit really well.
     
  19. chasro

    chasro Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 19, 2013
    Good thread. I have comments and questions.

    I'm 5'5 with an athletic build. I have legs like a running back, which makes finding pants with enough room in the seat tough.

    I've bought two Ted Baker sports coats in the past year from Nordstrom. They sell short sizes and the fits are good, though a tad bit small. My dress shirts mostly come from Charles Tywhitt (ctshirts.com). They will alter the sleeves for you and I believe the shirt length as well. Good quality shirts, though you need to buy three to four to get the good prices. I have also bought custom shirts from My Tailor and have been pleased with them.

    Now for the question: what do you all do for sweaters? I'm always having to fold up the cuffs on any sweater I buy.

    I've tried Peter Manning once and though the sweater seemed to be of good quality, I didn't like the fit. The length was great, but the fit was loose around the body. I wish he had a more of a traditional sizing system or at least a way of comparing chest & sleeve size to traditional systems. I will say that Peter was good about answering questions and emails and I would consider giving him another try at some point in the future. The return process was no hassle.

    Any help on the sweater issue would be great.

    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Aug 20, 2013
  20. themodestman

    themodestman Well-Known Member

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    Did you buy these? Just wondering because at 120 lbs you might be too thin for his stuff, which seems to be constructed for more of an average build. (I had to get his weekend shirt taken in, for example.)

    -B
     

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