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Chainstitching thread

Discussion in 'Streetwear and Denim' started by LA Guy, Apr 15, 2008.

  1. nauqneyugn

    nauqneyugn Member

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    The asian shoe guy at UVillage is crazy. When I went in to buy some shoe cream, he was covered with shoe polish or something. :p

    Overall nice guy though.
     
  2. idlewild

    idlewild Well-Known Member

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    Does chainstitching really make that much of a difference? I mean seriously its the hem of your jeans.
     
  3. jet

    jet Well-Known Member

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    The stitch is responsible for the roping effect apparently so if you want your jeans to look like slacks then I suppose it's no big deal.
     
  4. j

    j Well-Known Member

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    I don't see how that can be true considering how many mass market jeans have no chainstitched hem, yet show roping. Unless you're talking about some other kind of magic roping than I'm thinking of. Roping AFAIK is just caused by the denim shrinking around the seam - same as on the side seams, felled seams, and everywhere else there's a seam.
     
  5. jet

    jet Well-Known Member

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    Not sure that's why I said apparently, I knew some forum cop would try and call me out on it. Isn't there a little slack in the links which tightens or some shit after washing inducing the roping or am I just high as fuck.
     
  6. mimesis

    mimesis Well-Known Member

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    A quick look in the Demin terminology thread produced no listing for 'roping' wtf is it? Self edge: "Also, with a chainstitch your hem will form a beautiful roping effect after time due to the opposite pull of denim during washing/shrinking. Wabi-Sabi Indeed." is it this? [​IMG]
     
  7. HEWSINATOR

    HEWSINATOR Well-Known Member

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    My parents got rid of a singer looking like the one above a while ago (less the billion looking needles). I seem to recall reading somewhere that there is chainstiching like we are after and chainstitching like those old machines did- a different stitch all together. I certainly can be wrong though. I seem to be rambling, but I think the following do a chainstitch but a different one than we are after...?

    It was looked like these, but was pedal powered:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Vintage-Singer-F...QQcmdZViewItem
    http://cgi.ebay.com/Antique-1930s-Si...ayphotohosting
     
  8. HEWSINATOR

    HEWSINATOR Well-Known Member

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    is it this?

    Yes.
     
  9. kiya

    kiya Well-Known Member

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    Hello all..
    Welcome to Denim Mythbusters volume 2.

    There's definitely some confusion to be had.. and let me try and clear some things up.
    Two things lead to a roping effect.
    1. A chainstitched hem
    2. Selvedge denim

    You only need one to achieve a roping effect, unsanforized selvedge denim will produce the strongest roping effect, especially if it's been chainstitched.
    Selvedge denim, once washed, will pull in opposite directions due to the single weft thread which "tightens" as it shrinks in one direction. Broken twill denim was invented by Lee seventy years ago to combat this roping (and leg twist) that we love so much. Broken twill denim shows no leg twist OR roping, unless it was chainstitched.
    Now on to the chainstitching.. there are multiple ways to chainstitch a hem. The true original way would be use a Union Special machine WITH the hemming attachment which pulls the denim in opposite directions as it pulls it through the machine. If the jeans are hemmed with a machine using this special attachment, and your jeans are selvedge, chances are you'll have the most intense roping effect possible on your jeans.
     
  10. xchen

    xchen Well-Known Member

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    I was looking at my RRLs which are chainstitched today closely, and will say that the stitch litterally looks like chainlinks up close. RRLs have a lot in common with some of the other repro companies so a lot of the detailing is similar, such as hidden rivets and chainstitched hems.
     
  11. iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    A quick look in the Demin terminology thread produced no listing for 'roping' wtf is it?

    Self edge: "Also, with a chainstitch your hem will form a beautiful roping effect after time due to the opposite pull of denim during washing/shrinking. Wabi-Sabi Indeed."

    is it this? [​IMG]


    that is intense
     
  12. totally epic

    totally epic Well-Known Member

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    Well, not that we need more pictures, but here are my Dior MIJs w/ pretty decent roping. [​IMG]
     
  13. Halifamous

    Halifamous Well-Known Member

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    For those of us in Canada, as far as I kow, Sydneys on Queen St. in Toronto has the only chainstitch machine in the dominion.
     
  14. borntoolate

    borntoolate Member

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    for the record, i called 45rpm in nyc a few weeks ago and they said no go on chainstitching your byo jeans...
     
  15. constant struggle

    constant struggle Well-Known Member

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    damn, big doesn't either anymore right?
    no 45rpm, no big, who in NYC does it??????

    i can't ever buy a long inseam again~ oh noes my selvedge chianstichies
     
  16. Sigmatic

    Sigmatic Well-Known Member

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    FWIW, i just got my rescues back from Jaime's in the north bay (SF) and they did a pretty damn good job.

    i dropped off 4 shirts to get darted with the jeans so i don't know what the chainstitching costs, but the grand total was $61, so that's pretty good either way..
     
  17. bant

    bant Well-Known Member

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    for the record, i called 45rpm in nyc a few weeks ago and they said no go on chainstitching your byo jeans...

    45rpm UES does chainstitch jeans from other makers or at least they did a month ago...
     
  18. ctrlaltelite

    ctrlaltelite Well-Known Member

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    okay, so here's the deal. i live in d.c., mauro says there's no capable chainstitchers for miles, and well, of course i believe him.

    called BiG and they said they don't chainstitch outside jeans. i'll be in NY mon-wed next week, so what are my options, and how much am i looking at to get them shipped back to me?
     
  19. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Well-Known Member

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    Nope, we also charge $15.

    K, will you guys chainstitch stuff that gets sent to you by mail, or only walk-ins.

    Thanks.

    - B
     
  20. kiya

    kiya Well-Known Member

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    K, will you guys chainstitch stuff that gets sent to you by mail, or only walk-ins.

    Thanks.

    - B


    Only walk-ins.. It's $15 each pair, then $10 to mail them to you if you're not local.
     

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