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Camiceria Le Tre M - Naples, Italy

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by P-K-L, Apr 10, 2013.

  1. P-K-L

    P-K-L Well-Known Member

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    On my recent trip to Napoli I decided to try out a new shirtmaker since I had some difficulties with my old one - his shirts are great but the waiting time between the ordering and the receiving was a bit too long for me. I always like to read reports from other members, so I tried to give it a shot myself...

    After having talked to a fellow member I got the hint that there is a shirtmaking operation on Via A. Ciccone, right opposite Cacciopoli, in the same building as G. Volpe.

    [​IMG]

    I went there last Saturday and the street looked just like on the picture above. We were standing in front of the door bell panel and were searching for the right bell when a voice from the balcony on the first floor asked whether we are looking for Gianni Volpe - I replied that I am looking for the camiceria and as it turned out, these ladies were the actual shirt makers. From Monday to Friday there is a concierge working in the building, so it will be easier to find them.

    We went in and were greeted in a very friendly way by Maria/ Mary, the one who runs the operation, with home-made coffee and some chitchat. Both my friend and I wanted to order shirts, however the difficulty was that my friend was leaving the next day. We came to the solution that they copy and slightly modify the bespoke shirt he was wearing, which already had a good fit. I was able to go through the whole fitting process, but I will write more about that later.

    Next up we started to choose the fabrics - due to the physical proximity to Cacciopoli she has lots of fabric books from them. She is very transparent about the pricing, as she charges separately for the work itself and the fabric cost on top. The offered fabrics range from €11 to ~€40 per meter. She said that she does not stock any Riva since it is not very high demand with her clientele and the tied capital would be too high for that.

    [​IMG]

    After that we made the next appointment for me on Monday, wished each other her a nice weekend and went for a Pizza lunch - Da Michele and Trianon are nearby in case you leave the place very hungry.

    [​IMG]

    On Monday I returned to the place and my fitting was ready - the sample shirt was made of (I suppose) old overstock and had one sleeve and a real collar attached. I guess they use that collar for all 39cm necks.

    During the first stage of the fitting Maria worked on the defects which she saw, then ripped the shirt apart, recut and re-sew it.

    Next I put the shirt on again and talked about my preferences, I had her enlarge the chest a bit and gave her some further direction, after which she ripped the shirt apart again, recut and re-sew it in order for me to try it on for the third time. Overall I was very satisfied with the fitting process.

    Now she promised to finish the shirts within the next 2 weeks and they will find their way to me. Once I will get them, I will post further pictures of the fit and finishing of the shirts.

    One thing should be mentioned though, she cannot organise international shipping, so it is either up to the client to arrange shipping or - as in my case - she will get in touch with your tailor who will ship it all together.

    Unfortunately I did not take any pictures during the fitting process, I guess I was too concentrated on the process itself, haha! Nevertheless I would like to show you some more pictures of the camiceria:

    Entrance Area
    [​IMG]

    The workshop:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Me and the ladies :) (disclaimer: the seemingly short jacket sleeve on the first picture is just ridden up...)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Contacts:

    [​IMG]

    I hope that you enjoyed my little field report!
     
    6 people like this.
  2. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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    They have definetely improved the place since I was last there
     
  3. P-K-L

    P-K-L Well-Known Member

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    There was no smell of fresh paint :D
     
  4. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Seriously, how many tailors and shirtmakers are there in Naples?? A new one seems to crop up every week.

    Nice report - thanks for the write-up.
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2013
  5. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Well-Known Member

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    You should post some fit pictures PKL! Nice find, btw.

    I seem to recall the folks at Cacciopolli speaking about a shirt-maker (lady) located near the shop, and near Volpe. I think it might well be this lady whom they were speaking about.
     
  6. P-K-L

    P-K-L Well-Known Member

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    Fit pictures will come once the shirts will be with me - I suppose this will be by the end of April.
     
  7. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Well-Known Member

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    Great walk-through P-K-L! Thanks for sharing- I look forward to the finished pics.
     
  8. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Well-Known Member

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    It's not the tailors who just pop-up, it's us SF guys who discover what the locals have known for years! I know that all of us are always glad to learn about another option in town! Not sure if I can get to see them all, but having a few alternatives to the high-dollar big name shops is fantastic!
     
  9. andreyb2

    andreyb2 Well-Known Member

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    The place was even worse than this? :hide:

    Seriously, not to rain on your parade -- and the final shirts might be fantastic -- but what I saw so far doesn't look too good... I'm not speaking on shirts (there are none), but on general approach.

    Andrey
     
  10. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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    It is an honest, affordable options for bespoke shirt operation. Yes the place was worst before, n now is still not a "sartoria" level place, but it does not need to be. Most traditional camiciaia in Naples would have a similar set up, if not even working within her own house and dedicate a room to clients fitting and workroom.

    Her shirts generally fit well as far as I have seen, maybe construction could have been better in the past but potentially has improved since (2010-11 last I know).

    For the price you cannot do a lot better...
     
  11. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    I agree. The place looks reminiscent to me of other manufacturing stores like Geneva and CEGO. The place isn't much to look at but it cuts out the middleman. I haven't been to the new Geneva location though . . .
     
  12. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Well-Known Member

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    The price point is why the shop looks the way it does. Anna Matuozzo charges more than double for her shirts, but she also has a beautiful shop.

    Not everyone can have a closet full of $525 shirts, so it's nice to have options at a lower price point. I can not comment on the shirt's quality- but I also can not judge it from pictures of the workshop in which they will be made.
     
  13. andreyb2

    andreyb2 Well-Known Member

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    To clarify my comment -- I'm not speaking on how posh / not posh the shop is.

    What I saw on the pictures looks like a very amateurish operation... just a couple of girls who decided to call themselves a camiceria.

    Granted, I'm not a shirtmaker myself, so what do I know?

    Andrey
     
  14. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Well-Known Member

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    Andreyb2,
    Your comments are welcomed, at least by me. I think we all welcome a broad spectrum of opinion on the subject of bespoke clothing. This shirt maker is unknown to most of us and they will have to earn the stamp of approval of a few members before they become a SF household name- or not.

    I have a suspicion that they have been making shirts since they were 12, probably learning from their mother, Aunt, Grandmother, etc. But what really matters (and I know you will agree) is how the finished product looks and fits. I think we will learn everything we need to know when we see the shirts!

    PKL is expecting the shirts at the end of the month and I know he will update with pics and a review. If everything works out I think I will follow his steps and go for a visit myself and contribute to the dialog.

    -Cheers!
     
  15. add911_11

    add911_11 Well-Known Member

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    :lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol::lol:
     
  16. P-K-L

    P-K-L Well-Known Member

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    I am happy that you share your opinion - but you also know what they say about opinions... ;)

    The fitting process went really well and everything else can be only said once the finished shirts will be there.
     
  17. gambit50

    gambit50 Well-Known Member

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    Andreyb, as far as the 'look' of the actual operating facility that is required to make the finest shirting in all the world, what do you think is required? Are there a few expensive sewing machines that can be purchased? Yes. Are they necessary? No.
    I do not know these shirts, they may be great, decent or complete rubbish but your comment smacks of Russian tastes requiring that if expensive and they pay a high rent and have spent a lot of money to dazzle you, it must be great.
    Label whoring is the way. And even then, usually not done well which is all the more sad.
    Most do not come off like Victor.


    The only part of your statement that was extra sensible was 'what do I know?'. Take more heed of that.


    May be they are a couple of girls who decided to name themselves a camiceria but, really, what is any maker?
    Lack of rep, etc. I can understand if you would not take the risk of an unknown(which they might or might not be in Napoli, itself)
    but there are many shops there and in other cities that you and almost nobody(or completely nobody) on SF knows who are good, very good, perhaps great. They don't have uber fine ateliers. That is how it is.
     
  18. Rafael44

    Rafael44 Member

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    Hi,
    Trying to work out the cost per shirt, How much does she charge for the making, and how many meters per shirt do you need ?
    Thanks,
    R
     
  19. marcodalondra

    marcodalondra Well-Known Member

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    Phil can confirm better but I believe the CMT cost with hand details is 70 euro. A 6 ft tall man requires 180-200 cm of 150cm wide shirting and 270-300cm of 90cm wide shirting
     
    Last edited: Jul 12, 2013
  20. Rafael44

    Rafael44 Member

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    thanks, so anywhere from around EUR85 to EUR150 for complete shirt ?
    Has PKL put up any photos or posts about the completed shirts?
     

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