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Brooks Brothers' Gatsby Collection

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mossrockss, Apr 15, 2013.

  1. ww21943

    ww21943 Well-Known Member

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  2. Recoil

    Recoil Well-Known Member

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    I saw the whole collection in store - it is a bit costumey but I really like it. Unfortuantely, it's unlikely I would ever be able to pull it off. There are a few odd items like a sweater, ties, bow ties, pants and shirts that you could work into your regular rotation, but the jackets and suits are too bold for the average joe, myself included. Not to mention there is no love for american style in Toronto. So on top of having vey few places to wear such items, it's likely no one up here would get it if you did wear them.
     
    Last edited: Apr 20, 2013
  3. AlexE

    AlexE Well-Known Member

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    Just seen the collection online for the first time...would be nice to see it in a store too, but will likely not make it to the US before this "spectacle" is over again.

    There are some nice examples in the collection (ivory linen suit, khaki wool & linen suit, the tie bar tennis collar shirts) and obviously some things which are over the top (guess the pink pin-stripe suit can be worn only at costume parties). Not saying that I like all the detailing (not sure about the combination of 3-roll-2 buttons with a peak lapel), but at least BB is trying something different and some things could serve as an inspiration for future orders at a custom tailor.

    By the way: The fact that BB cannot achieve 100% accurate replications of 1920s tailoring should be clear since economics forces them to base the collection on their standard suit cuts, which unfortunately come by default with heavier shoulder padding. I really cannot understand the complaints about pricing: $996 for a half canvased made-in-usa suit sounds not so bad (especially since you can always apply the 15% corporate membership discount such that the price is rather around $850).
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2013
  4. kv18schn

    kv18schn Member

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    Really sucks being stuck at school right now with no BB within 100 miles. The clothing on-line is on point, especially some of the ties. The prices, however, are a bit steep and am hoping to see if I can place an order on the phone for a bow tie or something. The green shawl is an absolute, just maybe $50 cheaper.
     
  5. kv18schn

    kv18schn Member

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    I really like this one, especially in the bow. Hopefully a store has it, as it appears to have sold out on-line.
     
  6. ww21943

    ww21943 Well-Known Member

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    I was afraid they would sell out of items quick so I ordered as soon as the clock struck midnight on the 18th when the 20% off sale started.
     
  7. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    I'd recommend not drying any of your dress shirts—I hang all my shirts to dry, and that's the generally accepted practice around here and the style blogs. Your shirts will last longer and you'll reduce any chance of shrinking. For a guy like me who isn't buying shirts more than $80 retail usually, it's especially a good idea not to dry any of them.

    I'm totally jealous, by the way, I really want that club collar shirt. I bought the unlined-collar OCBD, however, so I've spent more than I should have already, haha.
     
  8. musicmax

    musicmax Well-Known Member

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    I think my grandfather had a bow tie almost exactly like this.

    Looks like both the bow and long versions are out-of-stock online at the moment. It's weird that when something is out-of-stock it just totally disappears from the website (I noticed this phenomenon with a Red Fleece dress that a SA is bringing in-store for my wife). Why not just say "call your SA" or "check back soon"?
     
  9. Master Squirrel

    Master Squirrel Well-Known Member

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    Some items appear to be selling out.
     
  10. ww21943

    ww21943 Well-Known Member

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    I have a lot of non-iron shirt so those always go in the dryer. I've started keeping my all cotton shirts and sweaters out of the dryer, despite what the tag says.
    I wonder if they will restock sold out items as I think this collection is supposed to be limited.
     
  11. 518aata

    518aata Well-Known Member

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    I just read the first of a four-part series on PTO on the Golden Era of Oxfords. http://putthison.com/post/47706678968/the-ocbd-shirt-series-part-ii-the-golden-era

    The article includes a BB OCBD from 1949. Its features are strikingly similar to the Gatsby white OCBD -- no chest pocket, six buttons, and side-gussets. It looks like the original had a box pleat, rather than pleats/shirring on two sides, but I can't tell for sure from the picture.

    In any event, it looks like Brooks may have dug into its archives and produced a slimmed-down version of its OCBD from sixty years ago, but priced it the same as its regular oxfords, rather than charging $150. . . .
     
  12. Recoil

    Recoil Well-Known Member

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    ^^ Excellent blog posting on OCBD.
     
  13. Lafont

    Lafont Well-Known Member

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    Tuxedo looked good at first impression - partly due to its peaked lapels and particularly its grossgrain lapels. I never see those except in one of our vintage clothing places in Cleveland - Chelsy's. But with further study I find the jacket is too low a price to be really good quality, and now I hear it has patch pockets and a center vent - horrors! Well, maybe there's some authenticity here with 20's menswear - I'd have to have more information. But in regard with what I believe in today these are no-no's for such formal attire.
     
    Last edited: May 2, 2013
  14. musicmax

    musicmax Well-Known Member

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    BB or your own tailor should be able to sew up the vent and remove the patches.
     
  15. Lafont

    Lafont Well-Known Member

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  16. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    Here is the OCBD with a tie.

    It's my first wearing of this shirt.

    [​IMG][​IMG]
     
    2 people like this.
  17. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    Look nice. I'll be interested to hear your thoughts at day's end. The one I tried on seemed very wrinkly, even by must-iron standards, but maybe that's because it was fresh from the bag.

    I'll also be curious to hear how much it shrinks. The collar sizing is bizarre. I now require three different sizes in Brooks shirts -- my normal size in traditional fit, longer arm length in slim-fit and now a smaller collar size in this one. Wish Brooks would get its act together. I've ordered one of the Gatsby shirts, but I'm still leery, as the sleeves could end up too short and the collar too big.
     
  18. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    So, in the store, this 16.5/35 was huge on my neck. The 16/34 fit me perfectly. But I knew that it'd shrink. I washed it in hot last night and it did a bit—I figure it'll be perfect in about 4-5 months after having worn it in a bit and washed it a bunch.

    I found that my standard BB OCBDs looked really bad with a collar until I broke them in a bit—maybe it was my imagination, but it sure seemed that way. I imagine this will be the case with this shirt as well.

    All that said, without a tie, this is bar none the best OCBD I own in terms of collar roll (the others being the normal one BB offers, though in extra slim fit). It looks like this, though from what I understand, this guy's had slightly longer collar points:
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 26, 2013
  19. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    So you went with 16.5? That's interesting. My usual size was enormous on me and I've sized down. Based on your report, I may need to reconsider that. But there's no way I could wear a tie with my normal size, at least not without significant shrinkage first.

    How's the wrinkling so far?
     
  20. mossrockss

    mossrockss Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, 16.5—well you can see it's still a bit big on me. I sometimes wonder how much of these issues are mediocre QA on BB's part and how much are consistent sizing differences?
    I'm also guessing that the lack of lining in this shirt collar makes it fit slightly larger than their lined OCBDs. My year-old OCBDs are a little snug now—within the realm of wearable, but definitely slightly more snug than when new. So that's why I was confident enough to go with the 16.5 instead of the 16. Long-term shrinkage, etc.

    The sleeves seem more wrinkly, but actually this one seems less wrinkly overall than my regular white OCBD—I avoided wearing that one for a while, because it was just so damn wrinkly. But I was unfairly comparing to my blue one, which can be worn almost without ironing and look great because it's more casual in appearance, just by virtue of it being blue.

    All said, I never wear even my regular white OCBD on its own—it's always with a jacket. It just doesn't look good on me jacketless like my blue one does. So fit considerations and wrinkling considerations were less a consideration for me on this purchase.

    I'm also considering this a sort of dry run for contemplating purchasing a Mercer or possibly even MTM BB (which I hear you can request no lining in the collar on an order of an OCBD).

    [​IMG]

    The full ensemble, if you're so inclined to see it: http://menswearmusings.tumblr.com/post/48933921284/ft-brooks-brothers-gatsby-ocbd-rugby-rl-and
     

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