1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Borrelli shirts - really that good? Who really makes best shirts in world?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jclin10, Aug 5, 2009.

  1. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    19,128
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    I'm having Mina of NSM make me some shirts for the first time. I'm eager to try them out.
     
  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,355
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    

    +1.
     
  3. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    35,821
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2009
    Location:
    In The Hustle
    Remind me what NSM MTM shirts are running? 400?
     
  4. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    19,128
    Joined:
    Sep 18, 2007
    

    They aren't MTM. They make a pattern shirt for you from a generic cloth,tweak the fit on you, then you place an order. I believe it is $250 euros = or $330 at todays exchange rate.
     
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    8,355
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2011
    Location:
    Washington, DC
    What Gus said. I've got some quality MTM shirts from a good shop (not online, was measured in person). Based on the initial fitting with Mina, I anticipate these being markedly superior.
     
  6. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    35,821
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2009
    Location:
    In The Hustle
    


    ORLY. Hmmmm.
     
  7. steveoly

    steveoly Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    675
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2007
    Location:
    Omaha, NE
    

    Regarding the buttons, here are a couple of pictures of a new Borrelli :confused:
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I don't know exactly what retail is nowadays but these new ones which appear 100% machine made and have plastic buttons can be had for around $100. I frankly like the trim fit and the collar, but they're so far below "old" Borrelli quality. For RTW, I prefer Finamore or Barba from Shop the Finest.
     
  8. earthdragon

    earthdragon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,723
    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2006
    I'm pretty happy with my Kiton's (new arrival) - beautiful fabric and a ton of great stitching.
    These and Finamore & Attolini are pretty much my wardrobe these days....
    [​IMG][​IMG][​IMG][​IMG]
     
  9. jerrybrowne

    jerrybrowne Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,899
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2009
    

    Very nice.
     
  10. marblehouse

    marblehouse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,708
    Joined:
    May 17, 2009
    Location:
    never odd or even
    

    Surprised by this; can't imagine Borrelli is using plastic in their mainline shirts.



    +1. The new Borrellis I've handled are definitely MOP (albeit smaller).



    Old (very) Borrelli

    [​IMG] [​IMG]


    New money Borrelli


    [​IMG] [​IMG]
    [​IMG]





     
  11. steveoly

    steveoly Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    675
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2007
    Location:
    Omaha, NE
    That Kiton is awesome, ED.

    Yeah, it's surprising indeed. I also have the two types of Borrelli shirts that you posted. It seems they're on the decline. I still love me some older Borrelli - Super Sak and Royal Collection are awesome.
     
  12. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,319
    Joined:
    Sep 16, 2010
    Location:
    Omaha
    Does the Borrelli with the plastic buttons have the fleur de lis stitching?

    To be honest, if the choice is between newer Borrelli with thinner MOP buttons, or finamore/barba at the same price, I would grab the finamore/barba just to be safe (plus I love fat MOP buttons) This is assuming you are buying online and cannot touch/feel the shirts in question.
     
  13. steveoly

    steveoly Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    675
    Joined:
    Jul 24, 2007
    Location:
    Omaha, NE
    Nope. Standard stitching. IIRC crows feet stitching can only be done by hand. This new shirt has zero signs of handwork.
     
  14. Simplicio

    Simplicio Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    532
    Joined:
    Aug 24, 2010
    Location:
    Deseret
    

    If you've bought bespoke T&A shirts I'd be interested to hear if it is possible to have them made in a slim fit.
     
  15. doughboysc

    doughboysc Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    472
    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2004
    Location:
    Greenwood,South Carolina USA
    I've never own a T&A bespoke shirt before. I like to buy a half dozen bespoke shirts for my first order when I plan to go to NYC. But, I've got some fabric swatches. Very neat and colorful!
     
  16. taxgenius

    taxgenius Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,745
    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2007
    

    I would assume so.
     
  17. marblehouse

    marblehouse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,708
    Joined:
    May 17, 2009
    Location:
    never odd or even
    

    Would you mind telling us when/where you purchased these shirts? I have yet to see any Borrelli mainline shirt without both MOP and crow's feet stitching.
     
  18. F. Corbera

    F. Corbera Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,908
    Joined:
    Sep 30, 2010
    There are some persistent mythologies in this thread.

    First, nothing on a Borrelli (old school), Barba, Finamore, Kiton, etc. shirt is attached "by hand" sewing except for the buttons. For that you would need to see someone like Matuozzo and even with her, you would have to pay dearly and make it clear that is what you want. Even the shoulders, with their visible shirring, on a Borrelli, Barba, Finamore, etc. shirt are not attached "by hand."

    All the seams on the RTW Neapolitan numbers are sewn by machine. Period. Again, nothing is not "attached by hand" except the buttons.

    What people are seeing are the lap seams and buttonholes being finished by hand, and sometimes the edges. This work can be very finely done (as is the case with most Kiton shirts) or it can be done more sloppily (or carefree, if you prefer) as on Borrellis pre-company-restructuring. In the case of the seams, it is purely decorative. In the case of the buttonholes, it can be argued but not really demonstrated that the embroidery is more flexible (this might be true, but it is undone by the sample-to-sample variation in how each seamstress finishes each buttonhole...some holes are too small, some too large, and others just right. Some seamstresses are good; some are bad. Luck of the draw.) A hand attached button should normally be superior, since it can be shanked.

    NSM shirts are made in a similar way to the RTW Neapolitan makers. It is a machine sewn shirt with various levels of hand-sewn finishing, depending on the level of such features you elect to buy. SF member marcolondra has some good descriptions of this system in some of his threads...basically, in Naples, the more you pay, the more of the shirt can be sewn by hand.

    Mina has a good eye for fit and a focus on pleasing her customers, so that is where the value comes in as well as the choices in fabric.
     
    Last edited: Apr 29, 2012
    2 people like this.
  19. ethanm

    ethanm Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,614
    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2011
    Location:
    أرض العزم
    You mean the little booklet that comes with Borrellis is a lie? [​IMG]

    As long as it's accurate that only little Italian women make the shirts I'm OK with it.
     
  20. marblehouse

    marblehouse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,708
    Joined:
    May 17, 2009
    Location:
    never odd or even
    

    I can already see the next titan to fall...

    Cucita a mano: Made by machine. Price tag attached by hand.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by