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Bookster jackets - questions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by BareSolid, Jan 6, 2010.

  1. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,319
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    Sep 16, 2010
    Location:
    Omaha
    Gentlemen, I contacted Bookster recently and asked about the possibility of making a jacket with softer shoudlers. Here is the response :)

    Hi Achilles,

    Don't worry about the questions, that's what we are here for.

    We can soften the shoulders of our jackets - they are sent to our more bespoke tailor and we use thinner pads.

    I hope this helps and if you would like any other information, please feel free to get in touch again.

    Many thanks

    Heidi

    BOOKSTER
    The Granary
    Hildersley Farm
    Ross-on-Wye
    HR9 7NW
    United Kingdom
    Tel: +44 (0)1989 562212
    www.tweed-jacket.com
     
  2. Minarchist

    Minarchist Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    152
    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2011
    Location:
    Nashvegas, TN
    Good to know. I'd really like to pick up a tweed 3-piece and have been looking at some of their stuff lately.

    What kind of weight for tweed would most people suggest for Tennessee? Usually we're somewhere between 20-50 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter. I was thinking a mid-light weight to combat the office heater, but I don't really know for sure.
     
  3. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,874
    Joined:
    May 10, 2005
    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    I think that several of the inquiries for soft, or softer shoulders is testing the issue of
    "house style" Theoretically, a good bespoke or even made to measure tailor can
    make any style. However, I wouldn't go to Huntsman on SR and ask them
    to make a jacket that looks like it came from Rubinacci or Solito in Naples.
    Based on their Website, Bookster advertises a look that is the polar opposite
    of soft or natural shoulders. Proceed at your own risk.

    As for the appropriate fabric weight for Tennessee, again Bookster may have
    some lighter fabrics, but their website displays heavy(probably stiff ) tweeds,
    perfect for a cold wet climate with little central heating. And even in the British
    Isles, central heating has become ubiquitous in recent decades. Correct?
     
  4. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Well-Known Member

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    Omaha
    

    I wondered about that as well, and even asked for their advice on the matter. As you can see the response did not address whether or not this would be abnormal, but I think I will ask them again. That would be my biggest worry about ordering. I wish I could send for a trial jacket, but the postage would be ridiculous!
     
  5. Boswell

    Boswell Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 7, 2011
    How low are the arm holes on these jackets?
     
  6. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,874
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    Location:
    Menlo Park, CA
    

    Are you wedded to the English Country Look which Bookster empasizes? , eg. hacking jackets,
    heavy tweeds, etc. If not, two good sources of tweeds with a more Ivy or natural shoulder
    style are available RTW and MTM may be found at the Andover Shop and O'Connells.

    http://theandovershop.com/
    http://shop.oconnellsclothing.com/

    If you get New York, SF -Affiliate, Winston Tailors( Chipp) can make you exactly what you
    want MTM or Bespoke. Their fabric selection is excellent and Paul Winston is a pleasure
    to deal with.
     
  7. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Well-Known Member

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    I'm afraid my budget is restricted, so bookster is the preferred price range.
     
  8. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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    In that case, I would comb through B&S and e Bay, etc. before spending your money
    on the promise that an MTM operation nearly five thousand miles away will "soften"
    the very big shoulders of their House Style to your satisfaction. My guess is that you'll
    be disappointed.
     
  9. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Well-Known Member

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    I am very wary. I may just order their normal jacket in the end.

    I have my eye on some used tweed jackets, but the staples I want are hard to come by.

    I agree though, I will definitely be trying out a used tweed jacket to see how I like it in person. Probably a cheap Harris tweed. :)
     
  10. Marcellionheart

    Marcellionheart Well-Known Member

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    Berlin
    My advice would be to nail down your fit in their house style before altering the shoulders.
     
  11. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Well-Known Member

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    I'm leaning towards that. :)

    I received a picture of a jacket with softer shoulders that they made. Thoughts?

    [​IMG]

    I also ordered some tweed swatches, I picked out my favourites and snapped a picture. It should be noted that the brown herringbone has flecks of green in it.

    [​IMG]
     
  12. comrade

    comrade Well-Known Member

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    Those indeed are "softer shoulders" then their "House Style", as shown in their WebSte ,
    but they're hardly natural shoulders al la Ivy League or Neapolitan style. If you like them, great.

    BTW, the third tweed from the left is a keeper. I have a jacket from Chipp( Winston Tailors)
    that no longer fits in a similar fabric
     
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2011
  13. Achilles_

    Achilles_ Well-Known Member

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    Good to know. I was leaning towards that one or the brown herringbone.
     
  14. barrelntrigger

    barrelntrigger Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Wish I were in Japan right now...
    Hi there, would they honor your own measurements for armhole circumference, the height of the button stance, or would they just simply ignore them? Do they charge extra for full canvass? Thanks a bunch!
     

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