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Body Types and Suit Styles...weigh in everyone

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by damonallan, Mar 29, 2006.

  1. jml90

    jml90 Well-Known Member

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    In the books they never really gave much specifics but that it was blue with a crisp white shirt skinny black silk knitted ties and black casuals.
     
  2. damonallan

    damonallan Well-Known Member

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    WTF?

    A three button suit would make the upper body more proportionate and help the man by not making him so "lanky" up top.

    Either that or a higher button stance but since that is not an option...

    A one or two button suit will show more shirt and tie adding to the already prominent vertical line.

    Edit: There are exceptions to this but I just used this example for simplicity.


    Cool. Does this pic even make sensein terms of describing 3 vs 2 buttons vs 1 button SB. Forgive the simplicity. Which one looks taller and does your answer offer evidence to the reality?

    [​IMG][/IMG]
     
  3. NewYorkBuck

    NewYorkBuck Well-Known Member

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    Ok - for me

    O - V - Pear - and Straight or rectangle - Slight V

    Now thinking about this, let's start with the jacket.

    (1) What cut - British
    (2) Length - Moderate
    (3) To suppress or not to suppress waist - Moderate
    (4) Notch or peak lapel - Notch
    (5) Higher sitting or lower sitting gorge of the lapel - Higher
    (6) Single Breasted vs Double breasted - Single
    (7) What type of single breasted - 3 button roll at top
    (8) What type of double breasted
    (9) What if the person is a tall or short of a particular body type


    Now how about the pants

    (1) To cuff or not to cuff (height issues) - Cuffs
    (2) Pleats or no pleats - PLEATS
    (3) What type of pleat - Two, reverse.
     
  4. whoopee

    whoopee Well-Known Member

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    The higher stance 3 button 2 coat heightens. The 1B is also more elongating than the 2B, if it is cut correctly (same buttoning point). A lower set 2B, or 3B with only centre button closed are less heightening.
     
  5. Dapper Dandy

    Dapper Dandy Well-Known Member

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    You'll notice that I didn't put in the hourglass body type. Unless you've removed a couple of bottom ribs, men don't often fall into this category.

    Actually, to some extent I'd say I have an hourglass body type. I do a lot of lifting for my lats and chest, so I'm pretty big up top. I get smaller until you reach my natural waist, I'd say I go from a 41-inch chest to a 31-inch natural waist. But I don't wear my pants at my natural waist, and from my natural waist down to where I wear my pants, I get a little bigger (I believe this is commonly referred to as "love handles" or "beer belly"). I'm not saying I balloon back out to 41 inches, but just above my hips is probably 34 inches or so, maybe only 33. At any rate, am I weird, or do other people get slightly bigger down from their natural waist? Obviously, I'd love to maintain the V shape all the way down, but that's a complaint for another day...
     
  6. whoopee

    whoopee Well-Known Member

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    I get bigger from the natural waist down. Not by much, but noticeably. I think it's common for trimmer and fitter bodies.
     
  7. jml90

    jml90 Well-Known Member

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    In the books they never really gave much specifics but that it was blue with a crisp white shirt skinny black silk knitted ties and black casuals.
    Jesus Christ I thought it said Bondtypes [​IMG]
     
  8. breakfasteatre

    breakfasteatre Well-Known Member

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    Im 5'5"-5"6", 135 pounds or so, pretty athletic body, now i have never owned a suit in my life, and if anything, i would like to go into a tailor knowing some idea of what size jacket i should be getting

    i know this is a pretty vague question considering the info i have given you, but any information would be helpful to give me a better idea to get into this
     
  9. whoopee

    whoopee Well-Known Member

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    You need to fiind your measurements. Chest and waist to start. Shoulder length, overarm, inseam, hips can come later. But ask your tailor for these figures when you get measured and commit them to memory.
     
  10. breakfasteatre

    breakfasteatre Well-Known Member

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    You need to fiind your measurements. Chest and waist to start. Shoulder length, overarm, inseam, hips can come later. But ask your tailor for these figures when you get measured and commit them to memory.

    thanks for the quick reply to such a vague and unanswerable question

    im looking at a chart right now and it looks like i should be a 38 chest but beyond that, yeah i guess i would have to actually go to a tailor and get measured up
     
  11. Arethusa

    Arethusa Well-Known Member

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    Damon, do you always talk like this, or just on the internet?
     
  12. damonallan

    damonallan Well-Known Member

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  13. damonallan

    damonallan Well-Known Member

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    I'm not quite sure what you mean my friend.
     
  14. Tck13

    Tck13 Well-Known Member

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    Cool. Does this pic even make sensein terms of describing 3 vs 2 buttons vs 1 button SB. Forgive the simplicity. Which one looks taller and does your answer offer evidence to the reality?

    [​IMG][/IMG]



    As far as offering evidence to the reality (don't have time to scan pics), I can suggest pics in Flusser's "Dressing the Man" and "Dress Your Best" by Clinton Kelly and Stacy London (of the t.v. show "What Not to Wear"). Both excellent books offering plenty of advice and pics of proportion and clothing.
     
  15. Jovan

    Jovan Well-Known Member

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    Damon, do you always talk like this, or just on the internet?
    Be nice...
     
  16. damonallan

    damonallan Well-Known Member

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    OK I still don't get it...

    I was just trying to exchange info on people's opinions. I have read the books but some books leave certain things out. Just gaging the knowledge on styleforum.

    So I'm not really sure what that comment meant. PM me.

    Damon
     
  17. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Well-Known Member

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    OK I still don't get it...

    I was just trying to exchange info on people's opinions. I have read the books but some books leave certain things out. Just gaging the knowledge on styleforum.

    So I'm not really sure what that comment meant. PM me.

    Damon



    Don't worry. He is a petulant post-adolescent who lives to heckle people on the internet. I wouldn't waste a minute trying to figure out what he means.
     
  18. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member

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    I agree with Fritz in that there are no hard and fast rules, because there are not just four body types, and each body has it's idiosyncrases (sp?) His disproprotionate head example is perfect example. And besides body type, there is the exact skin tone (if we include colors), demeanor, and posture, among other things. Now, if you give me a picture of a specific person, or better yet, let me walk around with that person for fifteen minutes discussing his job, interests, general outlook and well as his perceptions of what is stylish or not, then, then I could give a much better answer here.
     
  19. Arethusa

    Arethusa Well-Known Member

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    OK I still don't get it... I was just trying to exchange info on people's opinions. I have read the books but some books leave certain things out. Just gaging the knowledge on styleforum. So I'm not really sure what that comment meant. PM me. Damon
    Matt's just on a self righteous vendetta. I'm not going to respond to you privately because I don't see much point. After all, other people have noticed and commented on it in several of your threads, and this isn't any sort of fight, despite one guy wanting one desperately. Your writing isn't casual, but it isn't really formal, either. It's vaguely epistolary, but more than anything, it's extremely prescriptive, hence the "is this some sort of test" comments that have shown up in many of your threads, and reads vaguely like a business presentation. It's just sort of strange.
     
  20. Duveen

    Duveen Well-Known Member

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    I agree with Fritz in that there are no hard and fast rules, because there are not just four body types, and each body has it's idiosyncrases (sp?) His disproprotionate head example is perfect example. And besides body type, there is the exact skin tone (if we include colors), demeanor, and posture, among other things. Now, if you give me a picture of a specific person, or better yet, let me walk around with that person for fifteen minutes discussing his job, interests, general outlook and well as his perceptions of what is stylish or not, then, then I could give a much better answer here.

    LA Guy hit it on the head!

    I didn't mean to be too harsh in my response to the OP's original inquiry, but the nature of the question felt 'off' to me. It presupposed a framework that (at least without visuals) wasn't particularly nuanced and asked us to run with it - this felt like it would be an arid discussion.

    Full credit is due to posters who did apply it to themselves and reveal their own solutions to this question, but using this terminology (O, V, etc) feels misleadingly reductive - the 'straight' body has many variations, as does the 'V'.

    The beauty of this site - and, I am sure, of Mr. Allan's own services when hired for in-person consultations - is the personalized back-and-forth. I love to read books, look at illustrations, etc but I learn more from:
    * shopping and trying on a ton of things
    * watching others who I admire and think of as stylish
    * looking at 'real people' photos on Sartorialist
    than I do from trying to apply abstract rules to dressing.

    I originally thought Mr. Allan was trying to determine if his abstract concepts held water. I now feel he was, as he said, just trying to start a discussion.

    What might be cool/interesting (per LA Guy) would be to post a 'face-blacked out' photo of oneself or a client, indicate what 'body type' you felt this person was and lay out your suggestions to him, to see if the forum agreed or had other ideas. Obviously you ought not have us do your job for you, as we are largely amateurs, but that approach (you sharing your thoughts/knowledge around a concrete case study and getting feedback) would greatly add to the Forum knowledge base.
     

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