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best off-the-rack suits

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by jean_connoisseur23, Aug 16, 2006.

  1. gorgekko

    gorgekko Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,121
    Joined:
    Sep 29, 2004
    Location:
    The Dominion of Canada
    Have you ever even seen an Oxxford suit, much less tried one on?
    Yes. Any other questions?
     
  2. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Well-Known Member

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    Apr 21, 2005
    Location:
    Tombstone
    The Polo BLue Label (cheaper one) is half canvas but made by Corneliani. I have one, I like it. But I agree, except for Corneliani's Trend line (I think). Or is Trend still full floating canvas?

    Trend uses fusing, as does CC. Only Corneliani's mainline stuff is fully canvassed.
     
  3. Soph

    Soph Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,149
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Bologna, Italy
    Isaia really belongs between those two groups, along with RLPL and Barbera.

    Agreed I'd say:
    Oxxford---however they are essential sack suits other than the Radcliff.
    No silo.

    C. Attolini---Great silo.Great Fabrics. Beautiful clothing.Overpriced
    Kiton--- Average Silo.Great Fabrics. Too Expensive and Overpriced
    Borrelli--- Great sio.Great FAbrics.Best Value of the top tier. The cut is between Attolini and Kiton designed by one of Kiton's tailors.

    Brioni--- Power Suit silo.(great for those with non athletic physiques.Great Fab. a little less handiwork.expensive.

    L. Barbera [​IMG] Most under Rated Award. Fabrics are top notch.

    Isaia--only the top of the line

    Bogolio---Great cut, so so fabrics.

    Then:

    Canali
    Zegna
    Corneliani

    Just my opinion though.
     
  4. Chris "Italia"

    Chris "Italia" Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    516
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    Location:
    NJ
    Agreed I'd say:
    Oxxford---however they are essential sack suits other than the Radcliff.
    No silo.

    C. Attolini---Great silo.Great Fabrics. Beautiful clothing.Overpriced
    Kiton--- Average Silo.Great Fabrics. Too Expensive and Overpriced
    Borrelli--- Great sio.Great FAbrics.Best Value of the top tier. The cut is between Attolini and Kiton designed by one of Kiton's tailors.

    Brioni--- Power Suit silo.(great for those with non athletic physiques.Great Fab. a little less handiwork.expensive.

    L. Barbera [​IMG] Most under Rated Award. Fabrics are top notch.

    Isaia--only the top of the line

    Bogolio---Great cut, so so fabrics.

    Then:

    Canali
    Zegna
    Corneliani

    Just my opinion though.



    Where would you put Ravazzolo on your list? on par with Brioni?
     
  5. Chris "Italia"

    Chris "Italia" Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    516
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    Jul 30, 2006
    Location:
    NJ
    How would you guys rank these suit makers?

    Sartoria Partenopea and Pal Zileri.

    Eddy Monetti? anyone heard of this brand?
     
  6. Tomasso

    Tomasso Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,078
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    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    U.S.A.
    Oxxford---however they are essential sack suits other than the Radcliff.
    No silo.


    More hyperbole. It's become your hallmark.
     
  7. Tuerney1

    Tuerney1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    87
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2005
    A
    Kiton--- Average Silo.Great Fabrics. Too Expensive and Overpriced


    [​IMG]
     
  8. Soph

    Soph Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 10, 2006
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    Bologna, Italy
    More hyperbole. It's become your hallmark.


    --- You'll get over your misperception.[​IMG] This comes from a guy who defends Gibson's Steakhouse. Its (hyperbole) become your hallmark.[​IMG]
     
  9. Soph

    Soph Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Bologna, Italy
    [​IMG]

    --- I hope you caught the joke (Kiton's wicked and exorbitant pricing) of emphasis versus trying to assume I used a redundant double adjective. Kiton's branding success however is somewhat justified. Unlike other consumer products that are all marketing and branding but no substance.
     
  10. horton

    horton Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    654
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2006
    Location:
    Boston
    I love Belvest suits because they have no name recognition and can be had under 800.


    I agree. Belvest is a great suit (or sports jacket) that never seems to get the respect it deserves.

    Kiton, Isaia, Zegna, Luciano Barbera are also all great at different price points etc.

    Of course, "best" will be seriously influenced by preference of silhouette

    edit: I should have included Borrelli as well. (no experience with Attolini)
     
  11. Soph

    Soph Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,149
    Joined:
    Mar 10, 2006
    Location:
    Bologna, Italy
    I agree. Belvest is a great suit (or sports jacket) that never seems to get the respect it deserves.

    Kiton, Isaia, Zegna, Luciano Barbera are also all great at different price points etc.

    Of course, "best" will be seriously influenced by preference of silhouette


    --- I hear great things, but have no experience with them other than a nice hanger. So I can't say.

    I agree though that the "silo" silhouette is a major factor in deciding which you like along with your physical build, then materials, construction, proper fit and pricing are all equally important. I've seen poor material yet perfectly fitted garments that look horrid.
     
  12. neyus

    neyus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    638
    Joined:
    Jun 28, 2006
    Location:
    Australia
    Brioni
    Kiton
    Oxxford
    Borrelli
    St Andrews

    Cantarelli
    Isaia
    Vestimenta
    Zegna
    Corneliani
    Canali
    Pal Zileri
    Belvest
     
  13. Chris "Italia"

    Chris "Italia" Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    516
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    Location:
    NJ
    Brioni
    Kiton
    Oxxford
    Borrelli
    St Andrews

    Cantarelli
    Isaia
    Vestimenta
    Zegna
    Corneliani
    Canali
    Pal Zileri
    Belvest



    No Attolini???
     
  14. Chris "Italia"

    Chris "Italia" Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    516
    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    Location:
    NJ
    Now that I have tried on more and more suits...

    The best RTW suit is without a doubt, Brioni.
     
  15. abitifatti

    abitifatti Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    Nov 17, 2006
    Location:
    Parma, Italia
    Good morning.
    beautifull suit is my brothers Ravazzolo. It is very wonderful to touch and to look.
    I like Dolce Gabbana. the cutting is very good for me and beautifull suits.[​IMG]
     
  16. Sator

    Sator Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,083
    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2006
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Oxxford---however they are essential sack suits other than the Radcliff.


    C. Attolini---Great silo.Great Fabrics. Beautiful clothing.Overpriced
    Kiton--- Average Silo.Great Fabrics. Too Expensive and Overpriced
    Borrelli--- Great sio.Great FAbrics.Best Value of the top tier. The cut is between Attolini and Kiton designed by one of Kiton's tailors.

    Brioni--- Power Suit silo.(great for those with non athletic physiques.Great Fab. a little less handiwork.expensive.

    L. Barbera [​IMG] Most under Rated Award. Fabrics are top notch.

    Isaia--only the top of the line

    Bogolio---Great cut, so so fabrics.

    Then:

    Canali
    Zegna
    Corneliani

    Just my opinion though.


    Excellent summary of the situation. I agree with the opinion that Cesare Attolini is the finest RTW suit I have yet seen. I too would agree that Luciano Barbera is grossly underrated. Kiton is the most overrated in my opinion although the construction itself is excellent - it's the fabrics and cut that leave me cold. Also what about suits from J. Press?

    The thing is at this price why on earth you would buy RTW rather than go bespoke in the first place? Fit - real fit, not approximation - matters immeasurably more than what label is on the garment. I guess it is all about the cult of labels.
     
  17. pkincy

    pkincy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    852
    Joined:
    Mar 14, 2006
    Location:
    San Diego Ca
    We certainly do love "my suit can beat up your suit" threads around here.

    I am amazed at how passionately people will tout their favorites.

    I suppose that is because we are passionate about the subject.

    I have 90% of the above brands (only lacking some of the designer brands mentioned) and clearly think the best value is Samuelsohn, although all the others have their good points as well as some great points.

    And none of those mentioned are clearly overrated in my opinion.

    Perry
     
  18. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2003
    Location:
    NYC/Brooklyn
    I have only passing experience with Pal Zileri. The white label is generally canvas constructed with a few handfinishing detailing like pick stiching which is actually done by machine IIRC. Cuts and fabrics are generally more contemporary than other traditional houses--think of PZ white label pieces as well constructed fashion pieces.

    Sartoria Patenopea appears to be a younger brand. Once again, construction is fully canvassed with handfinishing details. There is more attention to the execution of the suit than PZ. I've found that the silhouette favors the generic continental European look a la Zegna, more than the "lightweight" aesthetic of the Neopolitans. I would rate SP as slightly better than Zegna mainline at a similar retail price (1.8-2k).
     
  19. william

    william Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,554
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2006
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    My best off the rack experience by far has been Isaia. Very light canvassing, natural shoulders, slim silhouette, hand-stitching, high armholes, etc.
     
  20. LARon

    LARon Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,188
    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2006
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    No Attolini???

    Attolini is represented by Borrelli, whose suits are made by Attolini.
     

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