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Best bespoke commission ever? I think so. *** PICTURES ADDED FOR THOSE LACKING IMAGINATION

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Jan 21, 2013.

  1. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Also the fact that people are viewing you generally from farther away makes larger patterns on overcoats better.
     
  2. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    That looks like a fun overcoat to have, though it must weigh a ton. But very warm, I bet. I think Mariano's gloves idea is kind of silly and that is what the hip pockets are for. Especially since any gloves suitable for the weather that that coat is made for will be pretty bulky.
    While I don't love the belt width, I think there are only two things that bother me. First, I would prefer it to be a bit longer - say to shin length. Second, the collar is huge. I know why it is like that - you wanted big lapels and you wanted a closed notch so the collar would be flush with the lapels. I would have preferred you played with a notch and maybe a different collar shape (like a rounded ghillie). How does the collar look turned up? It looks like it will be well above your ears, like some sort of superhero costume. I suppose you can argue that is functional, but so is a hood. If you have time to photograph it with the lapels closed and the collar up, that would be interesting. While I am sure you won't agree with me, if you wanted to try a different collar shape , it looks like you could easily do so given how big is what you have.

    It looks to me like the back pleat is meant to be that way, though I can't understand why that was the choice. It is hard to tell from the photo but it really doesn't look like it is pulling because you gained weight. But maybe it is opening because of the bulk of the cloth, which might still have a little stiffness.
    Edit: I take it back - if you look at the lines of the pattern, they follow the pleat and hang at an angle. It is cut like the pleat should hang straight. If it were meant to hang open, the way it does, the lines would fall straight, but would be at an angle to the open pleat edge. I still don't think it is a result of mis-sizing - I bet the cloth is just very heavy and a little stiff and the pleats need to be pressed closed.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    It does in fact weigh a ton. But man is it warm! We went for a walk through the park yesterday evening (when the picture was taken), and I only wore a OCBD underneath. Didn't even begin to get cold, despite temperatures in the 20's.

    In actuality, the outer cloth is not that heavy. I believe it is either 16 or 18 oz. Mariano had to guess because there were no markings on it. But the lining is cashmere (unknown weight), so that contributes a lot of weight and warmth.

    You could be onto something with the collar. However, in all fairness, my wife is a little bit shorter than me and the photo is from her perspective. From dead-on, the gorge is quite a bit lower than it appears in the photo (I would never ask for it as high as it seems). Hence, the collar looks better balanced in real life--deeper and lower, not nearly so spread outward.

    When the collar is turned up, it is indeed a pretty dramatic effect. But I do like it like that. Have you seen the size of my head?

    Perhaps if you keep up your Foo-stalking on the UWS you'll soon spot this getup in the wild and can judge from there.
     
  4. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Cashmere lining? That is awesome.
     
  5. A Canuker

    A Canuker Well-Known Member

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    Normally when I read about over the top bespoke on SF I'm worried that it's going to be an absurd venture but that coat is amazing. Looks great and is fitting for it's function, good pick and work Foo.
     
  6. Despos

    Despos Well-Known Member

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    I like the coat. Two causes contribute to the kick pleat vent opening. The fold over pleat that is held in by the belt is one. Foo, if you unbutton the belt and release the pleating the vent will straighten out some. The other is balance, short front, long back. To compensate for the pleating in the back, would shorten the back balance. This would straighten the front edge and it would hang more perpendicular. If you grab a handful of cloth at each side of the waist in back, on any coat, and pull it to the side you will see how the vent opens like this in reaction to the pulling.
    It's a wonderful coat and I would only change 5 things. Main thing would be to widen the horizontal button spacing so it balances proportionally with the lapel and collar. Would add 1/2 or 3/4" to the overlap to achieve this. Subjective call but that's how I see it.
     
  7. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    ..
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  8. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  9. T4phage

    T4phage Well-Known Member

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    very nice coat
    it looks very similar
    to mine
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the suggestions, Chris. I noticed that why I button both middle rows of buttons (as opposed to only the lower middle one, as in the picture), everything hangs better. The buttons go completely parallel and the fronts line up perpendicular to the ground.
     
  11. CaymanS

    CaymanS Well-Known Member

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    Foo is the new Lapo.
     
  12. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Is that Dutch haiku?
     
  13. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Quote:Does that mean iammatt = Gianni? Mind blown.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Ishestillmatt?

    And where does whnay fit in the picture?
     
  15. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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    When you next photograph this overcoat, would you mind taking some pictures of the hip pockets, specifically, and also the pleat above the belt line? Also, the out breast pocket, if there is anything interesting about it.

    Thanks
     
  16. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Will do. The hip pockets are very strange, have to admit.
     
  17. dopey

    dopey Well-Known Member

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  18. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Well-Known Member

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    Eccentric, likes to drink, and has a volatile temper. So, whnay = Margherita Agnelli de Pahlen

    Obviously.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013
  19. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Anybody with any inclination toward the proper English way of doing things will be appalled by these pockets. I suspect that will include you.
     
  20. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, that's what I thought, too. I just wanted to cross-reference.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2013

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