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Bespoke suit or better MTM

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Sidhartha, Oct 7, 2013.

  1. Sidhartha

    Sidhartha Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 7, 2013
    Hi All,

    I've had a few MTM suits before (war suits basically for work). I've shelled out close to £700 per suit in the past (for a jacket and 2 trousers). Quality was ok for work, but I wouldn't wear them out in the evening.

    Bit of background... I'm a 42L and 32 waist so RTW is pretty much out of the question.

    I want a suit for general evening wear... restaurants, events, concerts (God forbid when my girlfriend drags me to the opera etc). I prefer slimmer tailored suits, medium to narrow lapels etc.

    I want to spend closer to £2,000 than £3,000 for a two piece.

    Any recommendations?

    Right now I've been looking at either full bespoke from Chris Kerr,

    http://www.chriskerr.com/

    Or maybe a made to order (not full bespoke) from Kent Haste & Lachter,

    http://kenthaste.co.uk/made-to-order-2/

    Any thoughts greatly appreciated.
     
  2. Sidhartha

    Sidhartha Member

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    Oct 7, 2013
  3. MZhammer

    MZhammer Well-Known Member

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    I'm not understanding why RTW is our of the question. Have you tried any slimmer fit suits? RLBL makes a pretty dramatic cut that might need only minimal tailoring. A good tailor could take in the waist and slim down pants no problem, you're only 1 size down from me in waist and jacket.

    You could also try the Zegna Milan fit, I own a few and with waist suppression on the jacket and taking the waist in/slimming the pants its a great cut.

    I'm unfamiliar with the two tailors you are considering.
     
  4. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    For a drop 10, I'd imagine MTM would be vastly superior to any RTW.
     
  5. MZhammer

    MZhammer Well-Known Member

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    There's a lot of RTW drop 8s out there and it's a minor alteration for any tailor at that point.
     
  6. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't call it a minor alteration. Trousers that are 2 inches too big in the waist are likely too big in the seat and elsewhere, as well.
     
  7. MZhammer

    MZhammer Well-Known Member

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    Go to a good tailor, it's not a big deal to slim pant legs and take in the seat.
     
  8. GBR

    GBR Well-Known Member

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    Try Kent and Haste - I've never seen any damning reviews. Forget RTW, large scale alterations are not worth it, get something that fits inn the first instance.
     
  9. Sidhartha

    Sidhartha Member

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    A 6 inch drop is a 4 inch alteration to the trousers. Sounds a lot to me. I've got a Gucci RTW suit and frankly it fits horribly. Take 4 or more inches out of the trousers and the pockets start shifting around to the back of the trousers too much.
     
  10. Ivar

    Ivar Well-Known Member

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    4 inches is indeed a lot. But there are plenty of makers that sell the suit jacket and suit pants individually, and jackets can be tapered quite dramatically without distorting their proportions.
     
  11. MZhammer

    MZhammer Well-Known Member

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    Correct, and a 6 inch drop is pretty traditional in sizing, most slim fit suits have a 7 or 8 inch drop which makes it even more manageable. It's fine if you'd prefer to do MTM, there's many people who do, but to say you "can't" do RTW seems unrealistic. A drop 8 puts you into a 2" larger waist so the shaping through the leg would be minimal and wouldn't change the proportions in any meaningful way.
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2013
  12. Macallan

    Macallan Well-Known Member

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    Where did you get the £700 mtm suits from?

    That would help with the suggestions
     
  13. Sidhartha

    Sidhartha Member

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    Oh they were made by a guy called Jim Nash who used to be in Leadenhall Market. While fine as a war suit I wasn't overly blown away with the cut, detail or finishing.

    I am looking to move a big step up from there.
     

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