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Austro-Hungarian school of shoemaking

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by fritzl, Feb 26, 2008.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    ah, ok.


    delicate to repair.
     
  2. Axxl

    Axxl Active Member

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    You know Ms Ehlers in person? Whats your opinion? You seem quite reluctant. Any specific reason?
     
  3. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    i know her. it's just, i don't send shoes for repair to anyone in the world. i talk to the person, who is doing the job personally and i pick them up myself, that's all.
     
  4. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    well, on popular request i'll kick it off again...
    [​IMG] here you can see four interpretations of the heel cup and heel shape. for those who own the vass book, there's a good illustration of the development of said heel shapes. from left to right: norweger(nst), half brogue derby, norweger, half brogue derby, the first two were made by master kiss and are pretty much what the term old school means. third, a bespoke number by maftei/vienna shows a little more refinement, it is also a thomas heel(see below). the fourth is made by another master shoemaker mr. feher. this pair has seen a lot of wear time and has a lot of miles on the clock. it's around fifteen years old and only just received a small heel service on one shoe. all of them are on their original heels. well, quality and the knowledge accumulated over the years how to treat and maintain your shoes definitely pays off, imo. [​IMG]
     
  5. rikod

    rikod Well-Known Member

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    Amazing all of them, thank you for the explanation, do you have a front photo of that setup by any chance?
     
  6. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    you're welcome.

    only this top view:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  7. rikod

    rikod Well-Known Member

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    Oh God, I love them all, great pictures, the brogues and medallion in the second from the left are partcularly beautiful to me. The shape remind me a bit some of the Vass lasts like the Peter and 3636, would you agree?
     
  8. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    absolutely. more 3636, imo.

    if someone is picky, you can claim that the medaillon is too close to the brogueing. oh well :D
     
  9. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    picked this out of a discussion about sole thickness and massive frames.


    because i had some adaptions done by my cobbler on one of my pairs. sole thickness went from triple to double and the edges have been grounded down to get back in balance. all it needs is a skilled person who understands your "visions" and can take care of them.

    [​IMG]

    reducing the frame served another purpose. i wanted the edges to be natural and raw to be able to experiment with different colours and treatments. i went with burgundy with this and brown with a siblings pair. no pictjure update yet.

    before somebody asks, the trees do not sit correctly due the footbed is removed.

    they are eighteen years old and have seen extensive wear.
     
  10. rikod

    rikod Well-Known Member

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    I guess this is the most important part, someone who can not only understand but to do it correctly, and if ones vision have any flaws, fix it.
    I recall a forum member in the Vass who had some of his shoes welts trimmed down closer to the uppers, imo his cobbler over did it a bit and it looked too close in the front and not in balance, maybe not too noticeable IRL but it looked that way in close up pics.

    I still think thet ishis pair (that prompted my ignorant comment above) would benefit from a job like this. Your pair look very good with a double sole.
     
  11. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    - i almost forgot about this. good to bring it back. also for me, it was slightly overdone. honestly, it is more difficult as it seems. it also needs a lot of trust in the person in charge.

    - yes, i agree. that's why i mentioned it in the context with ishis pair. well, i know he loves them that way. my statement was meant of what is possible.

    i also know, that i'm a lucky bastard that i always had this skillful persons on call. imo, it helps, if you can discuss things like that in person.
     
  12. sstomcat

    sstomcat Well-Known Member

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    I dont quite get the trees ..IMO other than the 2ndfrom the right the fit seems odd.
     
    Last edited: Apr 21, 2012
  13. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    thoroughly possible. actually, i do not see the same as you do. some of the possible reasons. insole is removed, i grabbed some trees for the photoshoot, i tried a pair of trees to see how it fits etc., etc. having a certain number of shoes isn't a static situation. anyway.

    if you don't mind, i appreciate if you elaborate your observations. i'm always open for opnions to improve the status.
     
  14. sstomcat

    sstomcat Well-Known Member

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    I will try, considering they are Bespoke shoes I would expect they come with lasted trees making them a a snug fit..

    In my opinion the from left the vamp seems to be lifted more that it should be, the next two the opening seems to be stretched a tad more resulting in some gaps and the fourth the vamp seems to be creasing up. Again , these are from the pictures that I see....
     
  15. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    not necessarily in hungary. it's always an option with all makers around the world(rule of thumb), at least three piece. i agree, that most people take advantage of it. anyway


    note to myself. don't picture things, which aren't in a perfect status. i shouldn't picture things, which are in the works. lesson learned.
     
  16. sstomcat

    sstomcat Well-Known Member

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    Point taken, somehow not sure why I had this mistaken notion that bespoke shoes always come with trees....
     
  17. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    in any case, we'll check your pictures after a few years of extensive wear... ...and compare it when new?
     
  18. rikod

    rikod Well-Known Member

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    I also posted this in the Vass thread, this pair is my favorite for the office right now. Very versatile, I wear them with all color trousers except black. The P2 last is very special I think, looks very good & elegant on the feet, like a combination of traditional and modern.

    The medallion also look somewhat close to the brogueing and ends a little high on the toe.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]n

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    i like your way of structured thinking. i cannot do all things shoes like a checklist, though. there are too many variations in the game and i'm far from the point to have them all discovered.
     
  20. sstomcat

    sstomcat Well-Known Member

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    These are fan-tas-tic!
     

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