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Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. herringbonePete

    herringbonePete Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    221
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2011
    Location:
    Australia
    Last year I bought a linen jacket from Marks and Spencers (UK) online. .
    I forget the price, (inexpensive) and it's fine. Single vent, which is fine by me, although I prefer twin side vents.

    I took it to Katrinas to get the sleeves altered but it was hard to get them to agree on the length - many tailors want to see the cuff of the jacket touch your hand
    which I find annoying regardless of taste.

    The jacket came back too long, so I will be going back! This is the second jacket I've had to get done twice - the lesson is that I have to insist!
     
  2. fxh

    fxh Well-Known Member

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    Jan 9, 2010
    Location:
    Melbourne
    

    I got a cheap cotton summer unstructured jacket - navy for $100 - took it to Alter-It because my tailor is away on extended holidays in greece and they wanted $70 to take up the cuffs - because it has feckin working cuffs. bah - I'll do a bodgy job myself.
     
  3. Cubits

    Cubits Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2013
    No idea why tailors want such long sleeves! My new tailor "informed" me that the suit should end on the hand, but he didn't fight me on it when i requested otherwise. I would rather have too much cuff showing than none at all (lesser of evils).

    As for linen suits, even through this Brisbane "winter" i've been rocking my beige cotton/linen blend with great regularity. Nothing makes me feel better than wading through a sea of dreary black suits in it. It's unstructured, quarter lined, and the flapped pockets are still stitched shut (stops them sagging). I picked it up from Sportscraft of all places, but it's cut well and fits like a glove, it even has a respectably low buttoning point! Still going strong after two years, and the wrinkles can be knocked out with a gentle pressing.

    Pure linen accumulates creases waaaay faster than a blend.

    I kinda want to get another suit made up of the same material, but not sure which colour to go with. I already have a "workaday" wool suit which treads the line between airforce blue and proper navy. Maybe in tabacco or a mid grey. Hmmm....
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  4. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jan 30, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Dark gray P Johnson suit + white BD + louche black knit tie = 3 dazzling smiles from 3 dazzling young women. One even moved further along the bench so I could sit too.

    That black knit... Everyone should have one.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
    2 people like this.
  5. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Well-Known Member

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    Oct 7, 2012
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Any numbers taken?

    Always be closing.
     
  6. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    And therein lies the irony.

    Now that I'm comfortable with who I am, and therefore, comfortable with what my so-called personal style... I'm happily married and can't / won't do anything about it.

    Nice ego boost though.

    Again, trust me: get a black knit...
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  7. kayhill

    kayhill Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Joined:
    Jul 19, 2013
    Location:
    Australia
    This one: http://www.mjbale.com/suits/suits/oberon-navy-jacket?

    Just happens I tried it on while walking through Westfields this arvo. It's nice. They've only got the following sized pants in store: 30, 34, 36.

    Working cuff buttons, but the lapel buttonhole was just for show.
     
  8. Cubits

    Cubits Well-Known Member

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    I would so rather have a working lapel and fake cuffs, but it's not a huge problem. That actually looks pretty good, although i'd prefer the button a bit lower. With an unstructured linen you get a lot of puckering when you try to nip the waist if it buttons high.

    The pants look pretty slim, so i'd probably run into the same problem of choosing between a well-fitted waist, flared pockets, and seam busting thighs, or a potato sack i can crouch in. My Herringbone and Sportscraft suits are danger zone if i drop something and have to pick it up. :p

    MJ really should open a Brisbane store, the style situation here desperately needs more availability at that price point.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  9. Osiris2012

    Osiris2012 Well-Known Member

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    Nov 14, 2012
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    Brisbane
    Yeah that's the one, thanks for sharing your thoughts on it.

    Yeah kind of perplexing that Perth and Canberra have stores and not Brisbane, apparently they had a sample store or pop up store (?) here a while ago and it was poorly stocked and didn't do too well. At least they have a great returns and exchanges policy so its not too bad, just email them and they arrange a courier pick up and all (for suits (applies to jacket / pants))
     
  10. fxh

    fxh Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 9, 2010
    Location:
    Melbourne
    I'm curious - a small survey is needed. http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/GRLP72V

    I suspect when many people on forums - not perhaps so much here on this highly regarded thread - speak of "going to a tailor" they are really talking about going to an alterationist - some more skilled than others - but not someone who can make you a bespoke jacket and trousers.

    When people (YOU) here use the word - do they (YOU) mean alterationist?

    When I say tailor I mean a tailor - who could make a suit from scratch.

    I suspect thats not what most people mean - after all theres probably only less than 10 left in Melbourne, 3 in Sydney and none anywhere else.

    Compete survey here:: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/GRLP72V

    I'll post results in a week.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  11. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Oct 7, 2012
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Why open a store that will be flooded with water 6 months later? It doesn't make much sense.

    Quote: Are mistresses no longer in fashion?

    This black knit, is it from P Johnson?
     
  12. Cubits

    Cubits Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 1, 2013
    There's a handful of proper tailors in Brissie, but the majority of them are so old that you wouldn't be guaranteed that they'd live to complete a bespoke suit. Some of them are even getting too old to be trusted for alterations. It's a real shame.

    For alterations i go to a guy who has retired from hands-on work, he does the styling/thinking and farms out the manual labour to his underlings. I'm fine with that, it's how the whole of modern tailoring/suit-making has gone.

    Oh, and thanks for the info on MJ's returns policy, Osiris. I had no idea it was that accomodating! Might still have to pop in on a trip south, the site has no info on leg widths (but has belt loop size?!).
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  13. Halifax

    Halifax Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 29, 2013
    Location:
    Illinois
    I think my-go to tailor (prior to joining this thread), Bob from A&S, falls into this category. I predominately just get shirts taken in and darted but although I've never got a suit from scratch through him, I have bought one of his suits, adjustments included.

    Edit: one of his RTW suits.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  14. herringbonePete

    herringbonePete Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    221
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    Dec 6, 2011
    Location:
    Australia
    Quote:I mean an alterationist, (perhaps trained as a seamstress?). I go to one who is one or several levels, perhaps a skilled artisan, above the mainstream type you can find in malls and drycleaners (who to be fair, are probably fine). A tailor is someone who measures and creates bespoke.
     
  15. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 30, 2011
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    

    1) Not for me.

    2) Ayup, P Johnson. Much looser weave than Drakes, but just as nice. Jason's (HC) knits look pretty good too.
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,774
    Joined:
    Mar 29, 2005
    Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
    

    Bob Schreder, of Ashley and Schreder, is cheap and has a good line in bad jokes, but he is one of those frustrating alterations people who doesn't like to take up sleeves and trousers too much and who must be convinced to shorten jacket sleeves so that you can see a sliver of cuff! I don't know the picture is still there, but he used to have an old photo pinned up in his premises with a picture of someone wearing a jacket with rather long sleeves, and he would point to it and tell you that it showed where your sleeves should come to.

    Bob's business can make you a suit from scratch (or, at least, he used to make suits on the premises) but they're not that fantastic. Not really bad, but not great - but at least they involved a couple of fittings. He also (as Halifax mentioned) sells RTW suits. I don't know if they still are, but they used to be made in Sydney (I think). Then again, perhaps they were made for him by Traveller's Apparel down in Melbourne.

    There used to be an Italian gentlemen out at Stones Corner, Tony Cavallo, who could do a handmade suit with lovely, hand-stitched buttonholes, but I think that he retired a couple of years ago. He used to do alterations, as well as making suits.

    Also, over at South Brisbane, there is, or was, a tailor by the name of Otto Ponweiser, who made suits. I don't know if he's still in business. I had a chat with him a few years ago and he was very, very definite about his house style - he clearly preferred a more structured cut with stronger shoulders and didn't have much truck with the trend towards softer, unpadded shoulders!

    Actually, if his website is anything to go by, it looks as though Otto is still in business:

    http://www.symonsqualityclothing.com.au/tailoring/

    I think that's it with regard to places in Brisbane that can (or could) actually make suits on the premises.

    I remember my father telling me that many years back (in the 1950s and 1960s), there used to be a business called Symon's Suits, run by a gentleman by the name of George Symons. It made both RTW and made-to-order suits and was the place to get a suit in Brisbane. However, times change and now all that is left of it is a sign on the wall of an old building in Elizabeth St in Brisbane, next to the back of the Myer Centre.
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
  17. Halifax

    Halifax Well-Known Member

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    Jul 29, 2013
    Location:
    Illinois
    Hi JM - First and foremost, I'm relatively new to this so keep that in mind. Second, I'm not endorsing Bob, just saying something becuase it seemed pertinent - he does offer custom suiting (that I've never tried) and he's almost retired. The price was equivalent to the Cloackroom and he showed me some fittings in progress (which the Cloakroom obviously can't) but I went for the RTW because that's all I needed at the time.

    Regarding the sleeves and trouser hemming, I got the opposite treatment from him. He kept going on about how jacket sleeves are too long etc. I'm sure you'll be able to give me a better appraisal in the near future.

    Just to clarify, I believe Bob's RTW are Rundle's from Newcastle.
     
  18. Oli2012

    Oli2012 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Aug 22, 2012
    Location:
    Sydney, Australia
    Ashley and Schreder is where Bob Katter goes :D

    Today's purchases -

    Target chinos - mid-low rise, regular fit. $40. I'll let you all know how they go.

    Modena A4 compendium - kinda meh on this. Anyone know where I can get a nice compendium in chestnut?
     
    Last edited: Sep 5, 2013
    1 person likes this.
  19. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Oh, my apologies...maybe I was too eager to find an excuse to mention your dub monx.


    I know, not what I expected to see Mr fxh in. Nice shoes, just unexpected.


    Of course and no socks either...


    What did you expect?


    Well you looked a sharp and suitable as ever Mr L, so thank you for proving my theory. Agree with you about level of consistency.
     
  20. Halifax

    Halifax Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Location:
    Illinois
    For those who want to gamble with their health and their vote this weekend...

    [​IMG]
     
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