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Australian Members

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by earthdragon, Nov 18, 2008.

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  1. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Well-Known Member

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    I think cutler have a MTM option also, but your about spot on for their bespoke pricing.
     
  2. Journeyman

    Journeyman Well-Known Member

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    I was surprised to see recently that John Cutler does have a much cheaper option, which I assume is MTM.

    It's called something like "London Style by Cutler" and prices start at around $1750, if I remember the article correctly.
     
    1 person likes this.
  3. sliq

    sliq Well-Known Member

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    what size were the Zegna pieces and blazer?
     
  4. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Well-Known Member

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    Also re discussing retailers profit margins - #thingswedonttalkabout

    What im saying is I don't really think its anyones business speculating on what profit margins (insert name) retailer charges. If you think it's too expensive, then dont buy it! Simple :)
     
  5. Henry Carter

    Henry Carter Well-Known Member

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    Also again, great photos as always Gerry, looks like it would have been a good night. I will have to stop by DM and pick up some more saphir when I'm down for the trunk show.
     
  6. Nicholas D C

    Nicholas D C Well-Known Member

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    [insert name] retailer can feel free to charge extortionate prices for the exact same item I can get overseas shipped to my door for half the price, but they'll be going out of business shortly. It's a global marketplace these days - Australian retailers are finding that out the hard way.

    -----

    On another topic, anyone else use "Detail for Men" as their hair salon? I've been there a couple times, pretty nifty place.
     
    Last edited: Mar 22, 2013
  7. thebrownman

    thebrownman Well-Known Member

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    Gerry, your photos from Double Monk are lovely.
     
  8. jaypee

    jaypee Well-Known Member

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    Use to hit up detail, before moving over to sterling who are amazing
     
  9. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Well-Known Member

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    Not according to Thomas Mahon. http://www.englishcut.com/archives/000030.html

    All bespoke tailors use some sort of pattern drafting method so there is a common 'algorithm' anyway.

    Side note: Isaia Su Misura will be available in Sydney soon, probably around a similar price point to Zegna.
     
  10. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Well-Known Member

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    Interesting...
     
  11. California Dreamer

    California Dreamer Well-Known Member

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    The Su Misura suit fitted like about a 40R drop 6, at a guess. I would have taken it, but there was a small stain on the pamts pocket that looked to me like it wouldn't come out. My guess at the casmere blazer size would be 44. I'm somewhere between 40 and 42 right now and I thought it a little large. The pants were huge - size 60. There was also a Zegna silk/cotton top that was just weird. It fitted Eu 50 or 52, but the shoulders were halfway down my biceps and the sleeves below my fingertips.

    If you want to hunt them out, the latter two were at St Marks in Smith St Collingwood and the suit and blazer were at Salvos in Clarendon St South Melbourne.
     
  12. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Well-Known Member

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    I agree, it is interesting. And his cut looks a bit more classic than most MTM going around.

    Most of all though, you get all of his experience as a bespoke tailor at your disposal to help choose the right cloth and get an exacting fit.
     
  13. LonerMatt

    LonerMatt Well-Known Member

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    CD: we should go op/vintage shopping together.
     
  14. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Well-Known Member

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    And this is where it gets very gray and murky.

    Sounds suspiciously like high quality MTM, whereas Mahon's description of MTM sounds more like MTO (made to order) which is what most so-called MTM operations do. There's so much latitude in the use of such terminology these days, it's hard to tell what one means till they elaborate further.

    Does this mean though, that the more flexible an MTM system is, the closer it's similarity to Bespoke Pattern Manipulation?

    I'd wager that if your build doesn't deviate too far from the mythical average man, either high-quality MTM or Mahon's described method (I'm aware this is not his preference) would suffice.

    Lastly, just a caution wrt big brand MTM: how well your suit fits is heavily influenced by the person fitting you. Outfits like Zegna (personal experience) are dangerously inconsistent on this area, as fitting skill varies from store to store.

    Thanks for the heads up about Isaia. Where is Isaia sold anyway? Is it only at American Tailors? Any Sydney connection?
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2013
  15. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Well-Known Member

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    Technically, if a computer could draft a pattern or change an existing one from a certain number of measurements (and can factor into account shoulder drops etc.) it could better optimise the pattern than a tailor could do by hand due to the numerical optimisation algorithms it can employ.

    I agree with Zegna, I've seen horrible results and excellent results. Zegna Su Misura used to be in multi-brand stores, some of which had bespoke tailors to measure - the results I saw in those instances had a fit that was very, very close to true bespoke, with the advantage that they had the Zegna silhouette.
     
  16. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Well-Known Member

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    IIRC, Adamo's bespoke prices start from about 2K as well. I believe this is for a 2 piece in VBC. Or you can wait for Gordon Yao to come round again (from HK). I think his basic 2 piece pricing is similar.

    The question is: what works for you?

    I'm sticking with Pat for now. Might give Yao a try. Will definitely go with Iris in Singapore at some point in time.
     
  17. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Well-Known Member

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    Vince Maloney & Co. Coming soon if not already there I believe.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. ColdEyedPugilist

    ColdEyedPugilist Well-Known Member

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    Don't get me started on Zegna. Wasted too much money on bad Su Misura before I knew what I was doing. Love their Milano cut, but I'm loathe to give them another shot.

    Hope you weren't a victim as well.
     
    Last edited: Mar 23, 2013
  19. Pink Socks

    Pink Socks Well-Known Member

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    With every new purchase the idea of a shared tie/accersory/shoe coop makes more and more sense. We could both be far richer men. In other news a pair of RRL selvedge jeans I bought on eBay a month ago finally arrived. Good price so took the risk with sizing and luckily they are pretty spot on. Woohoo!
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. Prince of Paisley

    Prince of Paisley Well-Known Member

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    Dropped into a Herringbone store today, as well as the MJBale sale and I have to say I was rather surprised. MJB had some ok stuff on sale but the new season stock that was in was a little bit trans-seasonal and not all that inspiring. The new raincoat looked like it would have been more at home in the Oxford outlet...

    In contrast the HB trenchcoat was really well tailored I thought, with better attention to detail and fabric than the MJ one ($700 though). They also had about 4 different navy blazer styles for anyone looking for one. A nice brown light herringbone tweed jacket also caught my eye.

    Guess it just goes to show you can't always judge a book by it's cover, or a shop's stock by it's website.
     
    1 person likes this.
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