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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Gdot

    Gdot Well-Known Member

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    Atlanta, GA
    Shirt collar is not too long. It just reaches to right under lapel - which is perfect. :D

    Angle/spread is ok too. Although I think your face could take a slightly less spread collar in an ideal world. (Minor in my opinion).

    You could use a wider tie (I know you didn't ask). It is narrow in proportion to your overall size and lapel width. :satisfied:
     
  2. greenrebellion

    greenrebellion Active Member

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    Apr 30, 2011
    What do you guys think of these pants? I had them tapered from the knee down since they were a tad too baggy and I have stick legs, then I had them shortened to reduce the break. But with these loafers now, they show some sock even though the pants seem to fit a lot better. Did I go to far on the tailoring? I tested what they would like like longer (by pulling my pants down lower) and the sock still shows since the leg opening is small.

    [​IMG]


    Oh and don't worry, black mark is on the mirror not the pants and I won't actually be wearing brown socks with this outfit. :)
     
  3. CuffLinks28

    CuffLinks28 Active Member

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    Aug 3, 2011
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    In the General Seattle Area
    Does anybody know of a good shoe polish and perhaps where to buy it. Black shoes by the way.
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2011
  4. Avocat

    Avocat Well-Known Member

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    Canada
    ^ Welcome. Asking "what is the best" is a loaded question around here, y'know. Mainly b/c everyone here has there own favorites as well as their own regimen, and about all of which you can read up more on by doing a search on the forums, where members happily share their experiences--as well as tidbits, secrets and horror stories--when it comes to various products and also their own regimen. In my case, I alternate b/w shoe creams and wax polishes for all but exotics and light-coloured leathers, with some members here swearing by olive oil. In other words, it's one of those questions where you'll likely get a different answer depending on whom you ask. That said, the main thing is to avoid cheap polishes b/c they tend to contain silicone which is a water-proofing agent; whilst great for work boots, it isn't so for dress shoes/boots b/c it clogs shoe pores, resulting in an unsightly plastic-ky finish.

    Again, if you do a search here on the forums you can read up on various products and regimens but to get you started I'm happy to provide you with a link to a recent podcast about shoe polishing, which link was provided to me by Doc4 who had the following to say about it: "On a recent podcast at ASW about shoe polishing, http://asuitablewardrobe.dynend.com/2010/10/podcast-leather-shoe-care.html , the professional shoe-polisher interviewed recommended using high-quality polishes rather than cheap ones, and also hit on the cream v. wax issue too." Trust this helps and wear your shoes--whatever your own personal regimen--in good health. Cheers! :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 3, 2011
  5. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

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    Kiwi paste is fine, so long as it's not the parade gloss. It's even used in the factory by high end shoemakers like Edward Green. They would of course be happy to sell you more expensive polishes, but that's what they use. The one solid rule is to use a real polish, whether paste or cream, and not one of those insta shine things with sponges. They dry out the leather rather than add oils, as either a paste or a cream would do.
     
  6. Avocat

    Avocat Well-Known Member

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    Canada
    

    Green: well, if you're headed to a business meeting or other formal/semi-formal event, then yeah, pants should cover the sock (known as a full break, which is a hem that hits above the heel and a classic rule of tailored dress). Most US tailors, though, prefer the half-break, which tends to show a tad bit of sock when you walk, though not so "skinny" as you say. Really, though, your tailor should have measured you with your shoes on. That said, seems you've a bit of a "skinny jean" like look there, and that's ok if you're comfortable with skinny jeans, seeing as those pants are casual after all and as you say you've far from wide legs :)

    Feel free to roll them up--an inch or so should be fine. Also, ankles can be bare, but showing some sock is alright, too. Just be sure to add some color--make it interesting, and relax. Alternatively, seems to me that you could rock that look by pairing the pants with a jodphur ankle boot, such boots serving as both a dress and riding boot, and which pairs beautifully with (you guessed it) jodhpurs/riding pants, which are tapered at the leg. See for e.g the Cottesmore by Crockett & Jones: http://www.shoes.shoppingsection.co...c?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=311&Category_Code= which is an excellent boot, in my op., and but one of many examples. A classic polo look with the boots, or a whimsical relaxed look if rolled up w/ bare ankles and/or a pop of colour via socks. Your choice, and should look fine. Just don't do that with dress pants, right? ;)
     
  7. Avocat

    Avocat Well-Known Member

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    Canada
    

    Are you sure about that, CPT? I mean, about the parade gloss, yes, but the regular paste? My understanding is that it contains silicone which, unless they've changed the formulation, is not fine, for reasons already stated. As to high end shoemakers using it initially, sure, possibly: I mean, it's not like they're bathing the shoe/boot in it, but merely wanting it to shine bright so as to sell it, right? Not being difficult, just a word of caution. Both C&J and RM Williams (hand-grade and custom work, respectively) warn against Kiwi products, on account of the silicone that they say is in there---keeping in mind also that RM Williams is, like Kiwi,also from Oz so as to support fellow Oz makers, making this even more strange and worthy of a caution, no?

    Seriously though, it's important to know. Again, as far as I know, from what RM Williams and C&J sellers (England and Canada both) have told me, Kiwi paste has silicone (i.e., as a water proofing agent), advising against its use. Of course, this may have changed since then. Anyway, I mention this as silicone isn't getting anywhere near my shoes/boots.

    EDIT: as to the insta-shine things and sponge stuff--I wholeheartedly agree with you, and well put. Thankfully, there's a ton of real polishes, be it wax or cream out there, as you say, but I'm just not so sure about Kiwi...just saying, that's all, based on what I was told. Cheers.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2011
  8. dasai

    dasai Well-Known Member

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    Sep 8, 2010
    Location:
    Japan
    Shoe size question:

    I usually take a size 10 (D or E width) in American dress shoes, and a size 9 (E or F width) in UK dress shoes. Edward Green displays two sizes in their shoes: a UK size, and a US size that is a half-size up from the UK size. For a proper fit, should I trust the UK measurement or the US one?
     
  9. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

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    My understanding, and some googling seems back this up, is that only the parade gloss contains silicone. And I did confirm that EG uses it, and got one citation of Cleverly too.

    Kiwi has been the standard for how many decades? If it was that bad, there would be much stronger competitors, and my local cobbler probably would have options other than a full line of kiwi pastes and creams.
     
  10. CuffLinks28

    CuffLinks28 Active Member

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    Aug 3, 2011
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    In the General Seattle Area
    Thank yo very much [​IMG]
     
  11. REguy

    REguy Well-Known Member

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    I'm trying to post a classified in B&S. My description field doesn't have the functionality of the old system, and nothing happens when I hit submit. I've tried searching for info but haven't found anything helpful. Can someone enlighten me?
     
  12. BoomDiggs

    BoomDiggs Well-Known Member

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    Apr 5, 2009
    I am looking for standard grey flannel pants. Around what weight should the fabric be? Ideally they would wear pretty warm as I live in the midwest.
     
  13. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

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    I would go for about 14oz
     
  14. REguy

    REguy Well-Known Member

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  15. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Well-Known Member

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    Kiwi is used by the craftsmen at Edward Green, etc. Sometimes you don't need to go with the more expensive option.
     
  16. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Well-Known Member

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    Trust EG. They're known for being a half-size off, rather than a whole size like the other makers.
     
  17. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Well-Known Member

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    I got a weird salesman vibe from Ernesto. I have a better recommendation for you. Based on a tip from shirtmaven (CEGO), I went to Tom Lettieri, who has owned a custom/MTM suit factory in South Philly for 40-plus years. I think he may do Ernesto's suits. Anyhow, Tom did a great job with a sports jacket and I'm planning on going back to him for a suit and overcoat. It's trim, canvassed and looks good. It was $475 last winter CMT (I had Porter and Harding Glorious Twelfth shipped to him). I think suits, including stock fabric, are about $750. It's really great to visit his factory, which has an old-time feel. His number is (610) 733-5480 and his address is 1919 South Bancroft St.
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2011
  18. gmu85

    gmu85 New Member

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    Aug 4, 2011
  19. The Thin Man

    The Thin Man Well-Known Member

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    They're fine, though sweater vests universally look better under jackets. I'm sure it's fine with darker khakis, although ideally you have a contrast in tones between sweater and trousers.
     
  20. Philip

    Philip Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    598
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    Jun 11, 2011
    anyone know where i csn buy double monk strap shoes for under 250?
     

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