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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. enginerd917

    enginerd917 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    143
    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2009
    In the market for one or two dress pants, having done the research I'm really only confused by a few things:

    Are 100% cotten pants to be considered "dress pants"

    I assumed wool, and everyone always says purchase a medium gray and charcoal grey as the first two pairs. What weave? Gabardine can develop a shine correct? Is a textured weave such as flannel even a logical purchase with only one or two "dress" pants in rotation?
     
  2. Patrologia

    Patrologia Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    732
    Joined:
    Oct 7, 2010
    Location:
    Milwaukee
    I saw a Hart Schaffner Marx label at a thrift store tonight I wasn't familiar with. No "trumpeter" character at all, just "Hart Schaffner Marx" printed across a straight line. Is this/Was this a new line, a cheap line, a fashion line (the cut seemed different than most HSM suits I've seen) or something altogether different?
     
  3. Flea Spray

    Flea Spray Active Member

    Messages:
    28
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2010
    Not knowing much about bespoke suits, perhaps this is a silly question, but...

    Given that they're so accurately made to your exact body shape, does this mean you have to watch your weight very carefully and not fluctuate, or are there allowances made into the designs that let the suit still look good after Christmas (within reason)?
     
  4. EZETHATSME

    EZETHATSME Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    779
    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2009
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    ^ Flea Spray -

    Although bespoke suits are made to your exact body shape, there is a wide spectrum of how loose they fit, based on personal preference. In other words, your tailor can make you a very slim fitting suit, or one that has more drape and a looser fit.

    So, the answer will depend on how the suit is made.

    EZ
     
  5. GlenCoe

    GlenCoe Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    965
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    Jan 29, 2010
    Location:
    Prague
  6. retozimmermann

    retozimmermann Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    190
    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Location:
    Seoul
    Not knowing much about bespoke suits, perhaps this is a silly question, but...

    Given that they're so accurately made to your exact body shape, does this mean you have to watch your weight very carefully and not fluctuate, or are there allowances made into the designs that let the suit still look good after Christmas (within reason)?


    Whether or not a suit is made for your particular measurements is not the important factor. Any garment that fits properly will lose its fit if the your body changes dramatically. If the fit leaves a bit of "wiggle-room" in the beginning, then of course you can gain a bit of weight without having to alter your suit. A good tailor should be able to alter any reasonably well-constructed suit and whether it was made to measure or otherwise doesn't make a fundamental difference.
     
  7. stevenvg

    stevenvg Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    669
    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2008
    Location:
    In the gutter looking at the stars
    can anyone identify what leather this is? the cheaney representative told me from the model name that it is pig but it doesn't look like it at all..

    camel maybe?

    [​IMG]

    Uploaded with ImageShack.us
     
  8. sum1else

    sum1else Member

    Messages:
    22
    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2010
    I just got my RL Darltons. I am Wondering if the rubber on the bottom is replaceable without redoing the entire shoe. If so, then I wouldn't really need to get taps... This is just a random image i found illustrating what im talking about Thanks
    [​IMG]
     
  9. AEB A4

    AEB A4 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    70
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2010
    I saw these really nice navy large check/windowpane pants. The check was a little bit lighter than the color of the trouser itself, and almost unnoticeable. The checks where quite large. Anyone have any idea who might sell similair pants. Ive looked for pictures but cant find anything.
     
  10. acecow

    acecow Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,135
    Joined:
    Dec 18, 2009
    Location:
    Not Manhattan, unfortunately
    I saw these really nice navy large check/windowpane pants. The check was a little bit lighter than the color of the trouser itself, and almost unnoticeable. The checks where quite large. Anyone have any idea who might sell similair pants. Ive looked for pictures but cant find anything.

    I'd assume those were pants from a suit, although it might not be true. In any case, you can try any MTM place (like moderntailor.com) and they will be able to make you pants out of any fabric you choose.
     
  11. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,642
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    can anyone identify what leather this is? the cheaney representative told me from the model name that it is pig but it doesn't look like it at all..

    camel maybe?


    Looks like pig to me. What makes you think that the people who made it and have the information on file are wrong?
     
  12. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,642
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    I just got my RL Darltons. I am Wondering if the rubber on the bottom is replaceable without redoing the entire shoe. If so, then I wouldn't really need to get taps...

    This is just a random image i found illustrating what im talking about
    Thanks


    If they even need it (from that picture, not sure if they do), you can just get the heels replaced. I don't think most of the rubber dovetail pieces can be replaced on their own easily, but the heel can be done easily and cheaply.
     
  13. AEB A4

    AEB A4 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    70
    Joined:
    Aug 12, 2010
    I'd assume those were pants from a suit, although it might not be true. In any case, you can try any MTM place (like moderntailor.com) and they will be able to make you pants out of any fabric you choose.

    I was hoping to avoid MTM due to prices but even so, I went on Modern Tailor and they didnt have the fabric. Ill keep looking around though. I sware I have seen the pants before but just cant remember where. Thanks for the help [​IMG]
     
  14. gregor

    gregor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    282
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    Jun 18, 2009
    Location:
    NB, Canada
  15. Newstyle

    Newstyle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    268
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    Sep 17, 2010
    o I was wondering, as a 28 yr old college student who has no job, I have some extra funds right now and I was looking to buy some Alden Indy 403's. What are the opinions on me purchasing these boots or spending the money to get some quality pieces for my wardrobe? I have also been looking to get some quality shirts to layer under sweaters and some nice alternatives to jeans, maybe some wool pants and some corduroys. On the other hand I do not own a nice pair of shoes and feel like I would be lacking in that area of my wardrobe.
     
  16. InVain

    InVain New Member

    Messages:
    2
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    Nov 8, 2010
  17. Zaarin

    Zaarin Member

    Messages:
    13
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2010
    (Didn't know if I should post this in Men's Clothing or Denim/Streetwear so sorry in advance)

    Business casual is the dress code at work. It's very laid back as in sneakers/chinos/whatever. Black slacks are rare. Cold snowy winter is coming up and I'm not sure what to wear. I'm going with a black sterlingwear peacoat, X pants and probably my brown LL Bean Katahdins.

    1) Would brown boots & a black peacoat work? I don't know if the no brown & black together rule applies

    2) What type of pants COULD I wear for the boots to work? Not black so then chinos in the winter? Black peacoat, chinos, brown boots? Would that work?
     
  18. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,603
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2003
    (Didn't know if I should post this in Men's Clothing or Denim/Streetwear so sorry in advance)

    Business casual is the dress code at work. It's very laid back as in sneakers/chinos/whatever. Black slacks are rare. Cold snowy winter is coming up and I'm not sure what to wear. I'm going with a black sterlingwear peacoat, X pants and probably my brown LL Bean Katahdins.

    1) Would brown boots & a black peacoat work? I don't know if the no brown & black together rule applies

    2) What type of pants COULD I wear for the boots to work? Not black so then chinos in the winter? Black peacoat, chinos, brown boots? Would that work?

    It's not clear whether you already have the black peacoat. If not, navy is a much better choice. If not, wearing brown boots with them is probably not the worst thing in the world. Get some moleskin or corduroy trousers in earth tones (taupe, brown, olive, etc) for winter.
     
  19. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,603
    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2003
    How difficult is it for a tailor to shorten the arms with functional buttonholes?

    Is it going to be an expensive alteration?

    The sleeve has to be detached and shortened from the shoulder so it is a more time-consuming and difficult alteration than shortening it from the other end. It's also more expensive. Exact pricing depends on the tailor, of course.
     
  20. Newstyle

    Newstyle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    268
    Joined:
    Sep 17, 2010
    Anyone have experience with Ralph Lauren classic fit shirts? I'm 5'8 and 150lbs athletic build. Will this shirt in a small be billowy on me?
     

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