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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. Slh

    Slh Well-Known Member

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    Italy
  2. Churchill W

    Churchill W Well-Known Member

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  3. John P

    John P Member

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    Perhaps the silliest question of the day, but here goes...

    My shirt cuffs typically have two buttons, one button for a loose cuff and the other for a more snug cuff. Is there any sartorial aesthetic reason or "rule" regarding which button should be used?

    My cuffs tend to fit better when I use the snug button. If using the snug button is not "against the rules," I'd rather not have the cuffs resized/cuff buttons re-located.

    Thanks in advance!


    - John
     
  4. Arnobuyens

    Arnobuyens Well-Known Member

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    Depends on how big your wrists are. I usually use the first button on my left side where my watch is and the second button on my right.
     
  5. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Chinos and a shirt are exactly what these should be worn with. They're just about fit for a jacket and tie in an informal setting, but suede is fundamentally casual, and that would be just right.

    Other than a black oxford, there's not much in the shoe world that is too formal for a pair of chinos and an open shirt. On the contrary, the smarter the shoe, the sharper the casual look.
     
  6. Slh

    Slh Well-Known Member

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    thank you mimo. I think they can be pretty versatile shoes both with chinos, or jacket, tie and smarter trousers. My only doubt is that the sole is rubber, not leather.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
  7. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Well, although that feels more casual again to me, it's a personal thing. I prefer leather soles too, but especially with chinos, who cares? Anyway, if you want a suede oxford, there are plenty around.
     
  8. Slh

    Slh Well-Known Member

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    I would like to wear them with smarter trousers too, eg wool trousers.
    I was looking for meermin because they have a good quality/price ratio.
     
  9. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    As long as they're in stock - delivery can be hit and miss with Meermin - a few days if they happen to be in stock, up to two months if they're not. The website will not give any indication as to which. And you get what you pay for. The Loakes I linked to have leather soles, are less likely to have quality control issues, and will be shipped to you in 2-3 days wherever you are. But you're right, it's an extra $80 or so, and I do have some "Classic" Meermins that I like just fine. Each to his own, and good luck.
     
  10. TheBlackBruceWayne

    TheBlackBruceWayne Well-Known Member

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    Can a suit be altered down one size?

    Suit is tagged at 40L but runs slim and would need it to be a 38R. Jacket also has working buttonholes which may pose an issue.I would need 1/2 inch chopped off the sleeves
    measurements:
    Chest (pit-to-pit, flat across):

    20.0"

    Sleeves (from shoulder to cuff):

    25.0"

    Shoulders (flat across):

    17.5"

    Length (bottom of collar to tail):

    30.5"

    Pants

    Inseam: 31.75 (3.0 extra material)

    Waist: 17.0 (2.0 extra material)
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
  11. Koala-T

    Koala-T Well-Known Member

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    It can be done, but it's going to cost you a lot of money, and you better go to the best tailor you can find to have it done, because it's going to be very very tricky to alter the shoulders, chest, length, and sleeves (since they are surgeon's cuffs they might have to do the adjustment from the shoulder rather than the cuff). You're probably looking at $200-$300 worth of tailoring expense, and there's no guarantee that it will come out looking the way you want it to. Probably better to find a jacket that is a closer match in the shoulders, chest and length, and have the waist and sleeves adjusted as needed, unless this is like an Attolini or Kiton.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
  12. Arnobuyens

    Arnobuyens Well-Known Member

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    It is perfectly possible to alter a suit down a whole size as long as the shoulders fit well and the tailor knows what he/she's doing. A sleeve with functioning buttonholes is quite impossible to have lengthened, but may be shortened from the shoulder.
     
  13. TheBlackBruceWayne

    TheBlackBruceWayne Well-Known Member

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    Apr 4, 2010
    Thanks for the input guys.

    If I'm measuring correctly, the chest and jacket length are only .5" longer than my best fitting jacket. And the shoulders are .5" shorter than it. It is a Phineas Cole /Paul Stuart
     
  14. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Well-Known Member

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    Almost any "downsize" alteration is possible, given money and a sufficiently skilled alterations tailor. But some cost more than they're generally worth, and some tend to yield results which just aren't entirely satisfying.

    Downsizing your suit from a 40L to a 38R is likely to cost more than it's worth, and to yield less than completely satisfying results. Unless there's some overwhelming reason for you to wear this suit - maybe it's the suit you wore 25 years ago, when you were presumably taller and more muscular, and when you blew up the evil Emperor's hot tub, and now the Rebel Alliance has requested you wear it to the ceremony where they're going to award you a Lifetime Achievement Award - you'd likely be best advised not to try it.

    If you wear a 38R, buy a 38R. Do not try making a 40L work.

    Similarly, if you wear size 9D shoes, don't buy size 10EE shoes, figuring there's maybe some way to shrink them down enough to fit you.
     
    2 people like this.
  15. 123p123

    123p123 New Member

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    Feb 9, 2015
    I have a dark navy suit and would like a knitted tie and tie bar that would work well. Any suggestions on colour and style of tie bar etc?

    Photos or web-links would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
     
  16. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Well-Known Member

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    Just bear in mind that knitted ties tend to be a little more casual than most silk ties. I'm not saying this is inherently bad - it can be exactly what you want, in some situations. But sometimes it's not what you want. So just be aware of this.

    As for the tie bar, I don't often wear tie bars, so I'm not well qualified to advise you. But since somebody has to ask, I'll ask - Are you sure you even want to wear a tie bar? It's one of those accessories which has recently regained some degree of trendiness, but it's certainly not an "All well-dressed men should wear one," accessory.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. jmeb

    jmeb Well-Known Member

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    Tie bar on a knit tie strikes me as wrong and overly foppish. But I'm a young guy with conservative style and liberal ideals.

    I'd opt for a silk knit or grenadine with a navy suit assuming its worsted. If it is a thicker fabric (flannel, tweed etc) a wool knit. If it is a cotton or linen suit, silk or cotton knit.
     
  18. Churchill W

    Churchill W Well-Known Member

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    My experience has been that you usually get the two buttons on the cuff if you bought a shirt with two sleeve numbers, e.g., 15-32/33. The tighter button is for a 32 sleeve and the looser button is for a 33 sleeve. I usually only buy dress/sport shirts now with only one sleeve length number so most of my shirts only have the one button and possibly a gauntlet button.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Koala-T

    Koala-T Well-Known Member

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    Tie bars with knit ties look awesome. Go for it. Make it a shorter bar. Match it to your belt or suspender hardware if possible. Try the Knottery, or Chipp. Both have good knits for good prices. Color of tie will depend largely on your shirt, but if you go with solid white or solid light blue shirt, just about anything will work. Get some color in your life. Green or Red.
     
    Last edited: Mar 11, 2015
  20. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Well-Known Member

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    But since you will keep your jacket on, and buttoned (save when seated, perhaps), it won't be readily apparent that your tie bar matches your belt or your suspender hardware.
     

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