1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. budapest12

    budapest12 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,038
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2012
  2. cuongtelecoms

    cuongtelecoms Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Nov 26, 2013
    Location:
    Vietnam
    Thanks CruzAzul for your suggestion. I will consider this and get some more oppinions from my tailor
     
  3. bradp

    bradp Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    752
    Joined:
    May 27, 2014
    Location:
    NY
    Is there any significance to a retailer advertising some things as super 120s, 130s, etc. and others as "pure wool"?

    E.g., suit supply has a suit advertised as "super 130s wool from vitale barberis canonico," then for some odd trousers, it just says "pure wool by vitale barberis canonico"
     
  4. deadAngle

    deadAngle Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    288
    Joined:
    Dec 8, 2012
    Retailers use these numbers because consumers think higher numbers mean more advanced and more worth buying. This is not always the case.

    Higher super numbers mean thinner fibres used in the weaving process. Thinner fibres are lighter weight, but they're not as durable and become shiny very quickly. The thinner fibres mean the fabric has to be woven more tightly, and doesn't breathe as well as a more loosely woven, lower number wool. "Pure wool" is just wool without the weight advertised.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2014
  5. CTLION

    CTLION Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    265
    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2013
    Location:
    Florida
    I am looking for a striped dress shirt with horizontal stripes...with or without a white collar. Can anyone point me in the right direction. I found one in a mens shop locally made by Castangia, but the price is $425 which just isn't going to happen for a shirt at best I wear once every 3 weeks and probably less than that.

    Any assistance or recommendations will be greatly appreciated.
     
  6. 4frnt

    4frnt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    95
    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2010
    Is there an extensive thread on here that focuses on unstructured blazers rather than a specific brand? I am more of a streetwear and denim lurker so dont venture to this side very often. Thanks
     
  7. All Tatters

    All Tatters Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    137
    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2012
    Have you got your sizing down? If so, you could consider custom ordering one.
     
  8. Seamless

    Seamless Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    422
    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2014
    Location:
    Overland Park
    I recently received a box of 100 ties from a shop closing down. I'm not sure what to match it with. Any ideas on what to wear it with?[​IMG]
     
  9. Jurgis

    Jurgis Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    86
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2014
    Location:
    The Mitten
    Are worsted wool 120 rags particularly good for anything? I have an orphan Corneliani suit jacket that has very visible moth holes on the back left shoulder. I'm sure it's beyond repair. I think I'll harvest the horn buttons, but I was wondering if the cloth is particularly good for anything, such as shining shoes? It seems a shame to tear up a nice garment, but I don't know what else to do with it.
     
  10. Jurgis

    Jurgis Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    86
    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2014
    Location:
    The Mitten
    Predominantly navy, dark green, or brown suit or sport coat, with a plain white shirt, I'd say. With 100 ties to choose from, I doubt I'd wear this one much, but I don't really wear paisley.
     
  11. backtaro

    backtaro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    235
    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2010
    Location:
    Seattle, WA
    Does anyone have experience with Canali 14000 series suit? How is its silhouette compared to E. Zegna Milano or Cesare Attolini? Attolini fit me like a glove but a bit on the tight side and Zegna Milano fit me perfect with some room for movement.

    I tried the 13000 series Canali suit (the one that is commonly sell in the US) and it looks quite structured, which is a bit odd with my broad shoulders. I did some research on SF and the general consensus is the higher the series number, the less padding and more waist suppression it get on Canali.

    Any opinion would be greatly appreciate!
     
  12. mianmannoi

    mianmannoi Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2014
    Any thoughts on getting a bespoke tuxedo? (I'm in NYC)

    I have been looking for a wedding tuxedo for myself, and, armed with some advice from people posting on this site, have looked at a few brands in stores as well as checking out Black Lapel. Then my fiancee said she want to buy me a bespoke tux for the wedding. After spending some time telling her it's too much money and makes no sense, I agreed to at least look into it.

    After trying on a few OTR, I think my other option is Black Lapel, which is online MTM but I would go into their offices to be measured and talk to them about what I want. Those start at $529, and I assume that one way or another I would be pushing that upwards with whatever options or changes I end up with. I really don't know what bespoke suits cost, other than various comments posted here and some style pages articles. Any ideas on what this will cost, and what it means if different tailors charge very different prices? Do different bespoke shops create suits with a different look, so that I should understand what a house's style is before picking one? I want a classic look, maybe continental looking, though I'm not experienced enough to really fully know what that means.

    Also, more generally, is there a consensus view here as to whether it's worth it for a tux? Will a bespoke tux actually look a lot better than MTM or a high-end brand OTR?

    If I do try bespoke, do people have recommendations for who to go to in New York? Or even a road map of what to look for? Even getting my head around the possibility that I might do MTM was a major step for me, and this leaves me feeling completely out of my league.

    Thank you for any information or advice you might be able to share.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2014
  13. mfridman

    mfridman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    89
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2013
    Location:
    Riga, Latvia
    So the summer has officially arrived in my part of the world, the temperature outside being 85F and pure sunshine, no clouds to see anywhere.

    Given that I walk to my office (about 15-20 minutes walk), and I usually wear a suit or a trousers/odd jacket combo with a tie to work, is it OK to take off your jacket while outside, and carry it in over your arm?

    It is too hot to walk with a jacket on in direct sunlight, no matter the fabric (I wore an unconstructed 100% linen jacket today and still felt like I was about to melt).
     
  14. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,777
    Joined:
    Oct 8, 2007
    Location:
    Venezia, Italy
    

    Of course this is fine.
     
  15. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,042
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    

    You have to ask?
     
  16. Fred G. Unn

    Fred G. Unn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,749
    Joined:
    Mar 5, 2011
    

    Eek! The photo on their website does not exactly inspire confidence that they know what they are doing. Let's count the errors ...
    [​IMG]

    Online MTM is generally a bad idea though. You have a zillion better options in NYC. Assuming $500ish is your price range, I'd look at SuitSupply or eHaberdasher's Benjamin tuxedos. Go to Madison Ave and check out Brooks Brothers and Paul Stuart as well. While you are there you might as well check out whatever Saks and Bergdorf has too. Getting something OTR and having it tailored will often produce better results than online MTM. If you have your heart set on something bespoke, just let us know your budget and I'm sure people can make NYC recommendations. The cheapest I know of would be something like Mr Ned which starts at $1,050 and prices for others go up from there.
     
    1 person likes this.
  17. mianmannoi

    mianmannoi Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2014
    Yes, that photo is horrible. It's the main reason I haven't already ordered from Black Lapel. If I bring a photo to a tailor for the purpose of saying, "please don't make me look like this", that might be the one.

    But the BlackTieGuide.com guy had one made to review, including a vest of a type that was new to them, and he was happy with the results, which was heartening given the source. http://blog.blacktieguide.com/2014/02/17/review-black-lapel-2/#comment-9926

    If the Black Lapel had this photo up on their website, I would have already ordered:

    [​IMG]
     
  18. ter1413

    ter1413 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,042
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2009
    Location:
    Central Booking
    

    Do you find yourself having occasions to wear tuxedos?
    If so, whet is your budget?

    If not, why not have her buy you a suit....
     
  19. mianmannoi

    mianmannoi Active Member

    Messages:
    27
    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2014
    I did try Brooks Brothers, and didn't like the way the jackets fit on me, and went to Rothmans and tried on various brands there. I didn't try Paul Stuart because they show only one Tuxedo on their website, which has a description that uses words like "lean contemporary silhouette", "narrower" arms, "slimmer" trousers. All the things I don't want.

    I am shocked at the Mr. Ned price - I had expected I was looking at $2500-3500 for a bespoke tuxedo. How is Mr. Ned so cheap?

    I don't have my heart set on bespoke, but I do have my heart set on looking good. I will pay more if I believe it is making a real difference. For $500-600 I can get a pretty nice tux. So if I spend $3000, whether bespoke or OTR, in order for it to be worth spending the extra money I need to feel the heavens open up singing when I put it on. On the other hand if I spend even half that on a suit and just feel like a have a very nice suit, as compared to the nice suit I would have had for $600, it won't be worth it.

    So other than Mr. Ned, do people have suggestions, and opinions, on bespoke tailors in NYC, or on other ways to do better than Black lapel?
     
  20. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,806
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    @David Reeves does bespoke work in NYC and has his own thread here with many pictures of his work.

    I think he'll come in at the high end of your budget range, though. It won't be Mr. Ned prices from what I can tell.
     
    Last edited: Jul 7, 2014

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by