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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. onix

    onix Well-Known Member

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    Jan 19, 2009
    I don't know. I saw one at a local thrift store. I don't paricularly like the design, but thought there might be some useful information (e.g. production year, value, rarity, etc.) to be determined by the model number. It appears most Hermes tie sellers quote those numbers so it would seem somebody, somewhere has a library of patterns/numbers.

    Yeah, the number is only meaningful to some, especially to collectors. I have a reference built by myself, and I am sure that other collectors also have their own references, but no-one ever put them online. Unlike Hermes scarf which has extensive online reference. I guess, us guys just want to keep things to ourselves. [​IMG]
     
  2. Selvaggio

    Selvaggio Well-Known Member

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    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Australia
    Does anybody know anything about the label, "Berry, London - The Finest English Clothes" or the fabric label "Arabelli". These are on a quite well made navy blazer (db, full canvass, brass and enamel buttons)?

    Many Thanks.


    Just bumping this to chance my luck...
     
  3. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

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    4,603
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    Dec 6, 2003
    I need to buy my first suiting for a funeral. I have no idea what to get. I have been looking at the Jcrew Ludlow Suit because it is very hot in Florida right now. What color should I be looking at? I really have no use for a black suit at the moment and might get some other uses out of a khaki jacket. Can I wear the Khaki jacket, a dress shirt, a tie, and a pair of my APCs? Navy?
    Charcoal is an appropriate color for a funeral. With a suitably muted tie and white shirt, navy would also work. Black is frowned upon here for reasons you can search and read about if you do not already know. Personally, I think jeans are inappropriate for a funeral and the whole "It's hot in Florida" excuse doesn't fly.
     
  4. kgmessier

    kgmessier Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Mar 27, 2010
    Location:
    Boston, MA
    Charcoal is an appropriate color for a funeral. With a suitably muted tie and white shirt, navy would also work. Black is frowned upon here for reasons you can search and read about if you do not already know. Personally, I think jeans are inappropriate for a funeral and the whole "It's hot in Florida" excuse doesn't fly.
    I don't think he's planning on wearing jeans to the funeral. Rather, I think he's wondering if he can pair the jacket from that suit with some jeans at a later date, so he's not buying the suit solely for the purpose of wearing it to the funeral. - Keith
     
  5. enarchay

    enarchay Well-Known Member

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    Aug 22, 2009
    I've heard that Brooks Brothers outlets mostly sell made-for-outlet lines that are of significantly lower quality. I've heard that the line is "346." I went into an outlet today for the memorial day sale and almost all of their items were "346." There were a few "1818" shirts, but they were non-iron. For which BB models should I keep a look out, and which ones should I avoid (besides 346)? Thanks.
     
  6. SpooPoker

    SpooPoker Well-Known Member

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    From what I understand, the 2 letters denote the artist, the first 2 numbers denote the model year and style and the last 2 denote the color and pattern... something to that effect. Is that what you are on as well?

    Yeah, the number is only meaningful to some, especially to collectors. I have a reference built by myself, and I am sure that other collectors also have their own references, but no-one ever put them online. Unlike Hermes scarf which has extensive online reference. I guess, us guys just want to keep things to ourselves. [​IMG]
     
  7. gregor

    gregor Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    282
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    Jun 18, 2009
    Location:
    NB, Canada
    when I tie my bowties I have one side with a bow and one side with only fabric on the other side. I am doing it wrong or are there just different ways to tie bow ties? Is this the SF approved way?
    GM
     
  8. onix

    onix Well-Known Member

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    From what I understand, the 2 letters denote the artist, the first 2 numbers denote the model year and style and the last 2 denote the color and pattern... something to that effect. Is that what you are on as well?
    The numbering system is a bit more complicated than most people think. And it evolves over time. Here is a brief overview. Here is for the silk twill. - Hermes first introduced Hermes ties and labeled them "## xx" (for example, the popular 59 EA). Now, most documents online claim that the xx is the name of the artist, or the code for the design department, or the one who hand stitched the ties, etc., but I personally highly doubt that, since all of them end with A). - In the early 70s, they started expanding their market and introduced a lot new designs, thus, the 2 digits must be extended to 3 digits. Hence we have "### xx". - At the end of the 80s, the 3-digit numbers ran out, so they started using 4 digit, hence "7### xx" - At the end of the 90s, these 7000s numbers ran out, so they started "5### xx". So the newest ties are 5000s, with the higher the last 3 digits the newer. For example, 5465 to 5486 = Fall/Winter 2009, 5430 to 5460 = Spring/Summer 2009, etc., Other than silk twill: Also at the end of the 80s, the company started producing different lines (heavy silk, wool, cashmere, linen, etc.), and new numbering system is required. So they labeled all of them with the following format: "##-####-T##" where the first ## indicates the type: 00 means the classic silk twill, 75 means the heavy silk, the second group of 4-digits #### is the design number. The last 2 digits = the color code. For example, this popular zebra one is 00-7110-T55 (00 = silk twill, 7110 = design number, this is about 1992, 55 = the color code, here is orange). All of these codes can be found in the price tag, around the bar code, or in the new heavy silk ties. [​IMG] Another example, this is 48-8906-T02 (48 = winter weight wool, 8906 = design number, 02 is the color code) [​IMG]
     
  9. Jay Gatsby

    Jay Gatsby Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 9, 2009
    Where do you draw the line for wearing balmoral shoes in regards to formality? Suits only? Slacks? I saw a guy in MC say that he wore his AE Park Ave's with jeans. This confused me. [​IMG]
     
  10. runner-guy

    runner-guy Well-Known Member

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  11. daruma

    daruma Well-Known Member

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    is a welt which is attached to the insole automatically a goodyear welt?
     
  12. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    is a welt which is attached to the insole automatically a goodyear welt?
    No, there are other kinds. I'd suggest taking a look at Andew Harris's "Shoes explained" article which is linked from the pinned "HOF: Glossary of terms/ Best posts/ FAQ/ Links" thread in the Men's Clothing forum.
     
  13. onix

    onix Well-Known Member

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    is a welt which is attached to the insole automatically a goodyear welt?

    No, it also depends on how things are attached. Scroll down just a little on this page:

    http://www.bexley.com/Bexley/shoe-TE...L-TECHN-EN.htm
     
  14. dah328

    dah328 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,603
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    Dec 6, 2003
    Where do you draw the line for wearing balmoral shoes in regards to formality? Suits only? Slacks? I saw a guy in MC say that he wore his AE Park Ave's with jeans. This confused me. [​IMG]
    Yeah, I think that before you accept something posted in MC as accurate or reasonable, you need to have some degree of consensus among a majority of posters or if you are going to take a minority position, you need to recognize some form of elevated credibility or authority from those posters. As an example, DFWII and bengal-stripe are very credible individual posters on the subject of men's shoes and I would be considerably more likely to trust information from them on that subject. Lately there has been an influx of posters who, whether from ignorance or otherwise, frequently advocate ideas that are either out of the mainstream of traditional men's tailored clothing or aesthetically questionable or both. I would consider bals with jeans, especially sleek captoe bals such as AE Park Aves, as well outside the norm. I see that combination as a fundamental clash between the implicit formality of the Park Aves and the implicit informality of jeans.

    As for the precise line where bals may no longer be worn, I think you need to consider a variety of factors that contribute to the formality of your attire. Not all balmorals are equally formal. For example, a mid-brown brogued bal is considerably less formal than a sleek black captoe. In the same way, not all odd jacket and trouser combinations are equally formal. A navy blazer paired with flannel gray trousers is more formal than a rough tweed jacket paired with moleskins. Black captoes could certainly be worn with the former but would look out of place with the latter. I think there should be a kind of corresponding sliding scale between the formality of your shoes and your jacket and trouser combination.
     
  15. kirancp

    kirancp New Member

    Messages:
    4
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    May 29, 2010
    Need urgent help please. Whats the best formal black oxford cap toe style shoes money can buy in India specifically Mumbai. I need to be able to try the shoes before buying (the only condition).

    I dont know of any bespoke shoe-makers in this part of country. All we have are some luxury brand names like ferragamo, canali, hugo boss and some local brands.

    Any help is much appreciated.
     
  16. click here

    click here Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    813
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    Jun 24, 2008
    When getting your clothes altered from a tailor, if you are not satisfied with the results and you want them to fix it up, would you have to pay extra to get the tailor to redo it or should the tailor fix it up for free?
     
  17. taxgenius

    taxgenius Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,745
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    Mar 23, 2007
    When getting your clothes altered from a tailor, if you are not satisfied with the results and you want them to fix it up, would you have to pay extra to get the tailor to redo it or should the tailor fix it up for free?

    The latter - assuming the tailor goofed.
     
  18. GQ1

    GQ1 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    300
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    Dec 7, 2009
    Location:
    Los Angeles
    Any suggestions for how to sport white color wingtips? Thanks.
     
  19. jhva3

    jhva3 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    270
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2010
    I've heard that Brooks Brothers outlets mostly sell made-for-outlet lines that are of significantly lower quality. I've heard that the line is "346." I went into an outlet today for the memorial day sale and almost all of their items were "346." There were a few "1818" shirts, but they were non-iron. For which BB models should I keep a look out, and which ones should I avoid (besides 346)?

    Thanks.


    I think where you are getting fouled up is that at the outlet, they hang tags that say 346 on everything, even if it is fancy stuff like Black Fleece. You need to look and make sure that there isn't anything that says 346 that is on the garment itself.
     
  20. enarchay

    enarchay Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    541
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    Aug 22, 2009
    I think where you are getting fouled up is that at the outlet, they hang tags that say 346 on everything, even if it is fancy stuff like Black Fleece. You need to look and make sure that there isn't anything that says 346 that is on the garment itself.

    No, I'm talking about actually inside the garment, on the tag. The only other shirts I could find were the 1818s, but it was a very small selection and all non-iron (I'd prefer iron, I think).
     

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