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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. achillesheel

    achillesheel Member

    Messages:
    5
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    Jun 18, 2013
    Portland Tailor? I'm looking for both suit fabric repair and tailoring. I've seen emphatic descriptions about Abraham Lee on the east side and strong recommendations about Silvian Nita downtown. Being a fan of subtlety and not a fan of subsidizing expensive rent, I'm far more inclined to go to Mr. Lee, who is described as the "real deal" and is hidden on the east side in a dry cleaner, than to Mr. Nita, who boldly titled his downtown shop "European Master Tailor." However, all of Mr. Lee's recent reviews on Yelp have been negative, very negative. I'm left wondering if the man who worked on Johnny Carson's suits might be past his prime.

    Since I value the opinions shared on this site more than those on Yelp, would anyone care to share their personal opinions about Messrs. Lee and Nita?

    Thanks.
     
  2. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    33,325
    Joined:
    Oct 16, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    It takes my tailor about 8 hours to complete one of my dress shirts. That ends up being about a 2 week wait usually.
     
  3. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    Aug 16, 2012
    I'm not sure you and the OP are in the same line of shirts ;)
     
  4. mountainstyle

    mountainstyle Member

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    Mar 21, 2012
    Thanks guys [msulinski, mimo, Subutai] being new to dressing with class, sometimes I need a little help breaking out of the old ways.


    Regarding my previous post about black shoes. After much consideration and a few other threads, I finally realized what you were all trying to say. Weddings, funerals, and job interviews demand a more formal shoe. Bluchers and Derbys are more casual. Therefore, buy a Balmoral.

    Does it matter whether they are plain toe, medallion on a plain toe, plain cap toe or medallioned cap toe? I suspect the medallions decrease formality, but wasn't able to confirm that via my styleforum seach skills.
     
  5. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    14,543
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    Jul 15, 2009
    Can anyone tell me how to determine if there's enough material to let out in the crotch of a pair of pants? Should I be looking for fabric in the actual crotch seam or on the sides of the zipper?

    My tailor once showed me but I forgot.

    A picture guide would be especially helpful.
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2013
  6. The_International

    The_International Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
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    Sep 8, 2010
    Gentlemen,

    Is there a way to reduce (or eliminate) the squeaking that comes from the tounge area on calfskin shoes? Would Lexol Cleaner/Conditioner in the affected areas help at all? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!
     
  7. TM79

    TM79 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,805
    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2010
    Location:
    Boston
    Can (or should) something like a navy linen sports coat be worn with linen trousers if it's not a suit? Or is it fine to wear the jacket with something like an open weave or tropical wool trouser as well?

    If you can't tell, my spring/summer wardrobe is really lacking.
     
  8. mountainstyle

    mountainstyle Member

    Messages:
    21
    Joined:
    Mar 21, 2012
    "Is there a way to reduce (or eliminate) the squeaking that comes from the tounge area on calfskin shoes? Would Lexol Cleaner/Conditioner in the affected areas help at all? Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks!"

    I don't have personal experience, but I've read here a number of times that people have had success using talcum powder to quiet their squeaking monkstraps. You might give that a try.
     
  9. The_International

    The_International Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    77
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    Sep 8, 2010
    

    Thanks! I'll give the talcum powder a shot.
     
  10. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jul 15, 2009
    Talcum powder really? That could get messy.

    I'd suggest getting a very thin cloth tongue pad from your cobbler. (Provided you have enough room in the instep)
     
  11. maraca2020

    maraca2020 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    80
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    Jul 30, 2012
    Any suggestions on good value linen shirts for summer? Looking primarily for white shirts, but not too see-through
     
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2013
  12. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    ^ Kamakura should be releasing some linen shirts soon.
     
  13. mkarim

    mkarim Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Sep 24, 2008
    

    Me too.
     
  14. xxxamazexxx

    xxxamazexxx Well-Known Member

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    Feb 4, 2013
    These are called 'creases', and they are ironed into the pants to give them more shape and a slight air of formal. One trick I've recently discovered is that pairing creased pants with decidedly casual tops (white t-shirt) and casual-leaning shoes (desert boots, mocs) lends a certain dimension to the look.
     
  15. lukejackson

    lukejackson Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    713
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    Jun 25, 2013
    Hi guys,

    New to this site, so excuse any ignorance I might display. Got this jacket on ebay for 60AUD, Canali, just wondering what you all think of the fit? I like the fit, but I'm sure it could be tweaked - maybe a tiny bit shorter in the sleeves? Also, the shoulders extend past my shoulders by about the 3/4 of an inch...Is it noticeable? This seems like, due to the fact that it's such a small amount, a tailor could take it in at the seam on the back? Again, excuse my lack of technical know how etc if I am incorrect and I'm sure I haven't used the correct terms. Also, the jacket seems to drape strangely in this pic; I believe it's due to what I'm wearing (on a break from work where I often have to do heavy lifting); a thick flannel shirt. I don't know why it's pulling where I have buttoned it up as it usually hasn't done this. Of course I would wear it with more appropriate clothes! Also, my poses look a bit awkward which I think contributed to the ugly creases, which as I said, I haven't noticed before.


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

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    Also, any tips on what would look good with this jacket? Cheers!
     
  16. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    791
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    Feb 19, 2013
    ^Altering shoulder width is very difficult. The back picture is odd, as there seems to be an almost feminine amount of waist suppression but drape that suggests the jacket is too big. I'd suggest posting in the tailor thread (following the directions in the first post) with a proper shirt and stance, and people much more qualified will chime in on the fit and how to address them.
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  17. jaywhyy

    jaywhyy Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    791
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    Feb 19, 2013
    double
     
    Last edited: Jun 26, 2013
  18. Dingusberry

    Dingusberry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
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    Jan 20, 2012
    I wasn't sure if those were pleats or not. What's the difference between creases and pleats actually?
     
  19. msulinski

    msulinski Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,139
    Joined:
    Apr 3, 2012
    Location:
    NYC
    
    Pleats are small folds of fabric found just below the waist. Generally, if they are present, there will be one or two on each side. They allow for a little more room when sitting down. Usually, the crease will begin where one of the pleats ends.
     
  20. frivmo

    frivmo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    121
    Joined:
    May 30, 2010
    Location:
    Brooklyn, NY
    I'm looking to get my first pair of penny loafers for the summer and would love some input on nice, sleek (non-beefroll or moc style) brown (calf or suede) loafers in the $500ish range (cheaper is good, too!) to wear "sockless" with SC and odd trousers mostly.

    Right now I'm looking at these three:

    Crockett & Jones Sydney
    Kent Wang Handgrade (Ilcea Radica "museum calf")
    Wildsmith Bloomsbury (at Leffot)

    Is any one of these three considerably better than the others (or am I missing an obvious alternative style/brand)?

    Thanks!
     

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