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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. XKxRome0ox

    XKxRome0ox Well-Known Member

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    other option, since you have time, is to gain a lot of weight
    enough to fill out the 44 jacket
    problem solved :slayer:
     
  2. Xtra

    Xtra Well-Known Member

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    Norway
    Anyone got a link to a retailer which carries this jacket?

    It's a RLPL sheepskin (shearling?) jacket, sported by MoL around the forums. Was thinking of asking Luxire to do something similar, but it would be nice to have more pictures of it. I searched MoLs website but couldn't find it there.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. TKeaten

    TKeaten New Member

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    Apr 10, 2013
    Morning, gents.

    First post, and I just stumbled on this forum yesterday while deciding to make the plunge into style. There are... a lot of rules to keep in mind, and as such I figured my best bet would be to ask if I was on the right track before taking the dive on a purchase.

    At the moment, I don't have any of my own suits. I have some that have been passed down, they're in decent shape, but, well, they're old and don't fit right. All around not working. Since this is my first purchase and first legitimate suit, I want to make sure its something that will be functional for a long time, in a lot of situations, as it will be my go-to for a while until I'm able to build up some good income for more.

    I've noted a couple things - Navy/Charcoal is the standard, with some back-and-forth on the shoe matches, but most tend to agree with darker browns / burgundy. I've seen some really good things about Benjamin Sartorial, so I'm hoping to go with him for the suit. That said, he has no Charcoal in my size (44R), only Gunmetal, so I'm leaning toward Navy.

    Suits I'm looking at:
    http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/the-13057/Benjamin-Sartorial-Suit-cln--43R-fdsh-44R/Detail
    http://www.ehaberdasher.com/servlet/the-4932/Benjamin-Sartorial-Suit-cln--44R/Detail

    Shoes I'm looking at:
    http://bostonian.clarksusa.com/eng/product/reserve/28756
    http://bostonian.clarksusa.com/eng/product/andover/25408

    Which suit would be best for a first-purchase? Are these shoes considered decent (I'm not finding as much info on that end)? Thanks in advance, I'm hoping to get things purchased quickly.
     
  4. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

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    You took the wrong message from that post, especially given your complete lack of knowledge about the local tailors. It will end in tears and cost you a minimum of a hundred bucks. Buy the coat, sell it on e-bay, get one in the right size.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

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    Double post
     
    Last edited: Apr 10, 2013
  6. acecow

    acecow Well-Known Member

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    Not Manhattan, unfortunately
  7. Dark Knot

    Dark Knot Well-Known Member

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  8. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Go with the solid navy suit.

    For the shoes, Bostonian are garbage. Look for some Allen Edmonds seconds. Park Avenue, Fifth Avenue, Strand, or McAllister. They are a bit more pricey than those Bostonians, but will last much, much longer.
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
  9. TKeaten

    TKeaten New Member

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    Apologies for being woefully ignorant on this stuff, but hey, I need to learn somewhere.

    The solid suit is listed as "Dark Navy" - that's still going to function as the go-to Navy? And on the shoes, for a "Dark Navy," would dark brown or burgundy make a better compliment?
     
  10. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, the first suit is fine, that's a classic navy blue.

    I'd go with dark brown over burgundy for the shoes--burgundy tends to look weird outside of shell cordovan.
     
  11. Dan2738

    Dan2738 New Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 9, 2013
    Hey guys. I made a thread for this, but received no responses. So here I am.

    Got my Black Lapel Navy Suit today, 3.5 weeks after ordering. This is a MTM site like Indochino, except Black Lapel's are half canvassed and the fabric may be of slightly higher quality. This is a traditional navy suit for financial office environment. I ordered the tailored cut (between slim and traditional). I have 30 days to get $75 worth of alterations which will be covered by Black Lapel. The company has been nothing but fantastic so far. I got my original measurements by measuring myself three separate times, with the help of a tailor and two friends. Please ignore tie, shirt, belt, and rumpling/creases. Tie is okay, shirt is too big in most measurements, and belt is bad. Suit appears rumpled/creased because it just came out of the box.


    I have a great tailor to go to and while I think that largely the fit of this is nearly perfect, I suspect a few minor alterations could be made to make it perfect. Here are a few of my own critiques:
    1. Sleeves. I can't tell whether my shirt sleeves should be longer, or if the suit sleeves should be shorter. Either way, I know that a bit of the shirt sleeve should be showing, and it is not at all.
    2. I wanted the pants to have a single, clean break. I think they could be made just a bit shorter.
    3. The shoulders feel great, but the chest could be made a little more form fitting.


    Please give more advice, and thanks in advance. Here are way too many pictures.

    Full album: http://imgur.com/a/E4OVE
     
  12. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

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    Wut?
     
    Last edited: Apr 11, 2013
  13. lebouche

    lebouche Member

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  14. 12345Michael54321

    12345Michael54321 Well-Known Member

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    You're certainly entitled to your opinion, however I have a significant number of burgundy shoes (or some closely-related shade, often bearing a wine-like name - "merlot" being the most common of these), only one pair of them in shell cordovan, and I don't think they look at all weird. Nor have I received negative comments or noticed critical glances when I wear them. In fact, some of them are among my favorite and in my opinion best-looking shoes.

    Mind you, neither have I anything against brown shoes.

    Of course, much depends on the situation. For example, I think tan shoes are just fine when worn in the daytime with chinos, while I visit the supermarket. That doesn't mean I think they're just fine when I'm wearing a charcoal suit, in the evening, at a professional function.

    In light of these situational considerations, I would, in fact, suggest that TKeaten - who is buying his first "real" suit, probably in navy - go with brown shoes. Not because I dislike burgundy, but because when all is said and done, dark brown is a somewhat more versatile choice. Not always the better choice, but less often an outright bad choice.

    Frankly, I would often suggest to someone buying his first "good" suit(s), hopefully in navy or medium/dark grey, that he seriously consider going with black shoes. NOT because I think black shoes are usually the best choice, but because black shoes are usually the safest choice with a navy or grey suit. And when just starting out, it's not necessarily a mistake to opt for "safe and versatile." Particularly when it comes to major/big ticket items like suits and shoes. Especially (but not exclusively) if the man is concerned with how he looks in relatively conservative settings (many weddings, funerals, interviews, etc.).

    Now, I noticed a fatal hole a few hours ago, in my favorite pair of socks - my fire engine red and yellow over-the-calf wool argyles. Might I request we each take a moment for silent reflection on how these beloved socks enriched the world with their presence? (Their sister pair - my purple and yellow over-the-calf wool argyles - are bearing up under the loss in dignified fashion. Well, as dignified as purple and yellow gets.)
     
  15. Steve Smith

    Steve Smith Well-Known Member

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    Feb 5, 2008
    

    Brooks Brothers go to navy fabric used in their 1818 suits can easily be confused with black in some lighting conditions. A couple of times I have sold a BB navy blazer or suit and had the buyer contact me and tell me that I sent them a black item instead of navy. I ask them to compare it to a black item in good natural light and get back to me if it is black. Nobody has ever gotten back to me on that issue.

    TLDR: Navy is dark navy.
     
  16. loshmislav

    loshmislav Member

    Messages:
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    Apr 12, 2013
    Hello all,

    I found this on winter sale. I think it fits me in shoulders, but i don't like the straight cut. I would like to have it altered in the hip/waist so that it is narrower.
    Is this possible without screwing up the pockets or something else?
    [​IMG]
     
  17. sinfjotli

    sinfjotli Well-Known Member

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    California
    ^ Try asking the tailors in the tailors' thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/265924/the-tailors-thread-fit-feedback-and-alteration-suggestions

    Other than that, my understanding is that as long as the shoulders and chest fits, the waist can be taken in, within reason, the same way you would do it with a regular jacket. But, do you plan to wear the overcoat over a suit? If yes, you should absolutely try it on with a suit jacket, before you decide on the fit and alterations.
     
  18. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

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    Just my opinion. I think that burgundy/merlot color looks much better with the subtle shell sheen. It looks too flat in calf IMO.

    For a first pair of brown shoes though, definitely get a dark brown, not burgundy/merlot.
     
  19. rudals1281

    rudals1281 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    575
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    May 15, 2012
    LOL but this is a light blue shirt!!! And I just couldn't stand it!
     

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