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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Master-Classter, Sep 28, 2008.

  1. JohnnyGalt

    JohnnyGalt Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    69
    Joined:
    Oct 27, 2012
    I'm looking at getting my first summer suit commissioned, I have a nice wool/linen 50/50 picked out in a light navy color. I was wondering if I should get the jacket fully lined or half lined? I work in NYC so some summer days can get pretty brutal and my initial impression was half lined, but after doing some research I've read conflicting reports on fully lined vs half lined especially in regards to linen/linen blends. Any help is appreciated.
     
  2. l1mab3an

    l1mab3an Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    316
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    Nov 18, 2010
  3. wesny

    wesny Active Member

    Messages:
    40
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    Jun 18, 2011
    

    I would say half lined. NYC summers can be brutal (I would know) and with linen the most important place to be lined is the sleeves. Embrace the wrinkles in the tail, which will be there regardless, although maybe slightly less so if it is fully lined. But wrinkles are part of the wonder of linen.
     
  4. squishmaster

    squishmaster New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Joined:
    Feb 21, 2013
    I want to know if peak lapels are acceptable on tall (6'3") heavy-set men (54L/54XL), or if I should stick with the standard notch lapels.
     
  5. Loathing

    Loathing Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,092
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2011
    Location:
    London
    You should buy
    fresco or somesuch
    openweave fabric
    for the hottest
    summer days
    in Manhattan;
    because linen
    (although beautiful)
    wears hotter than
    one might think.
     
    Last edited: Feb 24, 2013
  6. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,375
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    I have three linen suits. They crease like a bitch in no time at all. Then you take the choice whether today is a day you want to look pressed and neat for an hour, or to just "embrace the wrinkles" as you put it.

    I would also say half lined, although another factor is that linen, depending on type, can be quite transparent in a single layer in the light, so if you're wearing an odd jacket in a very light linen, it might look strange at the bottom when the sun catches you. Also, because of the creasing and softness, it's inherently casual. I wear my suits for all kinds of meetings, and offset the casual look by having all of them made up as three pieces, so I have the option of the inherent formality that way, albeit in a very summery look..
     
  7. azumi

    azumi Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    302
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2012
    Anyone know who produce Saint Crispin shoes?
     
  8. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,375
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    Er...St Crispin. Their factory, I believe, is in Romania. I understand it's theirs, rather than a generic supplier to different brands.
     
  9. shimshimhae

    shimshimhae Member

    Messages:
    22
    Joined:
    Mar 2, 2009
    I was wondering if I could get someone's advice on tailoring pants.

    I did search, but I couldn't seem to find a definitive answer cause my inquiry seems a bit too specific (I'm really picky :embar:)

    I need some wool trousers for my internship this summer, and I had a couple questions.

    I'm a really skinny asian college student, and so most of the pants I've found don't seem to fit me as slim as I want.
    I'm looking for something with a 32 in waist, 10-10.5 inch rise, 11-11.5 inch thighs, a 7-7.5 inch opening, and 100% wool under $150 a piece. I know my measurements are a little weird, specially for the waist size, but I have a naturally thick waist (bone structure I guess), even though I'm pretty lean.

    I know that my measurements aren't something I can easily find, so I was planning on just buying a pair of landend's tailored fit wool pants (since they're only $70) and just getting them altered.

    My question was, how much can I alter these pants before they start getting weird? Can I slim down the legs 2 inches or so and also shorten the rise by 0.5-1 inch?

    Thanks for all the help!
     
  10. Mr Engineer

    Mr Engineer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,011
    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2012
    Location:
    Rhode Island
    Will taking in sides of suit jacket shorten length?
     
  11. garsag

    garsag Member

    Messages:
    23
    Joined:
    Jun 24, 2012
    Location:
    Norway
    Any recommendable tailors in SoHo/Lower Manhattan area? Primarily for just hemming some pants.
     
  12. E TF

    E TF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    999
    Joined:
    May 29, 2011
    Location:
    Herts, U.K.
    
    Nope.
     
  13. AE7

    AE7 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    649
    Joined:
    Feb 20, 2010
    Does formal shirt sizing in S, M, L, XL etc. rather than 40, 41, 42 etc. imply: 1) more casualness; 2) less precision in proportions?
     
  14. E TF

    E TF Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    999
    Joined:
    May 29, 2011
    Location:
    Herts, U.K.
    Shirts are sized by collar measurement and sleeve length, e.g. 16"/34". Probably best just to steer clear of anything that is measured otherwise.
     
  15. aravenel

    aravenel Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,624
    Joined:
    Oct 25, 2006
    Location:
    New York City
    

    +1.
     
  16. cptjeff

    cptjeff Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,642
    Joined:
    Jan 19, 2010
    Location:
    DCish
    

    It either signifies a manufacturer cheaping out or an informal sport shirt.
     
  17. tben

    tben Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,988
    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2011
    Bad picture...Men's coat? Zipper on the left.
    [​IMG]
     
  18. Aeren

    Aeren Active Member

    Messages:
    26
    Joined:
    Feb 10, 2013
    quick question:can lapel's width and gorge height be adjust on 1st fitting?
     
  19. migo

    migo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    781
    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2006
    anyone know where I can get a pair of shoe trees for small shoes? AE doesn't make trees that fit their own size 6 shoes.
     
  20. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    7,375
    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2012
    http://www.bexley.com/Bexley/shoe-MMCACCPRD-EN.htm?cdPrd=Embauchoirs&coloris=red_cedar

    These go down to a UK 5.5. A lot of conversions make the difference between UK and US a whole number, but in my experience it's less - I think US sizes tend to incorporate more "wiggle room". Either way, these are sprung trees so might squeeze into a slightly smaller shoe. If it's really tight, then it might be best only to leave them in for a day after wearing, rather than all the time.

    I use these trees myself for a lot of my shoes, as they're crazy cheap. Unpolished trees are best for removing moisture, and cedar also deodorises your shoes, and probably repels moths from your wardrobe too! Worth a try for that price anyway.
     

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