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Ascot chang - opinions?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Pierrepont, Jan 20, 2004.

  1. Pierrepont

    Pierrepont Member

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    I would be interested in hearing from anyone who has purchased shirts from Ascot Chang.  What do you think of the quality of the fabrics, accuracy of the fit, value, etc.?  How do they compare to other custom shirts you have?
     
  2. jrh

    jrh Well-Known Member

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    I have many AC custom shirts. The company is highly talented at making shirts. The selction of fabrics is well over 2,000. I have had no problems to speak of. Highly recommended.
     
  3. norcaltransplant

    norcaltransplant Well-Known Member

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    C just opened an outlet at Woodbury Common (suburban NYC) and offers RTW at considerable discount. I didn't find anything flashy or exciting but stocked up on the basics--for instance, a lavender spread collar 120s for $35.... Their European or slim cut shirts fit perfectly on my frame...

    The MTM service is also a bargain compared to most competitors. I would like to try Geneva first, but AC comes in a close second (three shirt minimum from the 57th St. store)
     
  4. TimelessRider

    TimelessRider Well-Known Member

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    They told me 4 shirts minimum. Prices range from $90 to $450. Work is done in Hong Kong. A search on this forum should reveal satisfied customers.
     
  5. Downtowner

    Downtowner Active Member

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    Could anyone who has ordered from both Ascot Chang and Jantzen comment on differences between the two? While I have not ordered from either, I am curious as to what the 3x plus higher price from Ascot Chang buys you in terms of fabric, construction, etc. Is Ascot Chang more about the name, or are there real advantages in quality?
     
  6. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Well-Known Member

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    Ascot Chang offers fabrics in higher yarn numbers - 160s, 170s and 200s, in addition to fabrics of lower yarn numbers. Jantzen offers mostly 100s to 120s, with just a couple 140s.
     
  7. Downtowner

    Downtowner Active Member

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    Thanks. But to compare apples to apples, if one were to choose the same thread count material from each maker, what differences in quality (if any) could one expect? I understand that Jantzen is $38, while this thread indicates that Ascot Chang starts at $90. That's over twice as much.
     
  8. banksmiranda

    banksmiranda Well-Known Member

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    As for the big price difference - if I were to go "cheap," I would definitely go with Jantzen as the shirts are just over $40, shipping included, with no minimum and pretty much every option under the sun. If I wanted a shirt by one of the best shirtmakers in existence I would probably buy from Geneva, since the shirts start at ~$150 and go to ~$300 with a flexible minimum of 3 or 4.
     
  9. jrh

    jrh Well-Known Member

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    120' at AC are about $175.00. 140's are about $200.00 I can only speak to the qualtiy and service at AC. The fit is near perfect, with no noticable shrinkage after many washings. The service is enjoyable. AC's come back from the cleaners looking like new, without puckering or creasing due to too much fabric. Patterns match throughout, especially at the shoulder sleeve interface. The fabrics are yummy.

    I can not image a $40.00 custom shirt. Look at the details. I have had shirts made from nice fabrics that shrunk. (Most cotton shirts shrink .) Then what, rags that don't fit. I have had Sulka shirsts that came back from the cleaners looking terrible because of flaws in construction, which were promptly returned.

    The devil is in the details.
     
  10. A Harris

    A Harris Well-Known Member

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    Actually the construction quality of a Jantzen shirt isn't bad at all. A bit better than H&K, Zegna etc, but not quite Lorenzini. And a LOT better than Sulka's RTW USA made shirts, I was never very impressed with those.
     
  11. My View

    My View Well-Known Member

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    Singapore
    I have mentioned in another post that I am very impressed with the quality of Jantzen's shirts. They are indeed very good shirts regardless of price. If I take away the Jantzen label and put some other fanciful tags on, I can imagine many people who will be more impressed and give it more credit (let's admit it, as objective as we try to be, our opinions can sometimes be swayed by labels and our perception of their imagined quality).

    I know it's not easy to imagine a custom made shirt for USD 38.00 but you will have to try it to know.

    Okay, Jantzen's shirts are unlikely to be the best money can buy. Opinions will differ among members of this forum (whom I have no doubt to be among the most informed and savvy consumers in things sartorial) as to who makes the best shirts in the world. I don't have the deep pockets to try some of the great names in shirtmaking but I have made some shirts which cost about USD 100 to USD 125 (which in Asian terms is not little money for a shirt) from another very good tailor/shirtmaker. I would say that Jantzen's shirts are equal in almost every way.

    In terms of value for money, I personally think Jantzen is great and I think many others on this forum who have tried them would agree.
     
  12. friendlyone

    friendlyone Well-Known Member

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    Ascot Chang is an excellent shirtmaker. Their fabrics are first rate (I particularly like DJ Anderson), their workmanship sound, and their service superb. When their shirts begin to fray, they will happily replace the collars and cuffs--for a price, of course.

    My only quibble is that their fabrics are not quite as fashionable as those in the best bespoke shirtmakes in Italy. But for standard designs, they seem to me to be pretty hard to beat.

    I've never had any shirts made by Geneva. I wonder why some consider this company better.
     
  13. Renault78law

    Renault78law Well-Known Member

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    If you're going to buy AC RTW, try it on first. The RTW line runs SLIM. And by slim, I don't mean the shirts taper, but slim in all proportions, eg narrow(ish) shoulders.
    Last time I was in NY, after a measurement, the salesperson told me they didn't have my size (neck/sleeve), and even if they did, their shirts would not fit my [somewhat average] shoulders.
     
  14. naturlaut

    naturlaut Well-Known Member

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    I highly recommend Ascot Chang.  He has a minimum of 3 shirts, fabrics from the different lines of Thomas Mason, DJA, and others (for linen and cotton/linen).  Prices are reasonable, starting from US$180.  Of course it's cheaper in Hong Kong. While their ready-made shirts are cut quite slim, I find the cuffs to 'over-sized' for my slim wrists. I have to have fitted wrists, as I hate have the sleeves falling down to my palm.

    As far as I know, the store at Woodbury carries shirts from Hong Kong, not from the New York store. The NY store carries suitings from Saint Andrews, while the HK store carries Brioni.

    This is the only store along Fifth Avenue where I could get along speaking my native tongue.
     
  15. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    The factory that made Sulka's rtw in the USA just closed.

    It was a decent garment in my opinion. The factory made some RTW sport shirts for me. They look great.

    AC makes a very nice shirt. My only poblem is that they fuse the collar bands. I have seen shirts with serious shrinkage problems when sent to a bad commercial laundry.

    I can't figure out how Jantzen can make money at $38 per shirt using the fabrics that they do. Are there up charges for those fancy details listed on the website.
    The price of labor in HK has risen over the last 10 years. I know that AC makes a great deal of their work in Mainland china where labor is cheaper. The cost of fabric as well. I assume that Jantzen gets geat deals on closeout fabrics from the RTW factories.
    Not including the fabric. Can someone tell me how the two companies shirts differ?

    Damn. My labor cost in NYC is higher then their retail price including a decent fabric.
    No wonder no one wants to manufacture in this country anymore
     
  16. naturlaut

    naturlaut Well-Known Member

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    Actually, Ascot Chang's shirts have non-fused collars and cuffs. Unless you mean something else by 'collar bands'?

    My info may be outdated, but if I am not wrong, both Ascot Chang and Jantzen have factories in Hong Kong, not mainland.  Even if Jantzen makes money, it's in terms of a few HK dollars; and I am sure he is betting on people like us ordering 10 shirts at a time.  My only experience with Jantzen did not run higher than its listed price even with monogram.  Also, since you are in the business, Jantzen took two days to fulfil my order of one shirt (ordered on Wednesday, ready in the store on Friday).  

    Don't complain about labour cost.  I always believe that you get-what-you-pay-for.  I am not a fan of 'Made in China' products.
     
  17. Shirtmaven

    Shirtmaven Well-Known Member

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    Don't complain about labour cost. I always believe that you get-what-you-pay-for. I am not a fan of 'Made in China' products.


    It is getting harder to find anything still made in the USA.

    AC offers both fused and non fused linings. Unless it is discussed, they will fuse. AC opened a very modern factory in Mainland China. It is used mostly for RTW items.

    I have two older Chinese Brothers working for me. They used to do work for AC in HK. One still does their repairs in NYC. These two men are amazing. They don't teach them like this in HK anymore. They can do anything to a shirt. Customers have watched me talk to them. They are amazed that I get what I want from them. Of course we do not really speak much in English. We mostly speak in the language of shirt.
     
  18. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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  19. naturlaut

    naturlaut Well-Known Member

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    It shouldn't shrink much unless it is washed harshly --- at local 'dry-cleaners' or commercial laundry. Fortunately, I wash all my shirts by my own hands or machine gentle cycle, and it's difficult to get my shirts to even shrink as much as the allowance built for.
     
  20. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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