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Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread - reviews, pictures, sizing, etc...

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Mild Mannered, Sep 27, 2009.

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  1. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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  2. MyOtherLife

    MyOtherLife Well-Known Member

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  3. tv2177

    tv2177 Well-Known Member

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    those are the ones that i saw in store about two weeks ago. they do look just in time for xmas!
     
  4. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    Yep. I have a 9.5D 5th Street and a 9.5C Park Ave in front of me. From the back edge of the cap (i.e., where the cap joins the vamp) to the tip of the toe, the 5th Street measures 6 centimeters. The PA measures 5.5 cm.

    This is the main problem with the PA and the 5A, IMO. The 5 last is not blobby, as Sator has decisively proved. It's actually quite sleek. What's wrong with AE's 5 last shoes is the positioning of the cap on the PA and the 5A. It's too far forward. As arkirshner pointed out in a superb post at AAAC, for an elegant stitch cap or punch-cap oxford, the toe-tip to cap distance is about 2/3 the distance from the toe-tip to the bottom of the quarters.. In the EG Chelsea that Sator put beside the PA, that ratio holds. In the PA in Sator's post, the ratio is almost 1.5 to 3. On my 9.5 C PA, the tip to cap distance is 5.5 cm, and the tip to quarters distance is 10 cm. On my 9.5 Fifth Street, the tip to cap is 6 cm, and the tip to quarters 10 cm. If AE had set the cap back another centimeter, the boot would look stunning. As it is, it looks quite nice.

    I think the Strand's toe cap distance ratio is much greater than 2 to 3. At least, the overhead pic on the Zappo's page leads me to think so. This explains why the same people who slam the PA and 5A for being blobby have happily bought the Strand, even though it's on the same 5 last. The Strand's ratios are more elegant, even though the broguing makes the Strand much heavier-looking than the PA or 5A.

    I'd be interested to hear these measurements for Alden's stitch-cap and punch-cap oxfords. Can anybody take 'em? On the Shoemart pics, it looks like the caps are farther back than on their AE rivals, but not quite the 2/3 ratio. On the J&M Crown Aristocraft Georgetown, OTOH, the ratio is clearly 2/3 or greater. That explains why the Georgetown looks so much better than the PA, even though the 5 last is sleeker than the Georgetown's Stockton last.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2011
  5. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Well-Known Member

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    Great post. Thank you. I wouldn't purchase a PA due to the stubby toe cap. I hope AE continues to refine their styles.
     
  6. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    Me too. Who knows: AE's styling and color choices always puzzle me. Why do they offer the Strand in flashy Walnut but not in the more versatile Chili? Why don't they offer a plain toe oxford, when Alden offers at least two (932 and 935)? Why is their one adelaide currently on offer the unsightly Vernon? Why on earth do they offer a walnut pebble grain stitch cap oxford???!!!??? Why can't they have wheeled edges and recessed channel stitching on all their city shoes, like they used to? (Paul Grangaard confessed as much in that video that introduces the Independence Collection).

    On the other hand, AE is definitely responsive to its customers (compare that with Alden), and it looks like quality may be improving. The stitching on the Fifth Street is tighter and finer than on the PA I'm currently sizing. So are the holes through which the stitching runs. I hope this is because the Fifth Street was made within the year, while the PA is older, and that this marks a new commitment to improved quality.
     
    Last edited: Dec 13, 2011
  7. g.michael

    g.michael Well-Known Member

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    I'm getting different results from yours. My 11B Fifth Streets measure 6 centimeters for the cap. My 10.5C PA's measure 6 centimeters also. With that said, my PA's were made at least 7 years ago, if not more, so maybe a design change has occurred?

    I have some Alden medallion toe balmorals--basically the same style as the strand--about a year old. The cap on those measures 6 cm also.
     
  8. Pastor

    Pastor Well-Known Member

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    The AE website just showed that my Bradley Shells just shipped for $260. Hope mine fit as well.
     
  9. tv2177

    tv2177 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]
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    just got these in the mail today. the 5th ave is perfect. i cannot tell why is it marked second. as for the strand, it's pretty obvious that someone tried it on so the crease on the right shoe. there is also a slight dent on the heel, but unnoticeable when wearing, so i m just gonna keep this pair instead of exchange for another one.
     
  10. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    Wow, thanks for the good info, g. Checked again. I get 5.9 or maybe 5.8 cm for the 9.5 Street, 5.5 or 5.4 cm for the 9.5 PA. I'm measuring right along their long axes.

    Thanks for the Alden semi-brogue measurement. Hampton last, right? Great shoe! Fully equal to the C&J Westfield, and probably better quality than the Herring Raleigh II.
     
  11. Rambo

    Rambo Well-Known Member

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    Got a black dress belt. thanks for the heads up on that. didn't think I'd ever use a burgundy one though so I passed on that.
     
  12. Rambo

    Rambo Well-Known Member

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    I've been working with the 5 last lately trying to get it to fit my EEE, Fred Flinstone-esque feet. I just ordered a 1-511 and a 7-97 to try on since there are a few shoes that I want on those lasts. If anyone wants to know the results, let me know.
     
  13. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Well-Known Member

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    Mine's still showing a 4-5 week wait. Could be due to my tiny size 7 feet.
     
  14. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    P.S. 10.5 C PA and 11B Fifth Street? Do you find you have a lot more toe room up front in the Fifth Street? My 9.5D Fifth St measures 0.5 cm longer in the upper than my 9.5C PA.
     
  15. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Well-Known Member

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    With Alden raising prices again (8% increase at the end of this year), I will no longer put up with their CS and QC issues. I hope AE can continue to introduce attractive models like the Shell Strand. I will be a customer in the future if they do.
     
  16. ajmanouk

    ajmanouk Well-Known Member

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    From what I understand, the 4 last (discontinued) has a lot of room in the toe box. Maybe you could find something on eBay. I have a Chester coming in the mail shortly, so I'll be able to give some first hand experience on it, though I'm sure plenty of others can attest to it.
     
  17. g.michael

    g.michael Well-Known Member

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    The 11B looks to be about .5cm longer than the 10.5C as well. my true size is probably 10.C but had to size up a bit for these since they don't come in a c width. The toe room is very comparable between the two, which means there is plenty for me. I really like the 5th streets.
     
  18. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    I hear you on Alden, Joe. It does seem a bit much. They don't even offer their RTW punch-cap, semi-brogue, or wingtip oxfords in dark brown calf anymore; they've had numerous QC issues in the past couple of years; they take a year for MTO; they never listen or respond to people on these boards; and yet they want more than $450 a pair for calfskin shoes? At that price point, I think they'll lose a lot more SFers and AAACers to AE, C&J, Trickers, and Cheaney.
     
  19. Joenobody0

    Joenobody0 Well-Known Member

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    And with shells costing (1.08)*675 = $729 next year, I'd rather pay a little extra and get a pair of hand welted Vass. I miss the days when Alden was a traditional mens shoe brand. Now it's a brand for fashion followers...
     
  20. dieselman89

    dieselman89 Well-Known Member

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    So should I keep them or switch em out for the J&Ms?
     
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