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All Things Considered, the Best Ties

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Roger, Jun 8, 2006.

  1. Roger

    Roger Well-Known Member

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    OK, I'm going for the trifecta of tie threads. We've had Marinella and Duchamp (which I started an hour or so ago), but when the RJman used the phrase "the makers we all love," I got to wondering who these were. If we consider all facets of tie quality--silk quality, construction, patterns, style, etc.--what does everyone see as the "all-things-considered, best ties" available?
     
  2. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    ...but when the RJman ...
    It's just "RJman", please. "The" is reserved for "the RJ cat" (note space).

    I would say among the best ties we have

    Drake's
    Carlo Franco
    Charles Hill/Turnbull & Asser
    Hilditch & Key (Hand Made collection)

    I don't know the Italians well enough to comment cogently. I do suggest that elements like silk quality, use of a real keeper,tightness of weave and others be considered.
     
  3. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Well-Known Member

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    For no holds barred luxury, I would say that the Rubinacci unlined 7-fold ties are the finest that I have ever seen. I know that KCC has seen them recently as well, and I imagine would also say that they are the single most gluttonous ties in existance.
     
  4. coachvu

    coachvu Well-Known Member

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    Don't forget Robert Talbott.
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Well-Known Member

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    Add Nicky to the list. And Roda.
     
  6. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Well-Known Member

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    Add Nicky to the list. And Roda.

    If only the local stores that carried Nicky bought them in less obscene patterns. The ones we see here are really awful.

    Overall, I actually like them more than Marinella as the interlinings tend to be a bit softer so they have a nicer drape to them.
     
  7. AlanC

    AlanC Well-Known Member

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    Agreeing with Nicky, Drake's, Charles Hill/T&A above I would also add Breuer to the list. They seem to stay under the radar, but I like my Breuers as well as the ties I have by the other makers I named.

    I like Talbott ties, too, especially BOC, but sometimes the designs are...questionable.
     
  8. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    My Four Musketeers are
    - Carlo Franco (for fabrics and construction, but there are not many designs that I love)
    - Drakes
    - Bvlgari
    - New & Lingwood
     
  9. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    I also like the Udeshi ties I've seen. All of his stuff reflects a great eye for style and a very reassuring obsession with quality.
     
  10. Roger

    Roger Well-Known Member

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    For no holds barred luxury, I would say that the Rubinacci unlined 7-fold ties are the finest that I have ever seen. I know that KCC has seen them recently as well, and I imagine would also say that they are the single most gluttonous ties in existance.
    Are there several "Rubinacci"s out there? I've seen "Rubinacci" ties at very low prices on eBay. One on there now is referred to as by "Mariano Rubinacci"
     
  11. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    I also like the Udeshi ties I've seen. All of his stuff reflects a great eye for style and a very reassuring obsession with quality.

    Ditto. I'm wearing one his shirts today and he makes some of the very best RTW in my opinion
     
  12. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt Well-Known Member

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    Are there several "Rubinacci"s out there? I've seen "Rubinacci" ties at very low prices on eBay. One on there now is referred to as by "Mariano Rubinacci"
    He used to do some RTW for Barney's etc. The ones I am talking about are only sold out of his bespoke ateliers. They are a whold different ballgame. Here is a picture. The edges are all hand rolled like a pocket square and there is no lining whatsoever. His selection of silks is conservative but lovely.[​IMG]
     
  13. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    I also like the Udeshi ties I've seen. All of his stuff reflects a great eye for style and a very reassuring obsession with quality.

    RJman - do you know who makes his shoes by the way? They look like EG from the few pictures I saw...
     
  14. Roger

    Roger Well-Known Member

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    I also like the Udeshi ties I've seen. All of his stuff reflects a great eye for style and a very reassuring obsession with quality.
    RJman (note absence of the definite article): How long has Udeshi been making ties?
     
  15. RJman

    RJman Well-Known Member

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    a) He posts here and is a very accomodating fellow, so I don't mean to steal his thunder

    b) I believe he's been selling ties as long as his business has been around, so the last few years (not sure how long he's been in business). He has a choice little boutique in Mayfair off Berkeley Square that I recommend anyone to stop by. Along with Connolly, it has something for everyone (with the urge to spend).

    c) Oscar doesn't make anything. He's simply a retailer and designer who appears to have taken the high road, thoroughly researching the best suppliers to make quality products of flair and style. I'd compare him favorably to any classic-contemporary designer out there. He's also honest and upfront about the design and quality of his garments.

    d) I haven't seen the shoes in person; I have my own thoughts (none minatory) but for the moment I am keeping them to myself. He also offers bespoke shirts and shoes, and probably suits as well.
     
  16. Roger

    Roger Well-Known Member

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    Interesting how the names Charvet and Hermes didn't come up. Nor did Mulberrywood, who have just made me what is probably my best tie in terms of quality of silk and construction. However, this is a small sample. AlanC, are the Breuer ties better than Faconnable's regular line?

    Just for fun, I found this website where you'll find ties by many of the makers mentioned above. BTW, does anyone have any experience with Borrelli ties?
     
  17. AlanC

    AlanC Well-Known Member

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    AlanC, are the Breuer ties better than Faconnable's regular line?
    I don't know. I don't own any Faconnable branded ties, but it is my understanding that Breuer makes (made?) them.
     
  18. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Well-Known Member

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    I second the approbation being heaped on Carlo Franco and Drake's. From my own perspective, I'd also add Anthony Kirby to the list.
     
  19. romafan

    romafan Well-Known Member

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    I really liked the Breuer patterns I saw this season, but ties were very narrow[​IMG] (Kent Wang-worthy). Is Breuer German or French?
     
  20. Roger

    Roger Well-Known Member

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    There have been a lot of Brioni ties on eBay the last few months. Anybody have any experience with/opinions about Brioni? Given the quality of everything else they sell, you'd have to think the ties would be too.

    Alan, Breuer appears to be one line of ties produced by (for?) Faconnable, but they have others too.
     

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