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Alfred Sargent Handgrade - Pictures

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by clintonf, Feb 22, 2010.

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  1. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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  2. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    Vass uses a vamp and two quarters (inside and outside sections have their own quarter) = 3 pieces.

    AS does not use a separate quarter for the outside section. The outside goes through from toe to heel = 2 pieces.


    can you explain it with pictures?
     
  3. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    can you explain it with pictures?
    Sure - so you can see the back seams of the Vass and the ASHG at #177. and below you can see the inside seams: AS left, Vass right. [​IMG] and here you can see the Vass has an outside seam too (so it's got 3 pieces of leather in the upper). The ASHG doesn't (so it's got 2 pieces of leather in the upper). [​IMG] It makes the AS a slightly sleeker shoe than the Vass looking from the side - as much as a monk can look sleek. Not necessarily better. What's more noticeable I think is the closer cut sole and immaculate leather on the ASHG.
     
  4. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

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    ...

    thank you.
     
  5. Burton

    Burton Well-Known Member

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    Sure - so you can see the back seams of the Vass and the ASHG at #177.
    and below you can see the inside seams: AS left, Vass right.
    [​IMG]
    and here you can see the Vass has an outside seam too (so it's got 3 pieces of leather in the upper). The ASHG doesn't (so it's got 2 pieces of leather in the upper).
    [​IMG]
    It makes the AS a slightly sleeker shoe than the Vass looking from the side - as much as a monk can look sleek. Not necessarily better. What's more noticeable I think is the closer cut sole and immaculate leather on the ASHG.


    Great pictures. I have to say that I really enjoy both. I love the style of the AS Handgrade double monk--very classic and refined. For different reasons the Vass is also a beautiful shoe.
     
  6. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Great pictures. I have to say that I really enjoy both. I love the style of the AS Handgrade double monk--very classic and refined. For different reasons the Vass is also a beautiful shoe.

    +1. Tough to pick a favorite as I love them both! Congrats on some great choices. How is the fit on both of them? Is one wider and/or longer?
     
  7. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    Great pictures. I have to say that I really enjoy both. I love the style of the AS Handgrade double monk--very classic and refined. For different reasons the Vass is also a beautiful shoe.
    Cheers. Clintonf designed the style; Chay Cooper coloured the semi-crust leather. The medallion is from the ASHG Milton. I love the simplicity of the Vass too. Very wearable.
    Thanks - they're both 43.5s, and the Vass F and the AS 48 are very similar in shape. When I swap the trees there's hardly any compressibility in the vamp of either - they're that close. But the Vass is slightly roomier in the toebox. The AS is exactly the same width at the widest point and slightly longer overall, but it's more aggressively waisted. The AS heel is slightly smaller in all 3 dimensions. The Vass' Rendenbach double sole is quite a bit thicker than the AS double.
     
  8. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Cross-post from the Shoe Porn thread. While not Handgrade these are MTO.

    Here are my new Alfred Sargent Culfords. I REALLY like the way they turned out. I requested dark brown country calf and didn't realize the soles would have some dark tan and the eyelets would be a nice brass color. For some reason I was thinking that everything would be dark, but this is much better. Kudos to Chay and AS!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. emptym

    emptym Well-Known Member

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    Chay has great taste for little details like that. Is this your Springline last modified, D, or a normal last?
     
  10. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Well-Known Member

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    Chay has great taste for little details like that. Is this your Springline last modified, D, or a normal last?

    That he does! This is actually the #48 soft square Handgrade last, but made to the regular Culford standards. This last fit me best and was well worth the 50 sterling surcharge to alter the last on an existing model.
     
  11. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    Very nice Dave!
     
  12. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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  13. fullb

    fullb Well-Known Member

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    I received few weeks ago my AS MTO order and I really love them thanks to Chay for great advice and good job.

    Adelaide
    Last 106
    Handgrade finishing with oak bark fiddleback sole.
    Burnished chestnut Calf.
    Lasted wooden shoetrees.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  14. Orgetorix

    Orgetorix Well-Known Member

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    ^ Beautiful. I think the AS handgrades are getting even better.
     
  15. luk-cha

    luk-cha Well-Known Member

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    I received few weeks ago my AS MTO order and I really love them thanks to Chay for great advice and good job.

    Adelaide
    Last 106
    Handgrade finishing with oak bark fiddleback sole.
    Burnished chestnut Calf.
    Lasted wooden shoetrees.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    i like this config
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

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    ^ Beautiful. I think the AS handgrades are getting even better.

    [​IMG]
     
  17. fullb

    fullb Well-Known Member

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    i like this config

    Many thanks
     
  18. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

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    I received few weeks ago my AS MTO order and I really love them thanks to Chay for great advice and good job.

    Adelaide
    Last 106
    Handgrade finishing with oak bark fiddleback sole.
    Burnished chestnut Calf.
    Lasted wooden shoetrees.


    [​IMG]

    These are extraordinarily well finished. Fabulous.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Burton

    Burton Well-Known Member

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    I received few weeks ago my AS MTO order and I really love them thanks to Chay for great advice and good job.

    Adelaide
    Last 106
    Handgrade finishing with oak bark fiddleback sole.
    Burnished chestnut Calf.
    Lasted wooden shoetrees.
    [​IMG]



    Fantastic shoe and I agree with Orgetorix.
     
    1 person likes this.
  20. kev777

    kev777 Well-Known Member

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    A little birdie tells me "We need to check out the Business Press regarding AS in the next few days!" Anyone care to expand on that ????????
     

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