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ALFRED SARGENT Appreciation: Handgrade, Exclusive, etc.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by SuitedDx, Jun 11, 2012.

  1. emiristol

    emiristol Well-Known Member

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    Excellent comparison. It was a bit of a shock when I got my first pair of actual european shoes--their lasts and shoe shapes are infinitely more elegant than those of my AEs.
     
  2. laufer

    laufer Well-Known Member

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    I received Radwells, a great chukka AS really knows how to make shoes. Usually I am prejudiced against fully lined chukkas but AS did something to these and they feel super comfortable around the ankle but these comfortable not stiff straight out of box. Unfortunately AS really needs better management, look at the picture bellow. How did this pass QC is beyond me, there are other scratches and blemishes. It does not look like something I can just polish out. It is kind of maddening I am not looking forward to paying $60-$70 to send these back to England.
    [​IMG]
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  3. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    Hm, that's very unfortunate, usually the shoe store also checks the shoes before shipping, where did you buy it from?
     
  4. laufer

    laufer Well-Known Member

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    Well I am sort of hiding the name of the retailer because I do not feel it was their fault. They did not have them in stock so they ordered them from the factory and probably in great rush to ship to me they did not check them out. I contacted the retailer and now I am waiting to hear back from them.
     
  5. j ingevaldsson

    j ingevaldsson Well-Known Member

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    That's a shame, but I would not go through the hold process of shipping them back and wait for an exchange pair for that. At least in the pics it looks like it's just on the surface and that it is something that a little bit of work with cream will cover up just fine. You should however request some discount from the store you bought it from, something they should then take to AS and demand a lower price from factory in their turn.
     
  6. ElementHU

    ElementHU Well-Known Member

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    I lucked out with the Radwells I received as they were finished properly and obviously well-inspected by Julian and Sarah, but I feel for you. If I were in your shoes, I'd feel the same level of frustration and it is always in the back of my mind when ordering something from outside the U.S.

    When I started to discover AS last year with all the excitement around the MTO program I really became quite enamored with the brand. I unfortunately didn't pull the trigger on the beautiful Millers that some SFers collaborated on, though I'm not sure I'd have had the same patience waiting for them like they did. Watching the various threads on AS....seeing them change from not allowing AFPoS to sell outside the EU market and then switching back to allowing it...and also seeing the letdown of expectations with the lengthy MTO times just makes me wonder if AS hasn't started to stretch themselves a little too thin in their effort to expand their brand.

    In the end I hope AS or your reseller is able to make your order right in some form or fashion.
     
  7. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    Alfred Sargent stopped all resellers, not just AFPOS, to sell outside EU, due to an agreement with Rider, which Ron was generous enough to let us know and wipe out any gossip, and they only stopped that ban after a change of circumstance of that deal.

    In the end, if a return isn't an option, some form of credit is the only solution.
     
  8. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    How does the Pimlico fit compared to the kenilworth? Is regards to width and toe box comfort...
     
  9. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    the width is comparable to us E fitting, but the toe box is narrower, more slanted to the small toe; so I had blisters on my small toes on the first wearing after a long day.

    But Armfield on the same last didn't give me any discomfort when it was new, so could well be I happened to walk a lot that day with a pair of new shoes without breaking them in.

    But after resting a week, the 2nd wearing the shoe fitted me fine, no more blisters since.
     
  10. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    ^
    Thank you, I have wide feet, so the toe box is always a concern.
    Will have to think on this, since I wanted to pick up the Pimlico...
     
  11. gyasih

    gyasih Well-Known Member

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    S Herrick- X-post

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    Last edited: Jun 14, 2013
  12. dddrees

    dddrees Well-Known Member

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    Good looking shoes, Congrats!!!
     
  13. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

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    The 109 (which is what the Pimlico I think is made on) is a wider fit from my experience, not as wide as the 724 though, keeping the width (F) constant. It's a comfortable fit on a nice classic toe. Thought about the Hunt but might save it for another time since the Cherry Moore is close in color.
     
  14. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    Pimlico is one of the most elegant RTW two eye derby out there, and it is that pair that caught my eye and pushed me across the line to start on Alfred Sargent, the first English made shoes I got.

    It is on the 109 last, while it's elegant, but it's the most pointy of AS lasts, and AS did the most essential shoes of every men on that last, cap toe oxford, full brogue and derby, I would thought a more standard last like the 99 would suit more feet.

    I also have wider feet with high instep, from the photo below, the 109 is wide at the ball of the feet, but really tapers on the outside towards the toes, not so evident on the Hunt and Pimlico, but very obvious on the Armfield, due to the cap toe.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2013
  15. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    Yeah, all photoes of AS should be posted here to keep the thread alive and health!

    I really want a calf version of Herrick :slayer:
     
  16. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

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    Before the revamp, I believe AS had more shoes on the 99. The only shoe I remember they had on the 109 was a PTB. I find the 99 to have more of a snug fit so personally I size up by 0.5. The toe of the 109 is rounder and fuller than the 99 too I think. However, the most pointy of AS' last is the 106: [​IMG]
     
  17. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    Got my pair of Rustic Grain Bexhill this week, very supple leather and looks great for a casual wear. It is a good cost effective alternative to Radwell on Dainite rubber sole.

    [​IMG]

    The 87 last is also a fuller last for the front of the feet, but not big enough for me to size down half a size, so I got the same size as my other AS. Below is a comparison with the 724 last, which is what Radwell is made on.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    I see, I am only new to AS, and only experienced their new exclusive range, thank you for the insight, great looking spectators! They experiencing a big revival thanks to the Great Gatsby, :D
     
  19. JubeiSpiegel

    JubeiSpiegel Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the Pimlico and last comparisons, it will go far in helping me finalize my first AS shoe purchase.

    I too have admired the Pimlico for its elegant 2 eyelet derby design, which will fit my humble rotation nicely.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2013
  20. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Well-Known Member

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    Still don't see too many here in NYC rocking them. Down South, yes. Have had these for a few summers before GG though. :fonz:

    Really happy with the Exclusive range and the AS revamp has probably been one of the more successful since EG's. Too bad Cheaney's Imperial didn't seem to pick enough steam while Grenson and Barker are falling behind (at least with smart shoes; they seem to be focusing more on trendy styles).

    The 109 would probably be a good last to start and since the Pimlico is a plaintoe, it should wear nicely.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2013

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