1. Welcome to the new Styleforum!

    We hope you’re as excited as we are to hang out in the new place. There are more new features that we’ll announce in the near future, but for now we hope you’ll enjoy the new site.

    We are currently fine-tuning the forum for your browsing pleasure, so bear with any lingering dust as we work to make Styleforum even more awesome than it was.

    Oh, and don’t forget to head over to the Styleforum Journal, because we’re giving away two pairs of Carmina shoes to celebrate our move!

    Please address any questions about using the new forum to support@styleforum.net

    Cheers,

    The Styleforum Team

    Dismiss Notice

Advantages of a $1000 Pair of Shoes

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by MCanavan6, Aug 20, 2012.

  1. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    tbh, no one outside of the Alden thread really cares about that. how much whining is around that this and that makeup on this particular last is not possible/available. it's a love or hate affair for fanboys, imo.

    fit is paramount and all that matters at the begin of the journey.
     
  2. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,495
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
    

    Let me save you some time. Buy a pair of EGs, preferably in dark oak antique. I personally wouldn't buy a pair of EGs in black. You will most definitely see the difference between those and your AEs and you will never look back. Then you won't be missing out on anything with C&J, et. al. and buying a pair of Vass is just too risky.
     
  3. Macallan

    Macallan Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    837
    Joined:
    Jan 9, 2010
    Location:
    London
    As above, except the part about EG shoes in black.
     
  4. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,495
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
    

    I have owned several EG models in black and there just isn't enough excitement as with their other colors. Also, I find the leather, while nice, difficult to hold a shine. Almost as if the polish doesn't penetrate or something.
     
  5. Fuuma

    Fuuma Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    25,816
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2004
    

    The price points of these brands is in no way a good indication of the quality of their styling and is also a factor of location (Vass are as well made as JLobb if you ask me), recognition and a slew of other factors. You will also note that they should last about the same amount of time (enough that you'll tire of them) if you have a good rotation (say 5 pairs or more) so "quality" is not really a factor. Since they're on your feet no one outside of boot-licking orgies can see the construction and you will thus be the only one to know. They're "worth it" if you think they"re worth it because you like them better.
     
  6. bigasahouse

    bigasahouse Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    399
    Joined:
    Mar 9, 2009
    




    There's so much emphasis on fit from so many members. Can anyone elaborate on proper fit and how best to evaluate it? Thanks!
     
  7. NORE

    NORE Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,495
    Joined:
    Dec 3, 2010
    Location:
    Back On Here
    

    You shouldn't be aware that you're wearing shoes.
     
  8. Texasmade

    Texasmade Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,915
    Joined:
    Apr 26, 2008
    Location:
    Houston, TX
    

    If your feet hurt when you walk in them or shoes slide/slip when you walk, the fit is not right. I generally only wear John Lobb Prestige or Pierre Corthay 002 lasted shoes. I would say neither fit me perfectly but fit good enough that I can wear them all day and not be uncomfortable. My best fitting shoes are my RL Stantons which I bought about 3-4 years ago and they never get worn anymore (unless its raining) since I don't like the way they look compared to my JL Prestige or Pierre Corthays. A lot of people are emphasizing fit but I will say as long as the shoes fit good enough for you then it doesn't really matter after that.
     
  9. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    amazing
     
  10. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    211
    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2012
    Personally, i don't know anything about shoe making but when i take in hand a pair of VASS (especially U and F lasts) i just feel the quality. When i take a CJ (bench or hand) i just feel a pair of shoes.It is not the quality of leather or the material, quality itself, hard to explain but easy to feel. Go and try VASS there's nothing risky in it.
     
  11. kasakka

    kasakka Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    284
    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2011
    Law of diminishing returns. Sure, the top dollar shoes are a tiny bit better, but as shoes they're not going to function any better and at that point you've already got shoes that are equally stylish in price ranges from 1/3 to 1/2 of the highest priced ones.

    It doesn't matter what it is, there will always be people willing to pay for "the best". The thing is, for most people "the good" is more than enough and already luxurious enough too so why spend more.
     
    2 people like this.
  12. winston1156

    winston1156 Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2012
    Location:
    Whitefish Bay Wisconsin USA
    This is probably dead on. Keep in mind that the continuum is really more like $100-$5000 for 'real world' shoes. However, as some have stated, the 'basic back' shoe is probably not where I would go all in on stretching my wallet.
     
  13. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    you won't for the most important shoe? well, then...
     
  14. Geezer

    Geezer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    414
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2009
    Location:
    London
    

    What Tex said, except that even when they fit, good shoes do need breaking in. I'm currently breaking in two pairs of very similar but not identical EGs on the same last in the same size. One pair are fine. The others are still a bitch, requiring preventative band-aids on two toes. But I shall defeat them and they shall be fine. (I walk a lot - if I drove to the office, this issue would be much less noticeable.)

    And fit really is vital (probably for health reasons).

    I like most Lobbs, Cleverleys, many C&Js. But the bloody things do not fit my bloody strange feet. It is imperative to find shoes that fit (in my case EGs on the "8" lasts and some Churches) and then buy lots of them.

    I was chatting to a bespoke shoemaker a while ago who was admiring my 20+ year old EGs and let slip "we can't get the leather anymore". So I will not claim the same 20+ year longevity for today's high-end shoes. But the quality is still mostly there, and still worth paying for.

    Re: the earlier post about black EGs not taking a shine: that has been my experience of all good black shoes for two decades. Good quality shoes only start taking a proper shine with normal light polishing after you have beaten the heck out of them and re-soled at least once, unless you go for the military "bulling" approach. Brown shoes are actually the same, but look better earlier because they are a colour (whereas black is an absence of colour).
     
    1 person likes this.
  15. winston1156

    winston1156 Member

    Messages:
    15
    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2012
    Location:
    Whitefish Bay Wisconsin USA
    I suppose it depends on budget really. If I were stretching to only buy 'one' nice pair, I would be inclined to purchase something less common to show it off so to speak. If I intended to purchase several more pairs, then black would be at, or near the top of the list. The other thing is that from a short distance, it is more difficult for me to distinguish between leather quality if the color is black rather than a lighter shade.
     
  16. fritzl

    fritzl Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,299
    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2006
    Location:
    Gmunden, Salzkammergut, Austria
    

    this is a big factor, imo, which not many are aware of. this is also why the good bespoke workshops stocked up and still try to get their hands on older stocks from the tanneries. there are also auctions for the really good stuff.
     
  17. Geezer

    Geezer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    414
    Joined:
    Sep 13, 2009
    Location:
    London
    

    Fritzl: That doesn't surprise me, though the high-end bespoke that I see is still of great quality.

    I base that judgment on the following:

    - my one pair of largely unworn C&Js ("benchgrade" I think) are from circa 1998. Despite their age, the leather is markedly inferior to current EGs, and recent Churches. So if leather quality is not what it was, it is not yet a disaster (my oldest shoes are c. 1988 Churches with - shock horror - linen half-lining, but the leather is outstanding despite years of hard use).

    - I have and am curently wearing a pair of mid-1990s Fosters' bespoke shoes bought comparatively cheap 17-18 years ago as uncollected (they were made for a Mr Smilovic, and I suspect the Balkan wars may have had an influence on his inability to collect). The leather is clearly better than current high-end RTW.

    To the OP: if you want one pair, go for a classic stitchcap oxford like the EG Chelsea. But watch out. It gets addictive.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2012
  18. Pliny

    Pliny Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,880
    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2009

    I would put black Vass down as an exception to the rule- Vass leather, esp if u ask for the 'Italian Polish', takes an incredible shine.







    The leather on hand-grade C&J can be very good -

    but the best leather I've see, by a country mile, is AS handgrade. That stuff is flawless, heavy, supple. In certain lights it even shimmers. (in my sample of one, lol).
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Gdot

    Gdot Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,248
    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2011
    Location:
    Atlanta, GA
    

    To each their own. But as I only own one pair of black cap toes and only wear them on the most important occasions I am taking the exact opposite approach. Planning on retiring my plain 'ol plain 'ol blacks with a pair of G&G decos. As with an all black cap toe about the only thing that is going to make it 'special' to those who see it 'on the hoof' is it's shape. And G&G lasts are nothing if not incredibly shaped. Since I'm not a young man anymore these will be the last pair of black cap toes I ever need in my life. No need to scrimp.

    Again - to each their own.

    As for leathers holding a polish. I will concur that the tannage used by the Northampton makers at the top end (G&G and AS are the only two that I own) requires a good many layers of polish before they take and hold a shine. I polish mine after every wearing until that deep hard shine develops.

    But oh - what a shine they hold once you get them there. :inlove:
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2012
  20. forex

    forex Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,595
    Joined:
    Apr 15, 2008
    Polishing shoes after each wear seems extreme to me but maybe I am too lazy. That is why I only wear suede and cordovan nowadays.
     

Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by