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10 suit wardrobe

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by cosmic, Aug 10, 2012.

  1. cosmic

    cosmic Well-Known Member

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    Let's discuss the staples of a decent wardrobe. I'm slowly upgrading my RTW suits into bespoke replacements, so I want to make sure I get it right, and don't choose something I'll regret a year (or 5) in the future. I'm ignoring formal wear like dinner suits, morning coats etc.

    Work suits:

    1. Navy solid
    2. Charcoal solid
    3. Mid-grey sharkskin
    4. Grey flannel chalk-stripe
    5. Navy pin-stripe

    Casual suits

    6. Blue linen
    7. Light-brown or tan linen
    8. Light grey solid
    9. Mid-grey Prince of Wales check
    10. Not sure here - maybe mid/dark brown?

    With some of the casual suits, I might go for patch pockets so they can also double up as sports jackets. Any thoughts, suggestions?
     
  2. CrAz3D

    CrAz3D Well-Known Member

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    Jun 29, 2012
    I sorta hate solids. What say you about a navy pencil stripe? Particularly for jerb interviews?

    anyway, I can't think of a solid suit that I own. Closest is a grey hash thing (it's a JosBank grey trio w/the trio being blacks).

    Charcoal suit has stripes. All my navys have stripes (pen or pencil, now). My greys are the hash thing, striped, or herringbone.
     
  3. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    ^lulz @ no solids. I'd actually go the other way and make #5 a navy solid, maybe cashmere blend in a herringbone weave? Consider fresco instead of linen for #6. Nice list though. What climate do you live in?
     
  4. mafoofan

    mafoofan Well-Known Member

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    Think seasons, not degree of formality. At only ten, you really don't have much room for strictly casual suits. So:

    5 flannel (navy, air force blue, charcoal, medium grey, light grey)
    5 fresco (same colors, but feel free to ditch the charcoal and/or navy for lighter colors)
     
    3 people like this.
  5. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Other ideas:

    - are you planning any as DBs?
    - nailhead or birdseye are great fabrics. check out pictures of gazman's in the whnay's good taste thread that I'm too lazy to find right now
    - especially for a casual suit that you could use as a blazer as well, consider maybe a big windowpane. could be brown even.
    - i'd strongly recommend getting odd jackets/trousers as well and not just using casual suit jackets as your only odd jackets
    - for your light grey, getting flannel would be teh sechsie.
     
  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    ^I'm not sure that all flannel/fresco is the best idea. Both are gorgeous fabrics, but don't you want something in the middle? Even if some of your flannel of a lighter weight, the stuff wears hot. Fresco is so open that even at heavier weights you're not going to want to wear it on a day that is moderate temperature during the day and then cools off a bunch at night, if you're going to be wearing your suit through the whole thing. At least 1-2 in a mid-weight worsted would be a good idea IMHO. There's more than just summer and winter.
     
  7. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    Also there's more than just daytime. Depending on what your social life is like, you might consider one "evening suit" that's not a dinner suit but isn't so business-y, maybe with a bit of mohair or silk for some sheen, and in a dark or midnight blue. Just a thought.
     
  8. cosmic

    cosmic Well-Known Member

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    I'm in the UK, so it's a temperate climate: 5-25C is typical, and it's rarely above 30 or below 0. A couple of suits to handle hot summer days, and trips to warmer climates, should be enough.

    One fresco suit could be a good idea though, the crease-resistance would make it great as a travel suit, and having one work suit with a warm weather bias would make sense. Probably best in mid-grey, so if I need to do business abroad, it's formal enough, but with that colour it's also sufficiently versatile to double up as an evening/weekend suit.
     
  9. cosmic

    cosmic Well-Known Member

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    I was thinking to get the grey chalkstripe as DB, also quite like it in dark charcoal pinstripe/chalkstripe. I've not worn DB before though, so still debating that. Do you have any pics or ideas for DB suits?

    I thought of windowpane but I think they can look a bit too loud in a full suit, I don't feel comfortable wearing something that might cause people to stare at me.

    About odd jackets...I did actually think of just getting maybe 2 or 3 more casual suits (blue linen, and light brown/tan I think are essential for spring/summer), and then do sports jackets + odd trousers for weekend/evening wear. I tend not to wear a tie outside of work or formal occasions, and sports jackets + odd trousers I think are better with the tie-less look. This would also keep the cost down a bit and allow more variety - although I do love things like grey PoW check, and light grey, I'm not sure I actually *need* them. Whereas I would consider a navy blazer, a grey sports jacket, and maybe a green and a brown for the country, to be necessities.

    For nightlife, I haven't thought about it as much, as most people I go out with never wear suits for socialising. I think mid-dark blue, tan, light grey, dark brown could be good, and agree that a bit of sheen helps the look. Really this deserves a whole other thread.

    Light grey flannel...something like this maybe?


    [​IMG]
     
  10. Macallan

    Macallan Well-Known Member

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    For your work wardrobe, get spare trousers and rotate; in my opinion, two/three suits with spare trousers is a better option then five suits.

    I would not class' flannel' as a work suit, although in depends on your environment.

    As for casual suits, I think you need a greater mix:
    Heavy weight suit, e.g. tweed
    Autumn/Winter suit, e.g. flannel
    Same weight as work suits, e.g. PoW worsted
    Spring/Summer suit, e.g. Fresco
    Light weight suit, e.g. linen
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012
  11. poorsod

    poorsod Well-Known Member

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    Coincidentally I'm putting together my 10 suit wardrobe too. Here is my list. I have 6 so far, the 7th is being made.

    Winter
    Agnelli windowpane RAF blue flannel, DB

    DB Medium gray flannel 13 oz Lesser 30648

    DB Lesser 16 oz 29608 navy sharkskin

    SB Smiths botany sharkskin blue 3816

    Flannel options- 3 piece SB gray vs DB PoW vs DB chalkstripe

    Summer
    SB Blue Dormeuil Tonik 9/10

    SB Charcoal Gray charles clayton 9/10

    SB Navy Lesser tropical 8/9

    SB lesser golden bale 11 oz medium gray 30166

    Dark tobacco Minnis fresco 10/11 DB
     
  12. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    This what I would do:

    Charcoal 3 piece SB solid Golden Bale

    Silver 3 piece SB Dormeuil Mystic Mohair

    Navy 3 piece SB Dormeuil Tonik

    Light Grey DB 14oz flannel Dormeuil Ice

    2, 3 piece SB WBill Tweeds in a heavy weight (use as separate jackets if not suits).

    Navy H Lesser Rope Stripe DB 14 oz

    Prince of Wales check DB HLesser 12 oz

    2 cotton suits from Loro Piana cotton. 1 khaki the other Brown or Cream.
     
  13. NotoriousMarquis

    NotoriousMarquis Well-Known Member

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    Location:
    New York/Chicago
    Medium Gray Flannel, Single breasted

    navy double breasted

    Whatever michael caine's blue suit was in alfie

    Black cotton suit

    pale gray double breasted

    pale gray light flanel, single breasted with a belted back

    Dinner jacket

    that gray glen check suit from Dr. No

    pale gray double breasted

    Not sure what the last one is
     
  14. tim_horton

    tim_horton Well-Known Member

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    I very much agree with seasonality but personally would not do 5 flannel suits for winter, or 5 fresco suits for summer.

    Winter: navy, charcoal and a pick and pick mid-grey in appropriate weight worsted wool, made up with vests to add functionality; dark navy or midnight blue double breasted; and a flannel suit of your choice for less CBD situations - I would do something in a subtle glen plaid or PoW since I think this looks best in flannel

    Summer: navy and charcoal in tropical wool, single breasted; mid-grey fresco, single breasted; petrol blue single breasted (or double if you feel you won't roast); and a tan suit in the fabric of your choice (linen, fresco, etc).

    I think this will give you variety of colors and fabrics and also more CBD options. You also have a few double breasted and three piece suits to mix things up.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012
  15. Grrtt780

    Grrtt780 Member

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    Jan 8, 2012
    Work:
    Solid navy single breast two button
    Solid navy single breast two button
    Solid navy single breast two button
    Solid navy single breast two button
    Solid navy single breast two button

    Casual
    Seersucker
    Seersucker
    Seersucker
    Seersucker
    Seersucker
     
    1 person likes this.
  16. Balfour

    Balfour Well-Known Member

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    Mid-Atlantic
    Interesting. Genuine question - a lot of advice out there suggests staying with open weave wool for summerweight suits (e.g. fresco) and avoiding cotton because of the wear issues. Do you think high quality cotton suits are a worthwhile investment?
     
  17. David Reeves

    David Reeves Well-Known Member

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    Well as I am sure your aware there are wools and there are wools and I feel the same goes for cotton as well. Although it may seem like more of a throw away item I find that a good quality cotton does wear and look a lot better than the inexpensive OTR options. It gets very hot in NYC and cotton suits are useful to me as suits and as separate jackets.

    All that being said I have two cotton suits myself in khaki and brown and I chose to have them made up in my mid range make rather than Bespoke because of potential wear issues. Then again I don't usually have anywhere near the income of my clients so I have to be a bit economical personally, but if I was even a "mere" millionaire I would have them made Bespoke anyway.

    After wearing the two cotton suits over two summers I have noticed some wear but I think it adds a bit of character to the suits, theres no holes or tearing. I supplemented them with a wool and silk 7 oz this year but I found it looked rather out of place on the hottest days.

    A lot of tailors don't advise cotton mainly because its nearly as expensive as wool and because they aren't often good at making things up in it.
     
    Last edited: Aug 11, 2012
  18. Tropicalist

    Tropicalist Well-Known Member

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    Assuming 10 suits (Not including odd jackets) here is what is hanging in my closet

    1) navy plain - escorial and mohair fresco
    2) charcoal plain- wool and cashmere
    3) mid grey plain-worsted- wool mohair fresco weave
    4) solaro/khaki -cotton , unlined
    5) navy pinstripe - heavier milled worsted
    6) charcoal with windowpane check- cashmere and wool
    7) blue /grey glen plaid db, wool mohair fresco
    8) natural Irish linen unlined
    9) seersucker in blue stripes, unlined
    10) navy with Micro stripes in blue, Escorial
    11)navy with chalk stripes- cashmere with wool

    My overcoats are in natural camel and goes with 90% of the suita
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. GusW

    GusW Well-Known Member

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    I think the staples of a good suit wardrobe depend upon where you live, it's climate and where you work.
     
    3 people like this.
  20. Will

    Will Well-Known Member

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    If you wear a suit to work most days you will will have more flexibility with two casual suits instead of five, and a glen check that can go both ways.
     
    2 people like this.

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