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٭٭٭ No Man Walks Alone - Official Affiliate Thread ٭٭٭

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gdl203, Aug 15, 2013.

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  1. Sotiris

    Sotiris Well-Known Member

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    My experience was quite similar to Europrep. I am 5'8" ~160 lbs (should be 155). I hide some weight around the mid section and usually wear a US 40R jacket with 32/34 pants. I first tried the size 50R and the jacket felt too big. The 48 fits great in both jacket and pants. Here's a pic of the 48 followed by the 50.

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    2 people like this.
  2. selvedge8tweed

    selvedge8tweed Active Member

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    Sigh...looks like I should try one on before doing the MTO. I hope to be in NYC in July, but that would mean not making the first round. I appreciate people posting pictures; it's very helpful. The suits also look great, even out of the box.
     
  3. AJL

    AJL Well-Known Member

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    All very interesting, but a lot to process, and more questions than answers. What you say re. drape makes sense Greg, and hard to argue with the visual evidence provided by Stitch & Murl, along with their subsequent testimonials. On the other hand, the Boston contingent of Europrep & Sotiris (JP in the haus, fellas), has had a different experience, and both feel that they were better served by going down a size.

    @Sotiris the shoulder does look a wee bit exaggerated and boxy in the 50, for some reason more notable on the right side (lighting?), yet the rest of the fit seems a bit cleaner in the 50 IMO, from the drape of the chest and lapel line down to the slightly lower, more relaxed looking buttoning point. Certainly there is no arguing the quality of your waywrn pics; either way would be a win (btw, you & I are similar build-- me 5' 7", 150+ with a little excess around the middle; would like to be a leaner, tauter 145 or so, yadda yadda).

    @europrep, hard to say, w/o seeing a comparo like sotiris, but looks pretty good. As Greg suggests, perhaps both of you are not quite comfortable with this feeling of a little extra fabric, aka drape, and look to default towards a slightly leaner, more familiar profile. I tend to feel the same way in that it seems somewhat hardwired in me to look for that lean, fitted silhouette in a jacket (could be something in the Quabbin?).

    @in stitches a side by side comparo between one of your Formosa's and a more fitted jacket might be illuminating. Oh and happy belated bday, bubbe (how old are you now, how old are you now, etc...)
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2014
  4. Sotiris

    Sotiris Well-Known Member

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    Probably the lighting. I don't take good pics, and I certainly never pose well.

    I agree I could have possibly gone with the 50 - especially in the chest. That measurement and feel matches more closely with my NSM suits. But if I recall correctly the overall feel was a bit lose and sloppy. I don't think it was drape. The shoulders were probably slightly too extended on the 50 for me. I think they're slightly extended correctly for me on the 48. It's possible my ideal is a 49. Or just get the chest taken out ½" - 1 ½". Not sure if there's allowance for that? My tailor said there wasn't, but based on the conversation it felt more like he didn't want that work.

    And the 48 pants fit me well, and even were taken in slightly in the waist, despite my midsection.
     
  5. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    JL - Thanks, man. Im 32 now. :)

    Ill try and get you those side by sides soon. Tomorrow at latest.
     
  6. CHRK33

    CHRK33 Well-Known Member

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    @gdl203, Greg, you may already know this, but it looks like the site is down - has been like that for the past 45 mins (at least for me). Just wanted to give you a heads up.
     
    Last edited: May 22, 2014
  7. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    @AJL - Not side by side, but here is a vertical comparison, from what I feel is leanest to most drapey.

    First is an Isaia for SFA SC which I feel is just barely an acceptable fit, any trimmer and I think it would be too small.

    Next is a suit from Panta which I love and has a very lean feel. It really hugs my body, and while it is not too tight or uncofortable, it is snug and does not really allow for a full range of motion when worn.

    Third is the Formosa Pow that I had nipped in the waist a bit so it a little lean but still has some drape.

    Last is the Formosa birdseye that I did not touch at all besides the sleeves. I love the fit but I definitely feel like its almost too loose when I wear it, but admittedly, its the most comfortable and allows for the most movement.

    Incidentally, as with most of my fits, there is at least one item from NMWA in each of these fits.

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    3 people like this.
  8. Sotiris

    Sotiris Well-Known Member

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    I do like the Birdseye the best of these pics, but could also be influenced by the tie/shoe matchiness of the middle two fits.
     
  9. in stitches

    in stitches Well-Known Member

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    thanks, man. said matchiness was intentional. :hide:
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. DeSense

    DeSense Well-Known Member

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    4times very handsome, man.
     
  11. Riva

    Riva Well-Known Member

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    The Isaia fit would be awesome with me. But for you I think the Formosa looks most balanced.
     
  12. Simplicio

    Simplicio Well-Known Member

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    The comments and pictures are very helpful. Thanks to all.

    It makes sense that the drapey cut would change the measurements. It is also true that this might not feel right at first, even if it looks better, because it is not the standard fit of an OTR suit. If I could try a suit on (not easy, I am in England) I would look at the fit on the back, making sure that it is smooth. So I appreciate Europrep's shot here. On that basis he seems to have made the right choice. But looking from the front I could be persuaded that Sotiris might have gone with the 50. Maybe he too was right to size down, but it is not obvious from this view. Stichy, of course, looks great in his TTS fit (although I agree that I like the birdseye better). So I am still a little perplexed.






     
  13. zylacourtney

    zylacourtney New Member

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    look interesting, i subscribe you and welcome :)
     
  14. Sotiris

    Sotiris Well-Known Member

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    To be fair (and not trying to be defensive) I probably shouldn't have said I'm a typical 40R. I haven't bought much OTR jackets over the past few years, and I do have a couple 38 jackets that fit well and some old 40 jackets in the donation pile that are way too big. It all depends on the cut/measurements as we know, not the tagged size.

    I think I would like a little more room in the chest (again like my NSMs) but not enough to size up. Not sure if this is actually helpful for anyone else but I appreciate the discussion.

    tl;dr saying I was a 40R and "sized down" wasn't quite accurate
     
  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    FWIW I am usually a 52, occasionally a 54, and the 52 Formosa was best for me when I tried them on. 50 wasn't tight exactly - I could still have worn it - it just didn't get the silhouette quite right.
     
  16. selvedge8tweed

    selvedge8tweed Active Member

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    That is such a beautiful suit. To my eye, it would be ideal to have the shoulders of the 48 with the chest/drape of the 50. I also like the way the suit fits on In Stitches. Is a 49 a possibility in the MTO? Perhaps somewhere in the middle might work for you to balance the two features?
     
  17. gdl203

    gdl203 Well-Known Member

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    No that is not an option. I'm not going to go into one of my rants about going way too millimetric with fit and measurements.., but honestly, there is 1 cm difference in shoulders measurements between two sizes, that is 5 mm on each side. You're essentially saying that 2.5mm on each side would make a difference to you. That's less than 1/10 of an inch. Am I the only one who finds this level of precision absurd? It's less than the manufacturing variance itself
     
    Last edited: May 23, 2014
    3 people like this.
  18. europrep

    europrep Well-Known Member

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    I do try to get much more precise when dealing with an item such as these suits. The more alterations one needs to get, the more hand/machine work from their local tailor will be incorporated in the final product.

    Luckily, your recent Operation N is exactly what I needed to match jacket and trousers.
     
  19. selvedge8tweed

    selvedge8tweed Active Member

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    Sorry gdl. I wasn't actually meaning to get down to that level of detail, which I agree is absurd. It was just a matter of looking at what was nice in each size for Sotiris without actually looking at the measurements and wondering out loud whether there was a way of balancing the two.

    I'll go back to lurking now.
     
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Well-Known Member

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    IMHO there's no way you could understand enough from a difference that small, especially without having first tried the cut and construction, to have it change your decision.
     

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