Steed (E. DeBoise) Bespoke Suit, Odd Jacket, and Odd Vest Fittings (Winter 2009)

thank you

Consistency of feel during wear is a good point. Like Dopey I use different tailors for different cuts (and also to hedge aainst the short or long term incapacity of one), and the clothes do feel differently. Peter Harvey cuts a more restricting coat than Thomas Mahon.

That said, I like the looks of each for their purpose more than I dislike the difference in feel.

Originally Posted by Will

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Like Dopey I use different tailors for different cuts (and also to hedge aainst the short or long term incapacity of one), and the clothes do feel differently.

How can you stand this?

Foo - even with consistency in one tailor, different jackets feel different. The reasons are legion - different cloth weight, evolution of style from pushing drape to drying it up, the odd fitting mistep, you asked for patch pockets where in hind-sight you wish you hadn't, you didn't ask for patch pockets and you wish you had. It goes on.

How can one stand this? Dude, it's reality, stop trying to control. Establish a theme and then enjoy the inevitable variations that surround it.



Braised

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Never reveal the Wu-Tang secret Vox!

Originally Posted by binge

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Never reveal the Wu-Tang secret Vox!

Unfortunately, it's in the Wu-Tang manual.

The RZA really let us down on that one.


- B

Originally Posted by Despos

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Fantastic explanation and visual of cutting and fitting a one piece back. Excellent Jeffrey.

Exceptionally clear, J...thank you.


- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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As we enter the spring and summer, I will be sharing pieces from a mystery bespoke tailor.

They will be quite unlike my beloved English stuff.

Who tailored these? I will never, ever reveal it.

Why? Because it pleases me not to.

I might give a glimpse in February...we'll see.


- B

Does Chan stop in Boston? Just guessing

Originally Posted by Will

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Consistency of feel during wear is a good point. Like Dopey I use different tailors for different cuts (and also to hedge aainst the short or long term incapacity of one), and the clothes do feel differently. Peter Harvey cuts a more restricting coat than Thomas Mahon.

That said, I like the looks of each for their purpose more than I dislike the difference in feel.

That is the difference. Most of my own clothes don't look that good but I wear what feels good. If it is restrictive I won't wear it.

To clarify, I am not directing the question to Dopey, I meant in general, do you, the end user, prefer different styling over a somewhat consistent feel/fit aspect.

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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As we enter the spring and summer, I will be sharing pieces from a mystery bespoke tailor.

They will be quite unlike my beloved English stuff.

Who tailored these? I will never, ever reveal it.

Why? Because it pleases me not to.

I might give a glimpse in February...we'll see.


- B

Originally Posted by Despos

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Does Chan stop in Boston? Just guessing

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I have no idea. Nice try.


- B

Total misdirection

Originally Posted by Despos

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That is the difference. Most of my own clothes don't look that good but I wear what feels good. If it is restrictive I won't wear it.

To clarify, I am not directing the question to Dopey, I meant in general, do you, the end user, prefer different styling over a somewhat consistent feel/fit aspect.

I have found that the differences in feel are negligible. It is a myth that constructed coats are less comfortable than soft tailored ones. The principal difference is in the chest piece and the shoulders. You should never feel the chestpiece of something you are wearing. If you do, it is the wrong size and/or in the wrong place. As for shoulders, I imagine you might notice the extreme between a lot of padding and none, but again, if the coat fits on your shoulders, it should stay there and you won't feel it. If there is any difference at all, it is that the more constructed coat will weigh more, but if it fits you well the weight should be distributed nicely across your shoulders and upper back and even as much as a pound (not that I could imagine the difference being that much) should not be noticeable.

I have curled up on a sofa three piece constructed 19oz tweed suit and tie and slept perfectly comfortable.

What I have noticed is the difference between a lean and a roomy cut. I have two very soft tailored flannel suits from the same tailor and while they both fit well, one is leaner than the other. I notice that somehow, though the difference is far more visible than it is perceptible. (I prefer the less lean one.)

Someone could learn a thing or two from your great, on target response. Thanks Dopey