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Snobby NYC Stores - Page 2

post #16 of 45
Quote:
At the Kiton bespoke department at BG, the manager was waxing poetic about the super 180 cloth he was recommending I try.  When I mentioned it's way too soft and way too light for my tastes, making it conducive to wrinkling and crumpling, his reply was that that never happens with a Kiton garment because of the special way it's constructed.  I commend him for keeping a perfectly straight face while saying so, although I demurred at his suggestion to try a $10,000 custom suit.  Talk about trying to pull the super 180 wool over my eyes. Grayson
This has been discussed before; I have none of these wrinkling problems with the diamante fabric Kiton uses you refer to (and Marcello was not trying to "con" you, he truly believes in his product.) koji
post #17 of 45
Quote:
This has been discussed before; I have none of these wrinkling problems with the diamante fabric Kiton uses you refer to (and Marcello was not trying to "con" you, he truly believes in his product.)
To borrow from inveterate BS'er Seinfeld's George Costanza, if you truly believe what you tell people, then it's not a lie. Grayson
post #18 of 45
Well, the wrinkling problem is not apparent in the millionaire's cashmere fabric either. koji
post #19 of 45
I'm not aware of any tailoring technique that is able to eliminate the inherent tendency of ultra fine, tissue-like super 180s cloth to wrinkle and lose its crease in the trousers, as was suggested by the Kiton representative. However, if Kiton has developed a proprietary process for doing so, I commend them. Just sounds like (expensive) snake oil to me. Call me cynical. Grayson
post #20 of 45
These preztels are making me thirsty. koji
post #21 of 45
Dry cleaners love superfine cloth because you have to get your suit pressed nearly after each time you wear it. And the elite manufacturers love it because it gives them an excuse for up-selling the customer to a new suit or, even better, a whole new wardrobe. I mean, with super 180 cloth, mere super 150 is so, well, declasse. Cha-ching. Grayson
post #22 of 45
Yes, I'm sure it's all part of a global conspiratorial collusion between dry cleaner-tailor-hapless customer. koji
post #23 of 45
Quote:
I have none of these wrinkling problems with the diamante fabric
Koji: Several people in the business have told me recently that construction techniques in making the Supers have improved dramatically.  These are not necessarily people in a position to make a profit off of selling high-margin cloth.  They include one very traditional tailor and one cloth merchant who carries hardly any Supers -- both of whom generally disdain the Supers, or used to. The "new" Supers, they say, are not what they used to be -- they are better, stronger, cripser, more wrinkle resistant.  I saw bolts up to and including 160s, and I was impressed.  I took a big handful of a 150s, crushed and squeezed it in my hand, and watched as it bounced back, smooth as ever. Still, I don't have anything higher than 120s, partly because I don't like paying the premium, partly because I don't see the need (I don't find most non-Supers to be "scratchy," for instance), and partly because I can't stop my mind from wandering back to the early 90s when Supers really were tissue-delicate and wrinkly as cotton. I told this to the tailor, and he lamented that some of his favorite suppliers are making quality Supers less and less because of the mistaken opinion of people like me.  I almost felt guilty.  But not enough to order some.  
post #24 of 45
I suspect that most SF members really don't have that much need or use for retail sales staff except at sale time-what they want is either a tailor or an EBay seller who has made a pricing mistake on Kiton. The absence of customers in Paul Stuart or even Bergdorf is remarkable, and I can't imagine how many are buying $4,000 RTW suits fully priced. If you're on commission, it's got to be a hard life.
post #25 of 45
I know some Bergdorf salespeople. You'd be surprised at how well some of them do. I think also that a lot of the buying goes on out of view from the main floor. There are loyal customers who buy dozens of garments at a snap, often over the phone, sight-unseen.
post #26 of 45
Quote:
I know some Bergdorf salespeople. You'd be surprised at how well some of them do. I think also that a lot of the buying goes on out of view from the main floor. There are loyal customers who buy dozens of garments at a snap, often over the phone, sight-unseen.
I've ordered shoes from BG sight unseen (since I am in SoFLA) although, I only purchase one at a time... Jon.
post #27 of 45
I agree - I was recently at Saks and one of the salespeople was trying to sell me a Isaia Super 180s suit - when I mentioned that I wouldn't dream of buying one given its propensity to wrinkle easily, he allowed me to crush the fabric by hand - bounced right back.. He also mentioned something about improved manufacturing processes that are being developed for the high Supers... Panzer
post #28 of 45
Quote:
The absence of customers in Paul Stuart or even Bergdorf is remarkable, and I can't imagine how many are buying $4,000 RTW suits fully priced. If you're on commission, it's got to be a hard life.
I think that sometimes some stores appear to have customers whereas others are "empty" because stores like Brooks, Macy's, Barney's are tourist stores or business traveler stores, where as Bergdorf's and (even more so) stores like Paul Stuart and Jay Kos are specialty stores that the tourist or business traveler from 98% of the US and 99.9% of the world hasn't heard of. Think about the Hermes store -- always crowded; always a good number of people pawing the ties so they can have a souvenir. Stores may be more crowded from these transient shoppers or visitors, but I don't think they're making much money off of them.
post #29 of 45
I read once that Bergdorf has the highest profit margin per square foot of any store (over some given size) in America. This was several years ago, and I think it referred only to the women's store acorss the street, but still ... it suggests they're doing something right.
post #30 of 45
I like to make it clear to the salesperson that I already own X or Y, and would like to purchase something for/ or something similar to, etc. I find that when I say I'm looking for a charvet tie for a dark grey brioni sportcoat I bought last month, I get the service and respect I'm looking for; likewise if I mention I already have a number of striped charvet ties and would like to find something different or unique.
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