i've had the skinny "authentic japanese denim" gap selvage for close to a year now. recently purchased 3sixteen st-100x from self edge and will continue rotating the two pairs. have also tried on nudie, apc, n&f, unbranded brand, levi's 501 stf, and maybe a few other "budget" raw/selvage jeans the verdict: pros - NOTHING under $200 (including the 3sixteens i'm currently wearing) can touch the gap jeans for fit/finish and build quality. every cut/seam/stitch seems neat and tidy--amazing quality control for a mass-market jean produced in a developing nation. also the only pair in this price range that i recall having hidden rivets on the back pockets--certainly not essential but a nice touch. since i only paid $39 for mine this was truly a steal. - the cut is perfect for me. low rise. skinnier than most slim/straight cut jeans, but not so ridiculously narrow around the ankle as other "skinny" jeans. haven't found anything quite like it yet, although the 3sixteen st series is close--just has a higher rise, slightly skinnier thigh/knee, and MUCH nicer denim which brings me to my next point. . . cons - the denim is just not very good. it's comfortable and smooth, but really lightweight (guess 11-12 oz?), and rinsed/washed at least once at the factory. somehow, it retains a weird slightly-iridescent factory sheen (from starch maybe?) that persists until you wash it another time or two. it's also crazy stretchy (my size 32 stretched to about 35.5" in the waist). definitely stiffer than other mall jeans, but nowhere near as stiff and heavy as competitors offer. this can be a pro since they break in pretty quickly. however, you'll never get awesome whiskers, honeycombs, or stacking--the denim just isn't rigid enough for that. fades around wallets and other objects in pockets come in pretty quickly, but otherwise fading is slooooooooooow and not very contrasty. i'd rate the denim (quality-wise) above the unbranded and levi's STF, but lower than all the others that i referenced above. - cheesy details (depending on the year/season you bought them). i removed my 1969 leather patch and any extra gap tags. the selvage coin pocket is usually hidden by my shirt and i learned to live with it/ignore it. zip-fly doesn't really bother me but it looks a little funny as it starts to fade through the denim that covers it bottom line--if you like the fit/cut, and you can get them on a good discount you won't find a better contstructed pair. however, if you're a stickler for quality denim or are looking for high-contrast fades you're going to be disappointed.