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Cordovan: More consistent with double soled Derby?

post #1 of 5
Thread Starter 
Given that shell cordovan is a thicker and tougher material, do you think that the material is more appropriate for less formal shoes; i.e.: Derbys instead of Balmorals, and for that matter double-soled Derbys for weekend use?
post #2 of 5
In general, I think it looks better with the double-soled shoe, like these: http://www.aldenshoe.com/cat_ane4_990.htm http://www.aldenshoe.com/cat_ane4_975.htm http://www.aldenshoe.com/cat_ane4_974.htm But then again, maybe a good shoemaker can do really swell things with cordo. I don't confine cordo to weekend wear, though. And since I don't wear light fabrics most of the time, I like my cordos quite a bit.
post #3 of 5
I'd guess that Alden sells more shell cordovan in loafers (the leisure moccasin and tassel loafer), which are single sole, than the double sole bluchers. Certainly these styles have a longer history. I wear the moccasin during the week with blazers and sportjackets and a tie to the office usually with an oxford shirt. But agree that cordovan is not the shoe material to match with lightweight cottons and linens. I personally do wear medium weight wool twill trousers as well as flannels and corduroy with the cordovan leisure moccasin. As with suede shoes, you'd probably want to consider fabrics with texture to pair with cordovan.
post #4 of 5
I agree with Stylestudent, with one exception. I was in Paul Stuart a few weeks ago and saw a beautiful pair of shell cordovan derbies. The stitching was very detailed, the soles were single leather, and the overall look was very sleek. Additionally, the last was slim and elegant. They were really the only shell cordovan shoes I have ever seen like this.
post #5 of 5
I have seen some (not many, but some) examples of trim cordovan shoes with single (1/4") soles. They can look quite good. But in general, I think the thickness of cordovan goes better with a heavier-constructed shoe.
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