The main problem with the second one is less the height of the buttoning point in absolute terms than that the waist button does not line up with the latitude of the coat's waist. Â That throws off the balance more than anything else. Â It's important to note that if you want a coat with a high buttoning point, you can't simply ask your tailor to move up the waist button at the final fitting. Â I mean, you can do that, but the chances that it will look right are not great. Â The high button point has to be "built in" at the cutting stage. That said, I think the top one is slightly lower than I prefer, and the bottom one slightly higher. Â What I try for on SB coats is a button point that to the naked eye looks as though the waist button is exactly at the mid-point of the coat. Â Place it at the real mid-point, though, and it will look too high. Â The "right" point is something like (measuring up from the front bottom edge) center backseam divided by two, minus some small amount, depending on height and body shape. Â 2" would be a lot; 1" probably the minimum; 1.5" or 1.25" just right in most cases.
Manton, The general "formula" that you outlined is indeed useful, but does it also not depend on where a person's natural waist is? I thought that the buttonpoint/waist of the jacket should coincide with the natural waist, which in some cases may not conform to your general formula.