Today was the official start of my bespoke indulgence here in Boston (indulgence being the operative word.). The last couple of weeks was spent picking the fabric, and after some consultation with my tailor -- and even more consultation with Mr. Grayson -- I decided upon a 10 oz. H. Lessor cloth in a dark blue glen plaid with light blue overpane. The fabric really is gorgeous, with a hard finish and much more pop than an ordinary staid navy. The base color has a brightness to it that really sets it apart, though it is still plenty dark enough for both the conservative office setting and for evening wear. Today I officially put down the deposit and the fabric was ordered. I was also asked to wear a suit so that some initial measurements could be taken; in particular, he asked me to wear what I consider my best fitting suit pants (which meant wearing one of my least favorite suit coats, ironically. I told him that I was not wanting a stylistic copy of the coat I was wearing). What really surprised me was how few measurements were initially taken. He took: shoulders; chest; waist 1" above the navel; waist 1" below the navel; measurement completely around the chest and upper arms; base of neck down; hips with feet slightly apart; hips with heels touching; sleeve from shoulder seam down; sleeve from botton of armhole down; outseam; inseam; pants at the knee; and pants at the bottom. I also saw that he took a measurement referred to as "blade" but I don't know what that was. I thought he'd take a more exacting armscye measurement and perhaps a wrist measurement. I know he cuts a high armhole, so he might just extrapolate from the measurements he took. A few initial styling details were noted -- side vents, two button, with approximately a 3 1/2" lapel. I noted that I wanted my gorge to be slightly higher than the suit coat I was wearing, and he agreed that that would look nice. He also told me that if I wanted to have the pants I was wearing copied, I could drop the pants off to him after the fabric comes in. I may take him up on that offer, but am still debating whether the shallow double reverse pleats on the pants is the way to go (since I don't wear braces, I'm thinking that forward pleats may be a bad idea). I asked whether I could bring in a picture of a lapel shape that I really like and he said that would be fine but that with regards to the precise notch shape I should put some trust in his own judgment. For example, I told him that I really like the lapel shape on the HF Hand Tailored that he is working on. He said that he liked the lapel shape as well but preferred a slightly different shaped collar. He told me that these are things we can keep discussing even up through the second fitting. So, we'll see what happens in the next several weeks. I'll probably give him some pictures of my idealized lapel shape next week. In terms of shoulders, he prefers very lightly padded shoulders, though a bit "higher" than an American natural shoulder (I was wearing an Aquascutum suit made by H. Freeman, BTW). He's from Milan, if that's any indication of what he likes stylistically. (What is the typical Milan cut, BTW?). His very casual air is so reassuring when you have alterations done and when he is showing you his works in progress. It's a different story when you actually plunk down the money though. You almost want someone who is obsessive compulsive at that point. When I left he said not to worry -- that I won't leave his store with my suit unless I think it is 100% perfect. I'm hoping it will be (if it is, those couple of nights sleeping on the couch will be worth it...).
post #1 of 18
3/31/05 at 1:35pm