My wife saw a pair of Green bespoke and loved the antique finish.
Does your wife have an available sister?
How the various custom shoes stack up for me is Lobb/Paris is #1 for exquisite product, materials, finish, fit and form. Â A work of art. Â Fanatical attention to measurements and fittings, performed with a surgical-like exactitude. Â By the end of the fitting, there can be dozens upon dozens of markings. Â Stitching performed with remarkable precision and perfection, especially with hard-to-handle leathers. Clever fitting using an interim plastic prototype/mold of shoe. Â Experimenting with computer-aided development of molds, but not perfected as yet. Â Trouble is, for me they're much too nice to wear. Â Nice, though expensive, eye candy. Â I'll need to get over it. Â The most expensive of the bespoke shoemakers. Edward Green is just below Lobb/Paris by a notch for fit and finish. Â Tony does a careful job of measuring and fitting, however Lobb Paris goes to fanatical extremes in this regard. Stitching performed with great precision; brogueing done with immense artistry. Tony gets high marks for his love of the craft and for reviving great designs of the past, with his own unique imprint interwoven in those designs. Â Third most expensive, after Lobb/St. James's (London) Â Tony is also very easy to work with, and very accessible; answers questions promptly and courteously. Â Lobb/St. James's (I could say London, but St. James's sounds sooo delightfully snooty), in my own experience, falls short in the measuring process, which took rather an abbreviated 5 minutes or so (no fitting), and, consequently, in the fit of the shoes. Â Fitting process is apparently contingent on your fitter, some of whom are more cursory than others. Â Given their steep prices, however, Lobb really should institute a more uniform measuring process so that nobody receives short shrift. Â The attitude at Lobb London is that *they* will ultimately determine if your shoes fit you. Â Or, so it seems. Â Stitching not up to the benchmarks set by Lobb/Paris and Edward Green. Â Where Lobb London distinguishes themselves is in producing the purest traditional English designs. Â Their wholecut shoe is perfect, vis a vis that from Lobb/Paris, which is rather pointy at the toe. Â Lobb/London's William is the only double monk design I like. Â And, be prepared to fork over another $500 for shoe trees. Â Shoe bags and other acoutrements (laces, polish) all cost extra, as well. Â Second most expensive shoes. I give the highest marks, however, to Perry Ercolino for fit and comfort. Â Perry's measuring process exceeds even Lobb/Paris, which itself is impressive and comprehensive. Â Perry is the only shoemaker with whom I have experience who employs physics in his measuring process in determining how one's feet strike the ground. Â He also is the only one who uses the ink procedure, as outlined in the Vass book, to determine arch characteristics. Â Closest comfort level to wearing sneakers. Â Perry is a classically trained shoemaker with an appreciation for both English and Italian designs. Â The most flexible shoemaker in this regard in that he's not beholden to any one design perspective. Â Least expensive shoes of the group, at around $3,000, and fastest turn-around time for US residents. No shoemaker is absolutely perfect, they all have their own strengths, and they all aspire to make you a more soleful individual. Grayson