I read your post with sincere gratitude that you consider me worthy of such a great degree of research. Sarcastic as that may sound, I do mean it.
Before I respond to your issues, allow me to offer a bit of chastisement. Firstly, I appear here under my own name. My e-mail and telephone are available on my website which has appeared in this forum countless times. You, on the other hand, are hiding behind a pseudonym. Although it is obvious to me that you have a close connection to the clothing trade, it may not be so obvious to other members of this forum. Full disclosure is in order. Secondly, you had the extreme discourtesy to publish the telephone number of American Sember. If you are truly as familiar with them as you claim to be, you would be well aware that they are a very small family business, a wholesale operation which has neither the resources, the desire, nor the staff to answer questions from the customers of shirtmakers to whom they sell. You published Nicole's full name as well, implying a connection. Perhaps you might have shown the honesty to add that we have been divorced for more than a decade.
My approach to researching you is no different from anything else I research. Â I am not a journalist, and never looking to sensationalize my findings. Of course your name and telephone number are available - clients and prospective customers need a way to contact you. Â I hide behind a pseudonym, as do countless others. Â As for your statement that I have a close connection to the clothing trade, I have and have never had any connection whatsoever, the same with all my family and friends. This is the internet. Â I prefer, though I am not in any sense a high-profile individual who needs privacy, to remain relatively anonymous. Â Full disclosure is in order, but I have absolutely nothing to disclose. Â If I did I would certainly do so. Â You came onto this board, which I am glad for, and personally posted under your real name, but tell me this: if you posted under homer_simpson would people take you as seriously? Â Is it not a fact that people take much more seriously what they get from "the source," in this case, you? Â I do not need to be taken seriously since I am not in the trade, cite all my sources, and do not have a forum discussing my product without necessarily much firsthand knowledge of your operation. As for listing the number to American Sember, I found it in a book, as others could. Â I have not dealt with(or even called) the people at American Sember. Â All I did was include Ms. Semhon's name as I was told by a custom shirtmaker who referred my friend to American Sember for replacement shirt buttons. Â Was I supposed to know the history of your personal life? Here is the info for another wholesaler who carries many of the same mills' fabrics: Andros Imported Shirtings(Paramus, NJ) 201.262.7500 I have no particular interest in seeing your fusing machine, but maybe others will be interested. Well, would the layman be able to tell a difference between a 200/2 x 200/2 broadcloth and a 200/2 x 240/2 broadcloth? Â How much would you charge for a shirt made of this "special" fabric? Â Maybe you could clarify all that on your web site. Â While it's possible that a mill may have woven such a fabric some time ago, surely they would be able to even today. Â Today no such thing exists; the highest is 200/2 x 200/2. Â I'm sure that many posters on this board are familiar with the best shirt fabric mills. Â The only mills which weave 200/2 x 200/2 are David and John Anderson(trademark of Cotonificio Albini), Alumo, S.I.C. Tess and Carlo Riva.
If you were to go in to a fabric store to purchase 3 yards of 170's which they had purchased from American Sember, you would pay $186.30. I also use many lighter weight Lesser woolens and Dormeuil cashmeres in my shirtmaking. For the most recent two cashmere shirts I made, my cost for the fabric for the two shirts was $3000 ... but these extremes don't appear on my website.
Which retail stores would actually carry such fine fabrics? Â In the same book in which I found American Sember's phone number, it mentioned that American Sember used to have a 10-yard minimum but now just has a 10% surcharge for quantities under 10 yards. Â Any of us could buy from a wholesaler. Â All we have to do is apply for a tax ID from our respective state department of revenue. Â This can be done over then phone in 10 minutes. Â You base your claims of your costs on what someone would
pay at a retail store. Â You probably do not buy from a retail store. Â As for cashmere costing what you quote, many members of this forum probably know that it costs far, far less than what you claim. Â If the cashmere cost $3000 I suppose you charged $10000 for the shirts? Â Must your woolen and cashmere shirts be dry cleaned? Yeah, but who cleans your $750 dress shirt?
Humor? What humor? You want it, I'll make it. I love a challenge. Besides, a good stock bullet-resistant vest goes for $7-800. Just think of what I could charge for a custom-made fireproof one. Since the impression you seem to have of me is as a charlatan and a rip-off, maybe I should forget about Swiss cotton and go into something really profitable like this.
Precisely. Â I like that attitude of yours, that you like a challenge. Â That was what I was referring to in my earlier post. Â I am not
looking to portray you as a charlatan and a rip-off, just to clarify a few questions.
I spent a great deal of time today writing that - and there's still quite a way to go. For some reason, however, I have begun to feel that there are two distinct types of members here. There are those with an honest quest for additional knowledge regarding an arena in which they have great interest. I have great admiration for that Then there are others, a category into which I believe you fall and where I know Marc39 and Cityslicker do, who have a couple of less worthy goals. You seem quite interested in picking makers apart - towards what end I certainly cannot gather - and in showing how much you know similarly to the strut of a peacock.
Hardly true - were not most of my questions based on material which I largely found on your own web site? Â My objective is not
to "show how much" I know "similarly to the strut of a peacock." Â People wondered if your shirts are worth the money - that is up to the individual, and my questions were simply meant to gather information to help some of us decide if they are.
Attention Members: I am now going to take the sage advice I've been given by a few of you and ignore any further flamebait. My next post, hopefully before the weekend is out, will be the promised synopsis of shirtmaking. Have a wonderful Christmas, Hannukka, and/or Kwaanza and, again, thank you for your interest in my craft.
What I wrote was hardly meant as flamebait. Â Did I call you names? Â Was my sole intent to insult your business? Â I hope that it does not seem to be so. Anyway, Merry Christmas/ Hanukkah /Kwaanza everyone.