Originally Posted by voxsartoria
1. Yes, there is drape in the chest.
2. No, this is not a Drape Cut.
The former refers to a stylistic aspect where there is more cloth of varying degrees at the armscye, chest and back. There are several current bespoke makers who do this. Examples include Anderson & Sheppard and Rubinacci. You are looking at a bespoke Rubinacci suit above.
The latter is a specific style of tailoring, encompassing the entire look of jacket and trousers, that makes use of item one but also has other important and distinctive features. Frederick Scholte is the person most closely associated in history with this style. While it is not produced by anyone today except as costume, it influences tailoring that both incorporates drape and also tailoring that does not.
Very helpful. The only meaning of the word "drape" of which I was aware was #1. I was not aware that originally there was a full drape style, now defunct, of which #1 is a (the sole?) remaining relic.
I have done a quick google search on Scholte and the original full drape style, to no avail. People like Bruce Boyer seem to think that what Alan Flusser does today is exactly the same thing as the full drape (#2) that you describe as mostly phased out. Do you know of a good photo of the full drape style from the old days, or if not a photo at least a description of the other features that haven't survived as well as the airy, deconstructed-looking jacket?